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A Hole-in-Hose


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I had to make that dreadful decision once again as the water started gushing in.

I was bobbing in the water cooling off and having a brew when I noticed my bilge pump was running. This is not unusual as we often take on a roller or two over the nose while picking up a downed skier. The pump ran for about five minutes, shut off for one and then started again...WTF?? I crawled back in and lifted the motor cover to find a one inch tear in the rubber exhaust tube as it drops from the manifold, bends at the deck and heads for the muffler. The tear was below the water line so it leaked pretty good while the boat was anchored in the cove.

When the crew was back in we fired the BU up and started heading back to our dock...we were really taking on water now. I guess the thrust from the mighty Monsoon ripped the hose some more and was filling the bilge with water. I made the call, turned and headed for the Marina...After we got the boat on a trailer we found the hose had cracked almost in half.

Do you think some duct tape would fix it? :lol:

Are these exhaust tubes Malibu specific or do I just cut to lenght?

Do I have to remove the rear seat, gas tank etc. from my 96 RLX to get at the connections?

Any handy tips before I dig into this next weekend?

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After you fix it. Put in a full port ball valve at your fresh water intake. I just did one on mine this past winter expecting a situation like yours to happen to me cause hoses get old.

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Couple of year ago I blew the Lower recirculate pump hose. I didn't have a clue until I slowed for another boats wake. Water came rushing out from under the engine cover!!! Shocking.gif

I thought I was going down. When I realized what had happened I taped the hose with a roll of electrical tape and idled for a ways but it didn't hold, the split was too large. We ended up getting towed in.

I replaced every hose on the boat after that.

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I believe the stuff comes in 4' lengths. It's available at most marine suppliers. Good thing oyu caught it. If you moor your boat, it might of sunk.

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Do you think some duct tape would fix it? --- Use Gorilla duct tape, that stuff is strong.

Are these exhaust tubes Malibu specific or do I just cut to lenght?--- You can buy it by the foot.

Do I have to remove the rear seat, gas tank etc. from my 96 RLX to get at the connections?--- I was able to get to the clamps on our 00 RLX, (with the rear truck).

Any handy tips before I dig into this next weekend?--- Put in a full port ball valve at your fresh water intake like Pete said and do a good check on all the other hoses.

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Do you think some duct tape would fix it? :lol:
No, but radiator hose tape would have...available at AutoZone, Kragen,...wouldn't be a permanent fix but could get you back to the dock.
After you fix it. Put in a full port ball valve at your fresh water intake. I just did one on mine this past winter expecting a situation like yours to happen to me cause hoses get old.
Just for clarity...the ball valve would not have helped with your situation. The water coming in was coming in through the exhaust ports on the transom which are under water when anchored. That said, I put an intake valve and an intake strainer on my Sporty. Edited by NorCaliBu
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I just looked on skidim to see if they sold what I needed and I have narrowed it down to two items:

It could be Item 12605 (3.5") or Item 91405 (3")

Does anyone know the diameter of the exhaust systems on the Monsoon 320HP? My boat is still at the lakehouse so I can't confirm the diameter until this weekend.

I also could use a general idea of how long the hose should be. This stuff is sold by the foot.

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I just looked on skidim to see if they sold what I needed and I have narrowed it down to two items:

It could be Item 12605 (3.5") or Item 91405 (3")

Does anyone know the diameter of the exhaust systems on the Monsoon 320HP? My boat is still at the lakehouse so I can't confirm the diameter until this weekend.

I also could use a general idea of how long the hose should be. This stuff is sold by the foot.

Give the guys at Discount Inboard Marina a call. They should be able to tell you what you need. I called them for a raw water pump part for my brothers Mastercraft. They were very good on the phone, gave me the exact part Number off the top of their head. I talked with Richard. 1-803-345-0996.

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I got a reply from SkiDim. They said that the exhaust hose is 3.5" inside diameter but did not know how long it should be so I took the drive to the lakehouse and measured for myself.

Indeed it is 3.5" inside Diameter and the hose is at least 3'-2" (That is where the end of the tape measure bottoms out on something. I am assuming it is the muffler. I am not sure because it disappears under the floor and rear seat

This job looks like it will require a complete disassembly of the rear of the boat. Remove seat back, remove seat bottom, remove gas tank, engine cover, floor boards...can anyone confirm this?

Edited by MoonDawg
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if you have a serious leak remove the rear bung then drive on. the water drains out the bung hole as it's above water level when fast planing.

get it on the trailer quick once stationary though !

this is trick that does actually work, I've met river jet boaters who have had holes in their alloy hulls (not easy when it's 10mm thick) and have done this. they generally have two bildges fitted too

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I'd be buying 5' of it just to be safe.

I bought 10 foot just to be doubly safe Biggrin.gif Not wanting to tear the whole backend of the boat apart again next year; I thought I would go ahead and replace the other side even though it is not leaking.

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I'd be buying 5' of it just to be safe.

I bought 10 foot just to be doubly safe Biggrin.gifNot wanting to tear the whole backend of the boat apart again next year; I thought I would go ahead and replace the other side even though it is not leaking.

Smart man.

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Thanks to SkiDim.com and UPS I now have new exhaust hoses. Biggrin.gif

I fired the Bu up to hear that Mighty Monsoon Roar and Argh!!! Now my fuel pump is leaking...Am I ever going to have a season this year? Cry.gif

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I'd be buying 5' of it just to be safe.

I bought 10 foot just to be doubly safe Biggrin.gif Not wanting to tear the whole backend of the boat apart again next year; I thought I would go ahead and replace the other side even though it is not leaking.

Doug would have bought 20 feet and replace both hoses twice. :lol:

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if you have a serious leak remove the rear bung then drive on. the water drains out the bung hole as it's above water level when fast planing.

get it on the trailer quick once stationary though !

this is trick that does actually work, I've met river jet boaters who have had holes in their alloy hulls (not easy when it's 10mm thick) and have done this. they generally have two bildges fitted too

This sounds like a question for Myth Busters. I love that show.

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Doug would have bought 20 feet and replace both hoses twice. :lol:

Probably right. But then Doug wouldn't have been caught with his pants down when this problem first occurred. He would have had an extra pair of pantyhose, toothpicks, a light bulb, a library card, and some bubble gum that he would have fashioned into a spare exhaust hose right then and there. Biggrin.gif

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Thanks to No Wake Marine I am back on the water for the weekend! Yahoo.gif

No Wake had my fuel pump in stock so I did not have to wait for shipping from SkiDim. It was competitively priced as well...I love how that works out sometimes.

The exhaust hose installation turned out not to be that big of a deal, my Dad was in town so I let him do most of the work and I just took pictures. Biggrin.gif The whole job took about an hour.

I did have to bring in the heavy tools to gain the advantage. After 10 years those flexible hoses were not so flexible and had baked on to the manifolds and mufflers.

http://www.geocities.com/gscurtis/hose016.jpg

Malibu laid out the interior of the Response LX for easy access. I removed the engine cover by removing the screws to the hinges and supports. The drill with a Phillips screw bit made quick work of that even though I found that I had removed more screws than necessary. I could have gotten by removing only the six screws on the outside hinge flap and the 4 screws that hold the supports to the engine cover.

http://www.geocities.com/gscurtis/hose003.jpg

Then we took the Saws-All to the hose, cut it in half and then used the nail nippers to cut the wire inside the hose.

http://www.geocities.com/gscurtis/hose012.jpg

Then we pried the hose from the manifold using a large screw driver as a pry bar. It didn't work quickly enough so I also used the nail nippers to cut the hose where the pry bar had lifted the hose off the manifold. After a few inches of cutting, the hose broke free of the manifold.

http://www.geocities.com/gscurtis/hose014.jpg

We twisted the remaining foot of hose attached to the muffler back and forth until it broke free of the muffler flange.

http://www.geocities.com/gscurtis/hose013.jpg

Here are the two bad boys! They are 27-1/4" long so all I really needed was 5 foot of hose.

hose017.jpg

I will use the remaining 5 foot when I replace the hose from the muffler to the exhaust tips. I did not want to tackle that job until the gas tank is empty. From the looks of it I will have to remove the tank.

hose007.jpg

Here is a picture of the hole-in-hose. It was at the sharp bend just before the muffler. It was a pretty major leak!

hose018.jpg

Edit: I guess I can only post 3 pics per reply...

TIP: I put silicone grease on the manifold and muffler flanges before I installed the new hoses...they slipped on without a hitch.

Edited by MoonDawg
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Nice work. I wonder if you really need to replace the hoses from the mufflers to the exhaust ports on the hull. The hoses that failed did so at the sharp bend (fairly common). The hoses that exit the mufflers should be fairly straight with no sharp bends. They are probably in much better shape.

I do understand you just wanting to be cautious. Just something to think about.

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I am planning on removing the fuel tank and changing all the fuel hoses at the same time that I change the exhaust hoses. I might even put a new sending unit in the fuel tank while I am at it.

It just depends on how much free time I have this winter. With a snow ski season like last year... I should be able to get in a lot of work.

My trailer could use some work as well. New brakes..maybe a pivoting hitch. I got a new MIG welder that I am itching to try out and the hitch would be a good project.

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TIP: I put silicone grease on the manifold and muffler flanges before I installed the new hoses...they slipped on without a hitch.

See, and I thought he was going to say he lubed up the muffler bearings while he was at it. . .

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I am planning on removing the fuel tank and changing all the fuel hoses at the same time that I change the exhaust hoses. I might even put a new sending unit in the fuel tank while I am at it.

It just depends on how much free time I have this winter. With a snow ski season like last year... I should be able to get in a lot of work.

My trailer could use some work as well. New brakes..maybe a pivoting hitch. I got a new MIG welder that I am itching to try out and the hitch would be a good project.

What brand of welder did you buy?

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TIP: I put silicone grease on the manifold and muffler flanges before I installed the new hoses...they slipped on without a hitch.

See, and I thought he was going to say he lubed up the muffler bearings while he was at it. . .

C'mon Jack, everyone knows the muffler bearings have nothing to do with the exhaust mufflers...

Edited by SunriseH2OSkier
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....My trailer could use some work as well. New brakes..maybe a pivoting hitch. I got a new MIG welder that I am itching to try out and the hitch would be a good project.

What brand of welder did you buy?

I got a New Lincoln SP-175 Plus with cart and Argon gas Cyl for $700 off of eBay. The catch was I had to drive to Pittsburg to pick it up.

I needed it to weld the new floor panels into my Project Ghia. That project might start any day. We are finally close to finishing my son's Dodge Stealth and the new Boat Dock.

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