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Using a remote battery disconnect switch for stereo?


r33pwrd

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37 minutes ago, minnmarker said:

Forgive me if I'm missing something, but you can do this with a simple dash switch line to your low amp draw devices (ZLD and media  center) and the amp remote-on inputs.  There's really no reason to totally disconnect the amp power lines from the battery every time you leave the boat.  There should be fuses in those lines but you don't need switches, solenoids, etc.  Bonus with an ACR is that if you do leave the switch on, and the amps do drain the stereo battery, the boat battery does not get drained and will still run your bilge pump.

Yes I think it's that simple.. I just want to make sure I'm doing all the routing correctly (if you see my last drawing I show a switch in line to power to the zld , ect that would be on dash) as far as draining the battery I think if the perko is on 1+2 it will still drain both batteries even with the ACR installed)

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19 minutes ago, r33pwrd said:

Yes I think it's that simple.. I just want to make sure I'm doing all the routing correctly (if you see my last drawing I show a switch in line to power to the zld , ect that would be on dash) as far as draining the battery I think if the perko is on 1+2 it will still drain both batteries even with the ACR installed)

Just take the perko completely out of the setup - or, if you really want to use it place it between the boat battery and the boat (downstream from the bilge pump line) and disconnect it from the stereo battery.  The positive lines from the two batteries should only meet (electrically) at the ACR.  By running both into the perko you are combining batteries, not separating them.  If you really want a total disconnect switch, Blue Sea makes one that is part of this kit: https://www.bluesea.com/products/7650/Add-A-Battery_Kit_-_120A  It will disconnect both sides from their respective batteries but will only connect the two sides when you choose the emergency "combine" position.  Run your cursor over the different options above the diagram.  In any case, ditch the perko switch.  Follow the diagram on the link.

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1 hour ago, minnmarker said:

Bonus with an ACR is that if you do leave the switch on, and the amps do drain the stereo battery, the boat battery does not get drained and will still run your bilge pump.

Except for the switch that wont be used at the end of the day, is left in the 1+2 position. Any draw on one battery, draws from both, circumventing the ACR, right? 

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6 minutes ago, MLA said:

Except for the switch that wont be used at the end of the day, is left in the 1+2 position. Any draw on one battery, draws from both, circumventing the ACR, right? 

To my mind the way to wire up the acr and the perko is to always run on either 1 or 2.  That way when the boat is off only the battery that the perko is turned to is being used.  It basically results in having an "everything" battery and a "reserve" battery rather than a "boat" battery and a "stereo" battery.  'spose you could just vary from trip to trip which battery you use (1 or 2) to keep the load on each battery relatively similar over the long haul.

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54 minutes ago, minnmarker said:

Just take the perko completely out of the setup - or, if you really want to use it place it between the boat battery and the boat (downstream from the bilge pump line) and disconnect it from the stereo battery.  The positive lines from the two batteries should only meet (electrically) at the ACR.  By running both into the perko you are combining batteries, not separating them.  If you really want a total disconnect switch, Blue Sea makes one that is part of this kit: https://www.bluesea.com/products/7650/Add-A-Battery_Kit_-_120A  It will disconnect both sides from their respective batteries but will only connect the two sides when you choose the emergency "combine" position.  Run your cursor over the different options above the diagram.  In any case, ditch the perko switch.  Follow the diagram on the link.

Or could I not take one battery away from the perko switch like this? This would assure I always have a good battery to start with correct? (like this I would just not use the #2 spot on the perko... thanks again guys for all your help.  Hopefully this thread will help others as well.

stereo4_zpswyhdxk1y.jpg

 

 

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1 hour ago, MLA said:

Except for the switch that wont be used at the end of the day, is left in the 1+2 position. Any draw on one battery, draws from both, circumventing the ACR, right? 

Yes, that's why I suggested he not connect the perko to both batteries.  Better yet, just leave the perko out of the setup completely.

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32 minutes ago, r33pwrd said:

Or could I not take one battery away from the perko switch like this? This would assure I always have a good battery to start with correct? (like this I would just not use the #2 spot on the perko... thanks again guys for all your help.  Hopefully this thread will help others as well.

stereo4_zpswyhdxk1y.jpg

 

 

Yes, that should work perfectly.  Just add some fuses and you're all set.  If you do end up floating around with the engine off listening to tunes then you may want to add a charger.

Edited by minnmarker
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4 hours ago, shawndoggy said:

 'spose you could just vary from trip to trip which battery you use (1 or 2)

At this point, then why not just turn it to OFF? 

Im seeing non-issue being invented by unconventional ways of using switches and solenoids, then complex "fixes" to fix those non-issues. 

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Just now, MLA said:

At this point, then why not just turn it to OFF? 

Im seeing non-issue being invented by unconventional ways of using switches and solenoids, then complex "fixes" to fix those non-issues. 

In the diagram I was referencing, one battery would have primary duty for everything, the other would only be "on the system" when the acr was closed.  Essentially a backup battery.  But if you varied at the switch which battery the switch was pointing to (1 or 2) you could change that around from trip to trip, with the relay still opening and keeping one battery in reserve when the engine isn't running.

I mean I don't think the boat would perform very well with the switch OFF, but would probably perform adequately if battery 1 was primary on one trip and battery 2 was primary on the next trip.

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3 hours ago, r33pwrd said:

This would assure I always have a good battery to start with correct?

Nope, not at all. There is no guarantee that a boat electronic would not run down the cranking battery with the boat at rest or put away. At this point, you are dead in the water. However, you got tunes.........for a little while.

The 2nd issue is that if you do drop anchor and play tunes until the house bank is very low, then upon restarting the engine, the low house bank can cause the ACR to bounce open and closed, until the house bank finally recovers somewhat. This might mean no tunes for an hour or better. Having that manual switch can give you a work around.  

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1 hour ago, r33pwrd said:

Thanks I do have the factory installed charger but have never used it.

you will likely want to consider making use of it with this new build. However, if its a dual bank smart charger. like S-Dowg explained, your current switch and an ACR scenario would not make the best use of a dual bank charger.

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1 hour ago, shawndoggy said:

charger won't independently charge batteries with that acr setup unless you put the acr ground on a relay that only grounds when perko switched to on.  Not hard but...

I have one boat set up with the ACR ground on a "normally closed" relay that opens when a shore charger is plugged in so the ACR does not close - and one with the ground always connected so the ACR closes when the shore charger is plugged in.  Kind of an experiment.  So far (1 year) I have not noticed any difference in charge state (all batts have volt meters) or cranking ability between the two set ups.  Both have a single bank charger on the stereo battery, and the alternator charging the boat battery.  Even with a discharged stereo battery, when the ACR closes under charge the voltage differntial between the two batteries is minimal and there is not a large current flow.  Tested this by putting a 10 amp fuse at the ACR.  I like to live on the edge :lol:

Edited by minnmarker
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10 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

In the diagram I was referencing, one battery would have primary duty for everything, the other would only be "on the system" when the acr was closed.  Essentially a backup battery.  But if you varied at the switch which battery the switch was pointing to (1 or 2) you could change that around from trip to trip, with the relay still opening and keeping one battery in reserve when the engine isn't running.

I mean I don't think the boat would perform very well with the switch OFF, but would probably perform adequately if battery 1 was primary on one trip and battery 2 was primary on the next trip.

im not talking about the boat performing with the switch off but turning the switch off when the boat is put away. Im talking about the OP not wanting to use the switch, period! He wants to just leave it on. if you are wanting him to check it from trip to trip, why not just turn it off, since he's in there "checking" it. 

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Just now, MLA said:

im not talking about the boat performing with the switch off but turning the switch off when the boat is put away. Im talking about the OP not wanting to use the switch, period! He wants to just leave it on. if you are wanting him to check it from trip to trip, why not just turn it off, since he's in there "checking" it. 

My theory would be that after day on the water, switch goes to off.  Next day on the water turn switch to "1", then after day on the water, turn switch to off.  The day on the water after that, turn the switch to "2" and then to off when day is over.

You do still get the benefit of combining batteries when alternator is running and separating when boat is off, and you (manually) equalize the load on the batteries from trip to trip.

Makes sense to me.

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Quote

 when we leave the boat on the dock I usually don't turn the power off to the boat and this would allow me to shut the stereo all the way off without having to open the hatch and manually turn the factory perko switch. 

Quote

My theory would be that after day on the water, switch goes to off.

Based on the OP's own statement, he want to not use the switch, just leave it. Thats what im getting at. 

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I use the switch but only when the boat is not being used daily.. we do 10 day trips and use the boat 8 hours a day and I usually don't turn it off but the second it hits the trailer I turn it off.

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1 minute ago, r33pwrd said:

I use the switch but only when the boat is not being used daily.. we do 10 day trips and use the boat 8 hours a day and I usually don't turn it off but the second it hits the trailer I turn it off.

Then you are trying to fix a non issue. A properly wired helm rocker will power down the EQ, media source and amps for the night. Once the "trip" is over, turn the main battery switch off. I like using ACR's, but I would suggest swapping the 4 positing 3 post Perko brand for the 3 position 4 post Blue Sea Dual Circuit Plus switch. its passive/manual setup. 99 of a 100 times out, you only need to turn the switch ON when you launch and OFF when you trailer.  

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30 minutes ago, r33pwrd said:

Thanks guys.  I will be up at Blue sea next week and grab one.  Really it looks like that is more or less a double pole switch? 

Yes. One turn of the switch turns two circuits on. Cranking battery connects to the main boat loads and house battery connects to house loads like audio and lighting, etc. Those loads stay isolated from each other, only drawing from their respective battery, yet both banks receive a charge from the alternator while engine running. COMBINE allows for an emergency start option if there is an issue with cranking bank.   

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34 minutes ago, MLA said:

Yes. One turn of the switch turns two circuits on. Cranking battery connects to the main boat loads and house battery connects to house loads like audio and lighting, etc. Those loads stay isolated from each other, only drawing from their respective battery, yet both banks receive a charge from the alternator while engine running. COMBINE allows for an emergency start option if there is an issue with cranking bank.   

This isn't exactly accurate but probably close enough.  The Blue Sea ACR isn't smart enough to keep the batteries isolated from one another under all conditions.  When an input of greater than 13v (IIRC) is sensed the ACR will close and the two banks will be combined (via the ACR) and will be "one big battery" under those conditions. When voltage drops below 13v the relay opens and the batteries are isolated.  But there's no restriction via the ACR which way the current can travel when it's closed.

There are actual battery isolators out there that do truly isolate batteries from one another under all conditions, but the blue sea solution isn't one of them.  This is an isolator: http://www.promariner.com/en/01-70-2

Edited by shawndoggy
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