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replacing maliview screen


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Under the dash on either side of the steering wheel you should see 2x 1/4" 20 bolts with nuts and washers that hold the bottom of the Malivue cluster to the lower dash pad. Looking at the cluster, center mass, inside on the upper lip of the cluster will be a Phillips head screw, screwed to the upper dash pad.  Remove those 3 fasteners and the only thing left connected will be the 4 plug ins for the: tach, speedo, left and right bank push button connectors and the blue Malivue video cable (screwed in). You will probably have a loose cable for a chart plotter floating around behind there also, at least I did on my '10. Now for the fun part! The dash was assembled before installation so the fit is going to be tight for removal and installation, with removal being a lot easier. You will have to slightly lift the upper dash pad and roll the top of the cluster towards you and lift out once the upper part of the cluster clears the upper dash pad. Be extremely careful of the 2 lower 1/4" x 20 bolts. They are epoxied to the bottom of the cluster and can potentially break off and they will gouge the heck out of anything upholstered if not capped or taped. Reassembly is in the reverse order and as I recall the cables were specific to their location and marked accordingly. I had to fix one of the lower bolts a couple years back so I know the pain! Shoot me a PM if you wan to talk more details. Bill

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Hi Bill

all sorted on the 2013 vtx you have to remove the top screen and go in to the side screens from there this is the only way in. so they are very year and model specific on how you get to these screens.

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WDR how did you fix the bolt that was epoxied to the dash?  Mine came out of the plastic and need to fix as well.  I took out the two bolts and top screw and still can’t seem to get the dash out?  

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The upper dash pad first. Mine was a 2010 LSV so construction methods may differ between MY and models. In both front corners of the upper dash pad there was an inaccessible screw that holds the upper dash pad to the lower dash pad. Both corners are blocked by the actual fiberglass helm base. I estimated about where the screws were located on the lower pad and drilled a 3/4” hole through the fiberglass helm base under where I estimated the screws to be. I guessed well so I had access to them with a foot long 1/4” drive extension and Phillips head bit. The back of the upper pad had a metal bar connecting the back of the pad to the lower pad. I knew all of this before hand because both bezel screws were broken off, so with a little upward force I could roll the bezel out. Replacing the bolts in the bezel, I referenced the original bolt locations with a Sharpee and used a Dremel tool to clean an area about twice the size of the original epoxy area ensuring to remove the old epoxy. I also scored the new area really well to get good adhesion with the new epoxy. Mix up a batch of JB Weld quick set and put everything in place. Make sure the screws are more or less vertical to the bezel so they will line up with the holes. To reinstall I used 2 rubber grommets that I had between the bezel and the lower dash pad so I could create a good base to isolate movement so I didn’t have to crank down so hard like the original and rip out my new fix. Never a problem afterwards. Like great body work, the prep is the most important part of the job. Good luck. Bill

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