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What Winter Bu Projects Are You Planning?


minnmarker

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1 hour ago, dpbremer said:

I thought I would share a list of the winter projects I did on my 2015 22VLX.

1.  Added a ProMariner ProSport 8 amp 2 bank battery charger.

  • I mounted it right next to the batteries, under the seat cushion.
  • Hodges Marine is the cheapest place I found it. LINK
  • LINK to pictures

2. Rebuilt the subwoofer enclosure

  • Targeted 1.1 cu ft net after woofer was installed
  • Constructed it out of 3/4" MDF, all seams glued and screwed
  • Coated it with Rustoleum Marine Coating Topside Paint  LINK  (better adhesion to wood than bedliner)
  • Inside seams sealed with GE silicone II which has no corrosive outgassing to attack the woofer
  • Used audio binding posts for speaker terminals, no chance of air leakage or warpage of a plastic cup. LINK
  • I made cleats to hold the rear of the enclosure so it can slide in, then an "L" bracket and modified foot for the front. See pics
  • I was able to reuse the carpeted kick plate, although I enlarged the speaker opening such that it fits around the woofer grill, which is now mounted to the enclosure for a nice tight seal.
  • All this made a night and day sound difference.
  • LINK to pictures

3. Added the WetSounds WS-420SQ 4 Band Parametric Equalizer with 3 Zone Operation LINK

  • I mounted it on the right side of the helm
  • I used Stinger 17-Foot 6000 Series Audiophile Grade RCA Interconnect Cables (4 pair) LINK
  • Optimized each of the amplifiers for maximum unclipped power output
  • LINK to pictures

4. Improved the engine divider panels as the plug 'n play ballast bags would keep popping them out of the channel and into the engine compartment

  • Added the WakeMAKERS Engine Divider Panel Saver LINK
  • These alone were not enough to prevent the panels from popping out of the 1/2" tall receiving channels. So I sistered a 1"x1" piece of "L" aluminum channel I purchased at the home center, painted it black.
  • Before installing the aluminum channel, I pulled up the Kingboard that sits on top of the hard tanks in each locker and routed channels in the bottom where the hard tank brackets sit. These brackets were making the Kingboard bow up which would make it difficult to install the aluminum channel.
  • LINK to pictures

5. I add a 3 output heater

  • I purchased the ACU-HEAT 314 HC 3 OUTLET SYSTEM from Discount Inboard Marine LINK  This is the exact same as the Heater Craft 300 Pro (but cheaper) minus the Low Idle "Y", which I bought separately LINK
  • One pull-out tube in the walkway
  • One pull-out and one fixed under the helm
  • Disconnects in both the supply and return hoses
  • Shut-off in the supply (in case there is ever an issue my day is not ruined)
  • LINK to pictures

6. I added a transom shower

  • I purchased the AQUATIK MARINE SHOWER SYSTEM Pressurized from Discount Inboard Marine LINK   This is the exact same as the Heater Craft 112SC (but cheaper)
  • I mounted this under the starboard side transom seat
  • Created my own wire harness using Delphi Weather Pack connectors, same a Malibu uses.
  • Pump was mounted on inside of the transom wall, right next to the mufler
  • The shower hose will coil up in the tub under the seat, same place the controls are located
  • LINK to pictures

7. Changing out the exhaust flappers for Turn Down 3-1/2" Stainless Steel Silent Tip Exhaust Ports

  • I purchased a pair of these from Bakes LINK before they went out of stock. Now the only source is directly from Malibu $$$
  • The FAE systems add about 8-10" to the overall boat length and my garage just doesn't have the much room to spare. Currently I have to back my boat up with the wedge against the back garage wall.
  • I know there is debate whether these STE's help or not, I guess I will see in the spring!
  • I haven't actually installed them yet, not enough room behind the boat to work on it... so no pictures yet.

8. I got my prop repaired

  • Late last summer I had a small run in with a rock
  • I ended up buying another Acme 2419 prop
  • The damaged one I got repaired over the winter at PropMD in Plymouth, MN LINK  They did an outstanding job, actually looks better than my new one with the polished finish they put on it!
  • LINK to pictures

One thing I would like to add yet is GatorStep to the bow, front and rear deck LINK. (I only want the following pieces: G1, G2, G3, G4, G5, G6, G9, G10 and B1 (I don't want B2, B3, B4 or B5). Scraped Sharkfin with Black bottom). The price is a little steep for all, $429 plus shipping!

WOW! I'm not sure if I'm more impressed or more jealous. Nice work! I only wish I was handy enough to do projects like this. Those are great upgrades that you will enjoy for every season you have your VLX. May the warm weather come quickly so you can enjoy the fruit of your labor. But not too warm or you won't enjoy the shower or heater. 

Is the GatorStep the only thing left on the wish list?

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7 hours ago, RevWil said:

 

WOW! I'm not sure if I'm more impressed or more jealous. Nice work! I only wish I was handy enough to do projects like this. Those are great upgrades that you will enjoy for every season you have your VLX. May the warm weather come quickly so you can enjoy the fruit of your labor. But not too warm or you won't enjoy the shower or heater. 

Is the GatorStep the only thing left on the wish list?

Thank you RevWil!!! I enjoy tinkering so this list was pretty fun. This is the first year I have stored my boat at my home, thinking I would save some $.. Ha! not sure that savings plan worked out!

I have gotten a lot of good ideas reading this forum so I hope I can return the favor to anyone else that reads this.

Being from Minnesota, the shower and heater should help extend (at least more comfortably extend) the season... in particular allowing us to get out a little earlier in the spring when we are chomping at the bit to get going!

Regarding the GatorStep, I am interested in that mainly for when people are getting on and off the boat at the dock... I am always worried someone is going to unknowing slip when the surface is wet. Just seems like a lot of money though!

To answer your specific question, GatorStep, transom lights and maybe rear facing tower lights... are the wish list items I have left.

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7 hours ago, Cole2001 said:

@dpbremer  With the ACU HEAT do you get the same performance as the heater craft? A heater was on the winter list for the boat but the price seemed really high. 

Cole2001, I had some of the same concerns. I contacted them to find out the skinny on it. Turns out the ACU HEAT heater sold by SKIDIM is made by Heater Craft, actually its the EXACT same heater (even has Heater Craft stamped on it) as the 300 Pro (which they charge a lot more for) with two differences... it only has a 1 vs 2 year warranty and it doesn't include the Low Idle "Y" adapter in the kit... I had to buy that separately.

ACU-HEAT 314 HC 3 OUTLET SYSTEM is $447 + $41.50 for the "Y" = $488.50 (minus 10% MALIBU skidim discount code) = $440  VS  $650 for the Heater Craft 300 Pro

 

Hope this helps!

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I really wish I could get at my boat in the winter...

Luckly, I can get my boat back to my house in April, and I really can't get my docks and lift into the water until the very end of May. So I'm planning a few things for spring.

1) Plumb in ballast with 3 reversibles

2) Figure out why I am running on 6 cylinders 

3) Clean up the wiring on my stereo from last year. 

4) Install tower mount NAV / ANC light

5) I might add some LED's to the boat lift / dock. 

6) I had the same seat splitting issue as Bill, I dropped my seat off a while ago and actually need to pick it up. Thanks for the reminder. 

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6 minutes ago, Levi900RR said:

I really wish I could get at my boat in the winter...

Luckly, I can get my boat back to my house in April, and I really can't get my docks and lift into the water until the very end of May. So I'm planning a few things for spring.

1) Plumb in ballast with 3 reversibles

2) Figure out why I am running on 6 cylinders 

3) Clean up the wiring on my stereo from last year. 

4) Install tower mount NAV / ANC light

5) I might add some LED's to the boat lift / dock. 

6) I had the same seat splitting issue as Bill, I dropped my seat off a while ago and actually need to pick it up. Thanks for the reminder. 

I think #2 is by far the highest priority.

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12 hours ago, dpbremer said:

I thought I would share a list of the winter projects I did on my 2015 22VLX.

1.  Added a ProMariner ProSport 8 amp 2 bank battery charger.

  • I mounted it right next to the batteries, under the seat cushion.
  • Hodges Marine is the cheapest place I found it. LINK
  • LINK to pictures

2. Rebuilt the subwoofer enclosure

  • Targeted 1.1 cu ft net after woofer was installed
  • Constructed it out of 3/4" MDF, all seams glued and screwed
  • Coated it with Rustoleum Marine Coating Topside Paint  LINK  (better adhesion to wood than bedliner)
  • Inside seams sealed with GE silicone II which has no corrosive outgassing to attack the woofer
  • Used audio binding posts for speaker terminals, no chance of air leakage or warpage of a plastic cup. LINK
  • I made cleats to hold the rear of the enclosure so it can slide in, then an "L" bracket and modified foot for the front. See pics
  • I was able to reuse the carpeted kick plate, although I enlarged the speaker opening such that it fits around the woofer grill, which is now mounted to the enclosure for a nice tight seal.
  • All this made a night and day sound difference.
  • LINK to pictures

3. Added the WetSounds WS-420SQ 4 Band Parametric Equalizer with 3 Zone Operation LINK

  • I mounted it on the right side of the helm
  • I used Stinger 17-Foot 6000 Series Audiophile Grade RCA Interconnect Cables (4 pair) LINK
  • Optimized each of the amplifiers for maximum unclipped power output
  • LINK to pictures

4. Improved the engine divider panels as the plug 'n play ballast bags would keep popping them out of the channel and into the engine compartment

  • Added the WakeMAKERS Engine Divider Panel Saver LINK
  • These alone were not enough to prevent the panels from popping out of the 1/2" tall receiving channels. So I sistered a 1"x1" piece of "L" aluminum channel I purchased at the home center, painted it black.
  • Before installing the aluminum channel, I pulled up the Kingboard that sits on top of the hard tanks in each locker and routed channels in the bottom where the hard tank brackets sit. These brackets were making the Kingboard bow up which would make it difficult to install the aluminum channel.
  • LINK to pictures

5. I add a 3 output heater

  • I purchased the ACU-HEAT 314 HC 3 OUTLET SYSTEM from Discount Inboard Marine LINK  This is the exact same as the Heater Craft 300 Pro (but cheaper) minus the Low Idle "Y", which I bought separately LINK
  • One pull-out tube in the walkway
  • One pull-out and one fixed under the helm
  • Disconnects in both the supply and return hoses
  • Shut-off in the supply (in case there is ever an issue my day is not ruined)
  • LINK to pictures

6. I added a transom shower

  • I purchased the AQUATIK MARINE SHOWER SYSTEM Pressurized from Discount Inboard Marine LINK   This is the exact same as the Heater Craft 112SC (but cheaper)
  • I mounted this under the starboard side transom seat
  • Created my own wire harness using Delphi Weather Pack connectors, same a Malibu uses.
  • Pump was mounted on inside of the transom wall, right next to the mufler
  • The shower hose will coil up in the tub under the seat, same place the controls are located
  • LINK to pictures

7. Changing out the exhaust flappers for Turn Down 3-1/2" Stainless Steel Silent Tip Exhaust Ports

  • I purchased a pair of these from Bakes LINK before they went out of stock. Now the only source is directly from Malibu $$$
  • The FAE systems add about 8-10" to the overall boat length and my garage just doesn't have the much room to spare. Currently I have to back my boat up with the wedge against the back garage wall.
  • I know there is debate whether these STE's help or not, I guess I will see in the spring!
  • I haven't actually installed them yet, not enough room behind the boat to work on it... so no pictures yet.

8. I got my prop repaired

  • Late last summer I had a small run in with a rock
  • I ended up buying another Acme 2419 prop
  • The damaged one I got repaired over the winter at PropMD in Plymouth, MN LINK  They did an outstanding job, actually looks better than my new one with the polished finish they put on it!
  • LINK to pictures

One thing I would like to add yet is GatorStep to the bow, front and rear deck LINK. (I only want the following pieces: G1, G2, G3, G4, G5, G6, G9, G10 and B1 (I don't want B2, B3, B4 or B5). Scraped Sharkfin with Black bottom). The price is a little steep for all, $429 plus shipping!

This.  Everyone who does projects should document them like this.  Perfect starter kit how to for any new boat owner. 

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32 minutes ago, 05hammerhead said:

This.  Everyone who does projects should document them like this.  Perfect starter kit how to for any new boat owner. 

Agreed - very well documented and helpful!!

Link to comment
18 hours ago, dpbremer said:

I thought I would share a list of the winter projects I did on my 2015 22VLX.

1.  Added a ProMariner ProSport 8 amp 2 bank battery charger.

  • I mounted it right next to the batteries, under the seat cushion.
  • Hodges Marine is the cheapest place I found it. LINK
  • LINK to pictures

2. Rebuilt the subwoofer enclosure

  • Targeted 1.1 cu ft net after woofer was installed
  • Constructed it out of 3/4" MDF, all seams glued and screwed
  • Coated it with Rustoleum Marine Coating Topside Paint  LINK  (better adhesion to wood than bedliner)
  • Inside seams sealed with GE silicone II which has no corrosive outgassing to attack the woofer
  • Used audio binding posts for speaker terminals, no chance of air leakage or warpage of a plastic cup. LINK
  • I made cleats to hold the rear of the enclosure so it can slide in, then an "L" bracket and modified foot for the front. See pics
  • I was able to reuse the carpeted kick plate, although I enlarged the speaker opening such that it fits around the woofer grill, which is now mounted to the enclosure for a nice tight seal.
  • All this made a night and day sound difference.
  • LINK to pictures

3. Added the WetSounds WS-420SQ 4 Band Parametric Equalizer with 3 Zone Operation LINK

  • I mounted it on the right side of the helm
  • I used Stinger 17-Foot 6000 Series Audiophile Grade RCA Interconnect Cables (4 pair) LINK
  • Optimized each of the amplifiers for maximum unclipped power output
  • LINK to pictures

4. Improved the engine divider panels as the plug 'n play ballast bags would keep popping them out of the channel and into the engine compartment

  • Added the WakeMAKERS Engine Divider Panel Saver LINK
  • These alone were not enough to prevent the panels from popping out of the 1/2" tall receiving channels. So I sistered a 1"x1" piece of "L" aluminum channel I purchased at the home center, painted it black.
  • Before installing the aluminum channel, I pulled up the Kingboard that sits on top of the hard tanks in each locker and routed channels in the bottom where the hard tank brackets sit. These brackets were making the Kingboard bow up which would make it difficult to install the aluminum channel.
  • LINK to pictures

5. I add a 3 output heater

  • I purchased the ACU-HEAT 314 HC 3 OUTLET SYSTEM from Discount Inboard Marine LINK  This is the exact same as the Heater Craft 300 Pro (but cheaper) minus the Low Idle "Y", which I bought separately LINK
  • One pull-out tube in the walkway
  • One pull-out and one fixed under the helm
  • Disconnects in both the supply and return hoses
  • Shut-off in the supply (in case there is ever an issue my day is not ruined)
  • LINK to pictures

6. I added a transom shower

  • I purchased the AQUATIK MARINE SHOWER SYSTEM Pressurized from Discount Inboard Marine LINK   This is the exact same as the Heater Craft 112SC (but cheaper)
  • I mounted this under the starboard side transom seat
  • Created my own wire harness using Delphi Weather Pack connectors, same a Malibu uses.
  • Pump was mounted on inside of the transom wall, right next to the mufler
  • The shower hose will coil up in the tub under the seat, same place the controls are located
  • LINK to pictures

7. Changing out the exhaust flappers for Turn Down 3-1/2" Stainless Steel Silent Tip Exhaust Ports

  • I purchased a pair of these from Bakes LINK before they went out of stock. Now the only source is directly from Malibu $$$
  • The FAE systems add about 8-10" to the overall boat length and my garage just doesn't have the much room to spare. Currently I have to back my boat up with the wedge against the back garage wall.
  • I know there is debate whether these STE's help or not, I guess I will see in the spring!
  • I haven't actually installed them yet, not enough room behind the boat to work on it... so no pictures yet.

8. I got my prop repaired

  • Late last summer I had a small run in with a rock
  • I ended up buying another Acme 2419 prop
  • The damaged one I got repaired over the winter at PropMD in Plymouth, MN LINK  They did an outstanding job, actually looks better than my new one with the polished finish they put on it!
  • LINK to pictures

One thing I would like to add yet is GatorStep to the bow, front and rear deck LINK. (I only want the following pieces: G1, G2, G3, G4, G5, G6, G9, G10 and B1 (I don't want B2, B3, B4 or B5). Scraped Sharkfin with Black bottom). The price is a little steep for all, $429 plus shipping!

Bet you sat in the front of every classroom too? Just kidding, sweet list and motivation. Remember though that sunlight is extremely important health wise especially during the winter months. Fresh air too.. :rockon:

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1. Have Dealer Detail Boat

2. New Ice Chest

3. New Music Set List

4. Recruit more Bow Candy

5. Shred as much Powder as possible snowboarding and snowmobiling and repeat #4.

:thumbup: 

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5 hours ago, alpensurf23 said:

Bet you sat in the front of every classroom too? Just kidding, sweet list and motivation. Remember though that sunlight is extremely important health wise especially during the winter months. Fresh air too.. :rockon:

LOL @alpensurf23 ;)

The detail is the engineering side in me, hard to turn that off... I hope its helpful to others. Most of this work was done on free weeknights, not too much sunlight in the middle of winter in the north county unfortunately :(

  • Like 1
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1 hour ago, dpbremer said:

LOL @alpensurf23 ;)

The detail is the engineering side in me, hard to turn that off... I hope its helpful to others. Most of this work was done on free weeknights, not too much sunlight in the middle of winter in the north county unfortunately :(

I bet your snow machine is mint seeing how well you care for your Bu!

  • Like 2
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I just finished my homemade LED speaker rings.  Thanks to @bunji169 for the tips in his post.  Followed pretty close to what he did.  Also added a light strip under the helm to illuminate that area better.  Still have to do the towers but I think it turned out great.  Total investment $110 and about 5-6 hours of time.

IMG_4768_zpslzj0i0sl.jpg

IMG_4767_zpszmg4luie.jpg

IMG_4766_zpswmd6izsi.jpg

IMG_4765_zpsw4ltegor.jpg

IMG_4763_zps5uv7szbf.jpg

  • Like 2
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I have not done much this winter. Didn't have to because my new boat, 2007 LSV, is pretty much done. I did, however, need to install a solar charging port. And an ACR for peace of mind. The stereo has 8 cabin speakers, two Rev 10s, four Rev 8s, and a 15" sub. Even though it has three XS3000 Group31 batteries and a Group24 it was only a matter of time before I stranded myself. The alternator charges at 240amps so I couldn't use the standard Si ACR. I installed the new ACR, rated for 500amps, and a couple bus bars for future power access. The new ACR is designed to run with two kill switches. But it has a switch that will manually join the two banks or isolate them. So I just used a basic on/off switch on the negative side as a master kill switch. It's not quite done as I still have to run a wire to the ignition switch for start isolation. But here it the panel I built. 9631ED9D-AF03-47F4-9A8D-CC584B47ECE0.jpg

 

Edited by Big Jay D
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  • 4 weeks later...
On 12/6/2016 at 8:41 AM, sunvalleylaw said:

My over the winter/early spring list for my new to me old '98 Response LX.

 

Cosmetically repairing a scratch that was sealed, but not cleaned up aesthetically, by the prior owner.  

Doing some little repair on a couple upholstery nicks.  

re-doing the front nav light.  It at least needs a new bulb, and possibly a new bulb holder.  

cleaning up and restoring the teak deck.  Will follow directions in a thread here.

replacing sagging and soft wood in the trailer steps.  Bunks are ok. 

making sure the trailer brakes are in good repair.

Cleaning from the boat bottom some water staining, then polishing and waxing/polysealing the boat.

Organizing the storage in the under dash area so it is easier to deal with the anchor, extra lines, fire extinguisher, life vests, etc., and it is not just in a pile in there.

see about keeping the bench in the open bow a bit more secure and in place.  It tends to slide back into the storage. 

restore and tighten up netting in the side storage.  Just one side is loose and needs to be re-connected.  

get the replacement prop figured out.  Will need to be on the water for that.  Thinking I will try a couple props from ACME.  I am choosing between the 515 and 525.  I would like to test them at my altitude.  There is a separate thread on that somewhere.  

Consider finding a replacement "glove box" lid as the vinyl on mine is bubbled just a bit.  

 

Any thoughts or hints for keeping things simple on any of the above is appreciated.  :D

 

EDIT: also, consider a bimini top.  We are at a high altitude with very high UV, and it does not hurt to stay protected as much as I can.  

 

Getting to be time to get started.  The snow is melting fast in Hailey.  Still will wait on the gel-coat repair and waxing/polysealing until it is warmer.  Found a good package deal on a 515 and a 525 so I will have the right prop, and a good spare.  A buddy has a barely used bimini that should work.  He got it, then pretty much immediately got a tower.  So will see if it will work on mine.  

Also going to put some LED "reverse" lights on the trailer for night time parking.  We often finish just by dusk, and the rocks in the camp site as you back up can sneak up on you.  Also will get started on the trailer steps.  Will pull the old ones out to use as templates for replacement ply, and find some inexpensive black carpet/turf to glue on.  Oh, also will put a safety chain on the trailer.  It did not come with one, and though it might not make a big difference in a crash, I still feel safer with one there.  

 

As far as boat sound, got a UE Boom 2, and will get a second soon.  That will be plenty for our needs.  I do not need huge speakers hanging off a tower, and frankly do not like tunes on when I am pulling anyone, or being pulled.  

Edited by sunvalleylaw
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15 minutes ago, sunvalleylaw said:

As far as boat sound, got a UE Boom 2, and will get a second soon.  That will be plenty for our needs.  I do not need huge speakers hanging off a tower, and frankly do not like tunes on when I am pulling anyone, or being pulled.  

You, sir, just gave me my home audio system solution.  The wife and I argue constantly about this, I want sound, she does not, nor want the ugly that goes with it.  Gonna get 2 of these and use them as needed in the house, wherever the action is.  Thanks!!

That said - I have a simple HU, 40w amp, 4 speakers, and powered sub in the Echelon ($600).  I just wanted the bare minimum, and this little set up rocks.  FWIW.

  • Like 1
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