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Pair of Rev10's with a JL Audio HD 750/1


pknappe

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Just finished the install and the Rev10's sound great. I have them going thru the stock RFX5000 Rockford head unit, with the stock subwoofer (Rockford P300X2 amp) and 6.5" cabin speakers (Rockford P400X4 amp).  The tower speakers are wired as the rear speakers and the cabin as the front speakers. Started to do some tuning and the tower speakers are dominating, even with fade almost all the way forward. A couple questions for the crew:

1) I noticed that the frequency response for the JL Audio HD750/1 is only 6 HZ to 8 kHZ. Seems sort of low.  Will this affect the frequency response of the Rev10's? Should I consider another amp for the Rev10's?

2) I want to add another HD750/1 for the sub, and thinking of a SD4 or SD6 for the cabin speakers. Would this give better balance to the system?

3) Will add a WS420SQ.

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1) The JL Audio HD750/1 is an excellent match-up with a pair of HLCD Rev10s. There's no audible loss of high frequencies. The amplifier is ruler flat beyond 8kHz and only slightly down at double that frequency. Would I use a widerange amplifier fullrange on a pair of Focal Utopias in a quiet luxury car with a major sound damping treatment? Probably not. I'd go with the HD600/4 instead. But the HD750/1 is perfect for an HLCD tower speaker.

Why is JL Audio so conservative on the response spec? Because all Class D amplifiers use a passive filter (lowpass inductor) in the final stage to eliminate the high speed analog switching. The frequency response of all Class D amplifiers change with a change of impedance. And the HD750/1 is rated down to a lower 1.5 ohms, thus their response includes all usable impedances and the resulting bias. Something that other Class D amplifiers fail to detail in their specs. 

The nominal 4-ohm Rev10 uses an 8-ohm compression driver and its impedance rises above 10kHz. So even at 16 kHz there is minimal HF degradation. Compression drivers typically have some phase-induced losses above 10 kHz anyway due to a 1.4" diaphragm loading into a less than 1" throat. Then there's a question of whether you can hear 16 kHz in the tower speaker environment. You cannot without SERIOUS attenuation. In other words, you cannot.     

Edited by David
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9 hours ago, pknappe said:

Started to do some tuning and the tower speakers are dominating, even with fade almost all the way forward.

As expected. You've got a pair of 10" HLCD driven with 375W rms each, they should dominate. IMO, dont compare them to the in-boats. tower speakers have a purpose and its not to balance or blend with in-boats. 

Swapping the 400.4 for an SD-4 or SD-6 has the potential to triple the available wattage to each in-boat. This will greatly improve their performance. However, dont expect equal or balanced output. 

If you are still running the OEM 12" woofer, id go with the SD-6. 2 chnls bridged for the woofer and 4 for the 8 in-boats. 

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David,

Thanks for the input. I thought the JL amp would work, it was just a little concerning to read the specs. 

MLA,

Great idea on the SD6. That will save me a few bucks. If I wanted to upgrade the in boat speakers, what would you recommend? I think I am limited to 6.5" speakers in the 2014 VLX  

Think I'll go with the WS420 as well. Need a winter project. 

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On 10/26/2016 at 10:19 PM, pknappe said:

Just finished the install and the Rev10's sound great. I have them going thru the stock RFX5000 Rockford head unit, with the stock subwoofer (Rockford P300X2 amp) and 6.5" cabin speakers (Rockford P400X4 amp).  The tower speakers are wired as the rear speakers and the cabin as the front speakers. Started to do some tuning and the tower speakers are dominating, even with fade almost all the way forward. A couple questions for the crew:

1) I noticed that the frequency response for the JL Audio HD750/1 is only 6 HZ to 8 kHZ. Seems sort of low.  Will this affect the frequency response of the Rev10's? Should I consider another amp for the Rev10's?

2) I want to add another HD750/1 for the sub, and thinking of a SD4 or SD6 for the cabin speakers. Would this give better balance to the system?

3) Will add a WS420SQ.

I ran an sd6 this season and loved it. If you don't need and 6 ch amp I would seriously look into the sd4. Adding more power to the inboats  and proper tuning will get everything balanced out.

If you are going to keep the inboat speakers stock I may also consider the syn dx 4. It should give you 100 watts rms. The sd line is great but I did find myself replacing tweeters more than once this season with the power of the sd on my inboats. 

Good luck, keep us posted on where you end up. 

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If you boat has all 6.5" in-boats, I would consider the new Syn-DX6 for in-boats and woofer. Same 600W to a 4 ohm woofer and 100W rms is more than plenty for ANY marine 6.5 in-boat. A little lower price point than the SD with no real sacrifice on wattage. 

As to an upgrade, I would not hesitate to stick with the OEM rockford M262. Not a bad speaker once it has some good wattage behind it. A serious upgrade to it would be the Wet Sounds 650 series or the new Revo or either of the JL 650 series. If you do have room for a larger speaker, I would consider the Kicker KM8. Larger than a 6.5 speaker but a little smaller OD than the Wet Sounds XS-808 or Rockford M282. May not fit in all spots, but swapping out a couple pair to a larger speaker makes a significant difference. 

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  • 6 months later...

Just finished install of my new Syn 6 amb and a WS420.  Had previously installed the JL HD750.1 for the two Rev10's. Hooked up the four pair of cabin speakers to the 1-4 outputs, and used a bridged 5-6 output for the sub.  Everything works fine except for the sub.  No output from the sub.  Checked the resistance of the sub at the amp and it is 4 ohms. I attached pictures of the setup on the amp. I attached the minus lead of the sub to 5- and the plus lead to 6+ .IMG_0308.JPG 

 IMG_0309.JPG

 

Any ideas? Bad amp?

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It's hard to tell from the picture where your Sub gain is set, either at Min or at the 6 hash mark. My '17 Black box is different from yours but mine has very low sub voltage signal coming out of the box. My Sub gain is much higher than the other 4 channels.

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Increased the cross over frequency, increased the sub gain significantly, and turned up the WS420 volume and got it to work. 

I do like the added control from the equalizer. Now it's time to do some tuning. 

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  • 1 month later...

Was up on he lake was his weekend and discover d another problem. When I turn the engine on,after picking up a skier, the SD6 drops off and doesn't come back on.  The 750.1 doesn't have this problem. I have to turn off the HU and then power it back on to get the SD6 to come back on. 

 

Any thoughts?

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Not sure what the actual problem is but it would not be uncommon for different amplifiers to have different turn-on voltage thresholds or different turn On/Off behaviors. I can only speculate the issue to be that you are attempting to start the boat which creates a substantial voltage drop and turn on the audio electronics simultaneously. Here's a suggestion that might be an easy solution. A relay has a much lower turn On/Off voltage threshold than any 12V audio equipment. Have the HU output trigger control a relay, and have the relay supply voltage to the amplifier(s) turn-on terminals along with any other turn-on circuits of additional audio components, EQs, etc. The relay trigger will come form the HU but the relay switched supply will come from the same distribution that powers the amplifiers. And this supply to the relay should be a fairly heavy gauge wire, like 14-gauge. Or, you can simply change your habits and power the electronics down prior to turning off the boat.    

Edited by David
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