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r33pwrd

Using a remote battery disconnect switch for stereo?

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r33pwrd

I am redoing the wiring on my boat stereo and I would like to totally isolate it from the rest of the boats electrical system (reduce chance of noise as well as the ability to run it with the rest of the boat completely off)  has anyone run one of these? http://www.jegs.com/p/Painless-Performance-Products/Painless-Remote-Master-Battery-Disconnect-Switches/2828584/10002/-1  was thinking I would wire it off my perko switch and ALL of my stereo gear would be fed by it (AMP's, ZLD, Power for remote turn on (I don't run a deck), ect).

Thoughts or feedback? Thank you Brad

 

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minnmarker

Just get one of these.  Much easier and simpler way to separate stereo and "boat" loads.  Lots of them on TMC and other boats.  Segregation is a great (and common) idea but no need to disconnect  your amps from the battery all the time.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7610/SI-ACR_Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12_24V_DC_120A

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shawndoggy

That's really expensive for what it is.  

How big is your stereo?  I have one of those solenoids in my spares box (just a basic ford starter solenoid, not one with fancy plastic shroud or go-fast looking stickers on it), and probably the ring terminals and the switch too.  I'd make you a great TMC bro deal on a kit.

I don't really see how adding one more gadget in the electrical path would do anything to reduce noise tho.  

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MLA
2 hours ago, r33pwrd said:

was thinking I would wire it off my perko switch and ALL of my stereo gear would be fed by it

How? Its not a battery source. How is it going to feed anything? If you open it, the stereo shuts off. if the solenoid is closed, nothing is isolated any more than it would be, without that solenoid. 

If you put a solenoid like that between the main battery switch and a batter, you run the risk of burning the alternator if the solenoid opened with the switch turned to that battery. 

I understand what you are after, but IMO, this is not the best way to get there. A solenoid like that, only offers isolation when its open/off. What about when its closed, how are you going to deal with it then? In most cases, preventing noise is about how the entire system is wired, the stereo doesnt have to be isolated in its own dedicated battery. I dont see anything here that would prevent you from running the stereo with the boat off............no need for some elaborate wiring scheme and solenoid. 

Why ditch the head unit? Its the Sony 910Ui, right? Solid head unit, ive run one for about 4 years now. USB for Ipod or thumb and will charge. Rear AUX for a universal blue tooth. Run the front RCA outputs to your EQ. 

 

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r33pwrd
4 hours ago, minnmarker said:

Just get one of these.  Much easier and simpler way to separate stereo and "boat" loads.  Lots of them on TMC and other boats.  Segregation is a great (and common) idea but no need to disconnect  your amps from the battery all the time.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7610/SI-ACR_Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12_24V_DC_120A

that does not accomplish what I want.. but maybe it should also be used?

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r33pwrd
4 hours ago, shawndoggy said:

That's really expensive for what it is.  

How big is your stereo?  I have one of those solenoids in my spares box (just a basic ford starter solenoid, not one with fancy plastic shroud or go-fast looking stickers on it), and probably the ring terminals and the switch too.  I'd make you a great TMC bro deal on a kit.

I don't really see how adding one more gadget in the electrical path would do anything to reduce noise tho.  

It was just an example I realize there are much cheaper options...  My AMPS are 1 Sinister 6 and 2 Sinister 2's.

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r33pwrd
1 hour ago, MLA said:

How? Its not a battery source. How is it going to feed anything? If you open it, the stereo shuts off. if the solenoid is closed, nothing is isolated any more than it would be, without that solenoid. 

If you put a solenoid like that between the main battery switch and a batter, you run the risk of burning the alternator if the solenoid opened with the switch turned to that battery. 

I understand what you are after, but IMO, this is not the best way to get there. A solenoid like that, only offers isolation when its open/off. What about when its closed, how are you going to deal with it then? In most cases, preventing noise is about how the entire system is wired, the stereo doesnt have to be isolated in its own dedicated battery. I dont see anything here that would prevent you from running the stereo with the boat off............no need for some elaborate wiring scheme and solenoid. 

Why ditch the head unit? Its the Sony 910Ui, right? Solid head unit, ive run one for about 4 years now. USB for Ipod or thumb and will charge. Rear AUX for a universal blue tooth. Run the front RCA outputs to your EQ. 

 

yes you are correct...  after thinking about it is no more isolated then wiring amps and accessories directs to perko switch.  The main thing I want to accomplish is being able to have a switch on the dash I can shut the whole stereo down with, when we leave the boat on the dock I usually don't turn the power off to the boat and this would allow me to shut the stereo all the way off without having to open the hatch and manually turn the factory perko switch.  As far as the deck I have never used it as I only use Bluetooth and I would like to mount my ZLD in the space that the deck is currently at so its not below the dash area any more.

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r33pwrd

The downside of my setup (using a zld as a head unit) is there is no "OFF" like the deck has... I have thought of adding a toggle on the remote wires but in theory my ZLD and  digital media center would still be "ON"

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r33pwrd

 this is what I was thinking (but adding the switch between the perko and everything else) Again open to better idea but this gives you an idea of what I'm trying to accomplish (I think)

 

Sorry cant get it to post a picture on here so here is a link...

http://s258.photobucket.com/user/r33pwrd/media/Boatwiring_zpssrbpatzf.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

Edited by r33pwrd
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minnmarker

What are you trying to accomplish? Most installs have a 2 battery setup with one for the stereo and one for the rest of the boat separated by a switch or ACR. Put a switch on the dash powered from the stereo battery and run the switch leg to your sources, eq, and amp remote ons. If you use an ACR it automatically isolates the stereo from the boat battery so you don't risk getting stuck without starting power. All you need to do to shut everything down is turn off the switch.

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r33pwrd
1 hour ago, minnmarker said:

What are you trying to accomplish? Most installs have a 2 battery setup with one for the stereo and one for the rest of the boat separated by a switch or ACR. Put a switch on the dash powered from the stereo battery and run the switch leg to your sources, eq, and amp remote ons. If you use an ACR it automatically isolates the stereo from the boat battery so you don't risk getting stuck without starting power. All you need to do to shut everything down is turn off the switch.

See my post 3 up.  I do have dual batteries on a 3 position perko switch.

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minnmarker
10 hours ago, r33pwrd said:

See my post 3 up.  I do have dual batteries on a 3 position perko switch.

You can do what you want without the perko and never have to raise the hatch. Simple ACR setup, with dash switch for whole stereo system. Add a one or two bank charger and you're all set. See the schematic on the link above. It's a standard and popular setup.

Edited by minnmarker

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r33pwrd
2 hours ago, minnmarker said:

You can do what you want without the perko and never have to raise the hatch. Simple ACR setup, with dash switch for whole stereo system. Add a one or two bank charger and you're all set. See the schematic on the link above. It's a standard and popular setup.

Okay thank you.  So please help me understand something with the ACR switch.  I understand what it does but in theory if I have my Perko switch to 1+2 is it not doing the same thing? Or you saying I should run my perko switch on 1 and wire the stereo to battery 2 and leave perko switch on position 1 with the ACR installed?

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r33pwrd

And thanks again for all the help..

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minnmarker
1 hour ago, r33pwrd said:

Okay thank you.  So please help me understand something with the ACR switch.  I understand what it does but in theory if I have my Perko switch to 1+2 is it not doing the same thing? Or you saying I should run my perko switch on 1 and wire the stereo to battery 2 and leave perko switch on position 1 with the ACR installed?

Yes but your Perko switch does not automatically disconnect the two batteries when the stereo battery is being drained. If you really want to use a Perko switch you could put it between your boat battery and the boat load. ACR  just goes between the positive terminals of the two batteries. Its purpose is to combine the batteries only when one is being charged. This prevents you from draining your boat battery when you're hanging out listening to the stereo with the engine off.

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isellacuras

I mounted my exile zld where my head unit goes (different boat, 2012 VLX) and used one of these push button power button to power on my  system, including my zld. Its hooked to my perko so I have to have my batteries turned on but not the boat.  I made a plate that is the size of the factory head unit and mounted the zld and power button on the plate so its all right there.  doesn't solve your isolation concern but it is an option for power for your "not a head unit".  sorry, no pictures with me.

https://www.amazon.com/Splash-Resistant-Button-Momentary-Normally/dp/B01I3Y5M4I/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1480797703&sr=8-12&keywords=12v+power+button

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isellacuras

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r33pwrd

Thanks guys.  The reality is we don't run the stereo with the boat off for more then a few minutes at a time so the acr is probablynot needed by the I'll do it anyways just in case.  Thanks

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r33pwrd
5 hours ago, isellacuras said:

I mounted my exile zld where my head unit goes (different boat, 2012 VLX) and used one of these push button power button to power on my  system, including my zld. Its hooked to my perko so I have to have my batteries turned on but not the boat.  I made a plate that is the size of the factory head unit and mounted the zld and power button on the plate so its all right there.  doesn't solve your isolation concern but it is an option for power for your "not a head unit".  sorry, no pictures with me.

https://www.amazon.com/Splash-Resistant-Button-Momentary-Normally/dp/B01I3Y5M4I/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1480797703&sr=8-12&keywords=12v+power+button

Yea I will do the same.. is this just powering your zld or the remote turn ons for the amps as well?

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isellacuras
1 hour ago, r33pwrd said:

Yea I will do the same.. is this just powering your zld or the remote turn ons for the amps as well?

Amps and zld on same remote circuit.

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r33pwrd

Guys hopefully my last time asking about this (sorry I just want to do this one time) I drew up my wiring, is this correct? If I understand everything I would do it like this and leave the perko on #1 all the time (or OFF)

Thank you again! Brad

stereowiring2_zps57eppi90.jpg?t=14808709

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shawndoggy

I would move the amp main power to the perko common post too, not the Battery #2 positive battery post.

Also it should operate the same way whether the perko is switched to 1 or 2... either way the acr will combine when running and separate when off.

Edited by shawndoggy

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r33pwrd
9 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

I would move the amp main power to the perko common post too, not the Battery #2 positive battery post.

Also it should operate the same way whether the perko is switched to 1 or 2... either way the acr will combine when running and separate when off.

Okay so like this? So you are saying I should run perko in 1 or 2 but not 1+2? Sorry just trying to fully understand this :) Thank you  

 

stereo3_zps0zh8pbrh.jpg?t=1480872674

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MLA
On 12/2/2016 at 8:12 PM, r33pwrd said:

The main thing I want to accomplish is being able to have a switch on the dash I can shut the whole stereo down with, when we leave the boat on the dock I usually don't turn the power off to the boat and this would allow me to shut the stereo all the way off without having to open the hatch and manually turn the factory perko switch. 

I understand what you are after. I would suggest using the main battery switch or get a remote controlled main battery switch that would disconnect the batteries from ALL loads, not just the stereo. I have some concerns about using a mechanical relay on the B+ between a battery and the audio. You yourself brought up noise.

On 12/2/2016 at 8:15 PM, r33pwrd said:

 

The downside of my setup (using a zld as a head unit) is there is no "OFF" like the deck has... I have thought of adding a toggle on the remote wires but in theory my ZLD and  digital media center would still be "ON"

 

Wired correctly, the EQ and media source may still have B+, but will be off.

 

On 12/3/2016 at 1:46 PM, r33pwrd said:

So please help me understand something with the ACR switch.  I understand what it does but in theory if I have my Perko switch to 1+2 is it not doing the same thing?

IMO, you need to apply the breaks on this ACR and these schematics. If your goal is to NOT use the main battery switch as a master OFF, then the ACR route is not much different than the use of the relay solenoid. 2nd, the switch you currently have, is less than ideal for implementing an ACR. 

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minnmarker
On 12/2/2016 at 7:12 PM, r33pwrd said:

The main thing I want to accomplish is being able to have a switch on the dash I can shut the whole stereo down with, when we leave the boat on the dock I usually don't turn the power off to the boat and this would allow me to shut the stereo all the way off without having to open the hatch and manually turn the factory perko switch.  As far as the deck I have never used it as I only use Bluetooth and I would like to mount my ZLD in the space that the deck is currently at so its not below the dash area any more.

Forgive me if I'm missing something, but you can do this with a simple dash switch line to your low amp draw devices (ZLD and media  center) and the amp remote-on inputs.  There's really no reason to totally disconnect the amp power lines from the battery every time you leave the boat.  There should be fuses in those lines but you don't need switches, solenoids, etc.  Bonus with an ACR is that if you do leave the switch on, and the amps do drain the stereo battery, the boat battery does not get drained and will still run your bilge pump.

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