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Claire1000

DRAFT Winterizing 2016 A22 with Crusader Challenger Engine

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Claire1000

I can't find a thread with steps on winterizing the 2016 Axis A22 with a Crusader 350 Challenger engine. Is there one I'm missing? Other areas I need feedback below. I also took some pictures and will try to add those. More details as I find them or people help me. 

1. Add fuel stabilizer. Run engine for 15 minutes. Fuel capacity is 42 gallons.

2. Change fuel filter. Part number RP080026. About $50. 

3. Change the oil and oil filter (15w 40 and motorcraft filter FL-1A)

4. Fog the cylinders if you want. See other discussions and decide for yourself  

DRAIN SYSTEM

5. Remove the 4 brass plugs from the exhaust manifold (2 on each side). The two at the aft are 14mm. The two foreward are 18mm. A good bit of water should come out each. 

6. Unplug the 2 knock sensors (one on each side). Remove the small bolt that holds on the housing (13mm). Then remove the large plug (1"). You will need a 1" socket or a large adjustable wrench for this. A good bit of water as well. 

7. Remove the hose to the transmission cooler. On the starboard side, near the bottom of the engine, comes out of the vdrive. Fat black hose with green stripe. Use 8mm nut driver to loosen hose clamp and pull off hose. Good bit of water. 

8. Drain the vdrive. Under the transmission cover, using a 1/2" socket drive extension (not a socket, but the square ended part), remove the plug at the bottom of the forward end of the vdrive. It's hard to see but is all the way at the bottom. Good bit of water should come out. 

9. Remove the sea strainer if equipped. This is in the transmission access and is a large twist off clear plastic thing with a mesh wire filter inside. We had to use a belt wrench to get ours off. A few cups of water came out. 

10. Remove 7/8" brass barb fitting from circulation pump on back of engine, behind pully and belt

11. Remove hose clamp and detach hose for impeller circulation pump (near pump in #10) on back of engine  

12. Turn engine over very briefly to get remaining water out. Will be a good bit  

OTHER

13. Remove the impeller and store if in good condition, otherwise replace. RP061018, $28 on Amazon

14. If you have a heater, need to winterize that as well. 

15.  Remove plug and play sacks and make sure they are all the way empty (the pumps do not drain them completely). Add a little bleach if desired.

Edited by Claire1000
Update

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skurfer

Drain- On the front of the motor, 9/16th plug on the bottom of the (hard) J-hose.

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wdr

You can go to the dealer to get the parts, but you will be saving some money going to a local auto parts store for most of this stuff. 2. In-line fuel filter easily sourced from NAPA. On my carb'd '06, I pulled my old one and brought it in for cross ref. 3. Oil per OEM recommendation. I run the NAPA filter "1060" formerly the 1069 for my 350 Monsoon. It is the longest filter (most filter area) available if you have the room to spin it on. 4. I have CATS so I don't fog and I am not sold on fogging for a 6 month layaway any way. If I was that concerned about it I would just crank over the engine and let it spin for a second or two to scour/re oil the cylinder walls mid lay away. For me 5-11 is probably over kill especially as mine is garaged, but I use my shop vac to suck out what I can as well. I am more concerned about corrosion than anything else. 7. There is brass drain plug on the inner bottom behind the intake hose of the trans cooler. You can pull that to drain a little, but I also stick my finger in there to feel for crud and shop vac it out. I always find grass or bark chips in there. 9. I actually pull my impeller and place it in a plastic jar of purified water until I get ready to use it. Primarily to check for wear, its out so I just leave it out. 11. I typically don't mess with bags except to drain out the residual water so it doesn't smell up the garage when  winterize it. The hard tanks I make sure that I drain completely on the inclined boat ramp at the end of season. If I stored where there was a chance for a freeze I would pull the tops off of the pumps and shop vac those as well. With the tongue raised all of the way up you would probably get all of the water out if you shop vac'd it. Lastly, and this is just me keeping me from forgetting to reinstall something and doing something stupid, I replace all of the plugs/sensors that I pulled except the impeller. I think most would advocate leaving them out for water to escape and or expansion in a freeze, but there is so little water left in the block after a properly performed winterization that I don't think it would matter if the plugs were put back in. JM2C

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Claire1000
On 11/28/2016 at 10:23 PM, skurfer said:

Drain- On the front of the motor, 9/16th plug on the bottom of the (hard) J-hose.

I can't find the hard j hose. Any help? 

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Claire1000

Also can't find this. Any help appreciated. I have the sea strainer  would I still have this?

 

 7. There is brass drain plug on the inner bottom behind the intake hose of the trans cooler.

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Claire1000

As best I can tell- J hose area was accomplished a different way (my 7). Brass plug on trans cooler not applicable with sea strainer. Original post above has been updated. 

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Dpettine16

Claire,

 

I have been having some serious issues finding the Plug you are talking about on 7.  This is my first year owning and dewinterizing the boat. I had the dealer winterize it for me and nothing in the manual says anything about this plug.  Are you able to give any additional guidance on locating the brass plug on trans cooler?  

 

Thanks!

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Claire1000

If we are talking about 7, it's not a plug, it's a big hose. Let me know if that's not clear. 

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DylanR

Any videos on this? Just for reference?

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