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Carpeat wont dry - want to cover....


DirtTrailMedia

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After a hard rain last week, I've had the cover off for a few days and the floor is still soaked. 

I put the seat cushions in the garage to dry out, what's the best way to get carpet and interior to dry faster? I'd like to put the cover on so I can take it to the dealer and get it shrink wrapped for the winter, but didn't want it to sit at the dealership waiting with everything still wet. 

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I have 3 of those vertical floor standing fans I arrange all through the boat to blow on the carpets and then a box fan. I also have some small computer fans I will stick down in the bilge for a couple of days to get anything that was down there. i can have my boat completely dry in about 2 days.

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Shop vac works great to get the excessive water out. Fans after that.  I have also put my basement dehumidifier in with the cover on and run the drain hose out the ski locker drain.

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I honestly dont remeber my other boats holding water this long. Guess the carpet was much thinner. What worries me the most is the carpet holding water like this, the long term damablge it can do to the plywood floor. 

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Just now, DirtTrailMedia said:

I honestly dont remeber my other boats holding water this long. Guess the carpet was much thinner. What worries me the most is the carpet holding water like this, the long term damablge it can do to the plywood floor. 

Your boat does not have any wood in it at all.  (assuming the 09 on your profile).  

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Just now, REW said:

Your boat does not have any wood in it at all.  (assuming the 09 on your profile).  

Correct, 2009 Sunscape 20 LSV. Good to know. Does the fiberglass help the carpet hold water a little more? That might be a stupid question. 

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Following this thread. 

 

Started a a similar one a few days ago. But more about how to keep it dry for the long run when we leave the marina. Sprayed 303 on the cover to improve water resistance, adding vents, adding hangtye and adding blower fan to run while I am gone. 

 

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Just now, Air Tahoe said:

Following this thread. 

 

Started a a similar one a few days ago. But more about how to keep it dry for the long run when we leave the marina. Sprayed 303 on the cover to improve water resistance, adding vents, adding hangtye and adding blower fan to run while I am gone. 

 

 
 

Someone made the comment in a thread I made the other day about best way to store a boat outside with a tower, since my top goes around the tower, water can get in - they suggested this product to help soak the moisture up while the boat is shrink wrapped, might be something you could use as well: http://www.homedepot.com/p/DampRid-4-lbs-Moisture-Absorber-Fresh-Scent-FG50FS/206468159

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7 minutes ago, DirtTrailMedia said:

Someone made the comment in a thread I made the other day about best way to store a boat outside with a tower, since my top goes around the tower, water can get in - they suggested this product to help soak the moisture up while the boat is shrink wrapped, might be something you could use as well: http://www.homedepot.com/p/DampRid-4-lbs-Moisture-Absorber-Fresh-Scent-FG50FS/206468159

That works good if your boat is already dry - if you shrink wrap it with a bunch of moisture in there be prepared to have those things fill up with water quickly and then not do anything.

I would shop vac the water out then let it sit in the sun or put some fans on it for a little bit - should dry up very quickly for you.  If the dealer is good they shouldn't shrink wrap it when it is really wet and they typically will hang up traps to gather water after the shrink wrap is on (at least mine does).

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1 hour ago, DirtTrailMedia said:

Correct, 2009 Sunscape 20 LSV. Good to know. Does the fiberglass help the carpet hold water a little more? That might be a stupid question. 

It's a huuuuge bonus there is no wood in your boat. The fiberglass wont abosrb water, so it should shed water more quickly. Take a wet vac to it and fan it as best as possible.

Steve B.

 

 

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11 hours ago, DirtTrailMedia said:

Correct, 2009 Sunscape 20 LSV. Good to know. Does the fiberglass help the carpet hold water a little more? That might be a stupid question. 

It's going to make it act like a large plate.  I use a shop vac to get out the most of the water when mine gets wet, speeds the drying up by about three days.  

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36 minutes ago, Michigan boarder said:

+1 on the shopvac.  You will be amazed at how much water you pull out of the carpet.

Correct except that the new snap out carpets the real water is in the diaper and the vac can't get to that water so you have to remove it each time so diaper will dry, love the new thick carpet but most of water is not in the carpet fibers, probably less than 15% of water when soaked is in carpet, goes to diaper  almost immediately, if you can replace the floor carpet to a new snap out, that would improve your season and the storage 

my glued carpet in lockers dries quite easily with a little bit of shop vac and air circulation cause carpet thin and backing extra thin and that backing is designed to hold glue not water, therefore it dries well cause water stays in or on top of carpet fibers.  that carpet does feel good on feet and I would replace old glue down with that style glued down and it would dry with the fans , I'm skdi a bit picky and ask folks to drain some  on transom or engine covers as well as removing the jacket back there

Edited by granddaddy55
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Shop vac it first. Since it is soaked already, now is a great time to give it a power washing. You will be amazed at how dirty the carpet really is. 

I keep ours garaged and uncovered with a box fan (or two) running to dry her out.

Can you store it indoors. Shrink is pretty pricey...some folks have found winter indoor storage for similar costs to shrinking and obviously indoor is much better way to preserve your boat. 

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Im trying to find local indoor storage, i dont care if I have to pay up to $200/month for winter storage, it's just a matter of finding an open spot. 

I never thought of power washing the carpet, does that bring it back to life at all? The carpet in the main floor is pretty matted compared to under the seats that dont get feet. 

I bought a Rigid shop vac thats the portable model (smaller) to keep from having to use my dirty one we use for house remodels. 

Using it right now :)

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1 hour ago, DirtTrailMedia said:

This little pocket in the driver side rear storage keeps filling up with water after i vac it out. The otger side is not filling up. I have the boat on an incline to get everything to roll to the back. Any idea what could be feeding this pocket water?

 

https://goo.gl/photos/UDDxeftTUuPhtRV96

Mind did exactly the same thing. I figured out that the water was coming into that hole (which is there for the platform bracket bolts) from under the floor. Evidently they do not glass the hole very well and it is not water tight. Solved it by vacuuming the water out, making sure the bow was down a bit so water in bilge flowed forward, letting the hole dry, then smearing a whole tube of marine (wet set) epoxy around the bottom and sides of the hole.

No more water in the hole and no more wet carpet.

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I was looking to see if I could make that hole a little bigger, I can see where the hole is that water is coming in to fill that pocked up, I was thinking of finding a way to make that hole bigger so the water can drain into it faster, for me to shop vac it out - then seal it back up. Wasn't sure if I should or if it would matter, to trap the water in the hull by sealing it up before getting all the water up.

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Don't worry about the water in the bilge. There will be more, and more. That's what the bilge pump is for. You just want to prevent it from moving up above the floor through that hole when the bow is up - which is often if your boarding, surfing, or cruising slowly.

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The hole isn't connected over to the engine side where the bilge is, that engine area is bone dry. Wherever this water is coming from, it's in the hull up the right side of the boat. So I'm not sure if that area is connected in a way to get into the section that the bilge pulls from. 

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1 minute ago, DirtTrailMedia said:

The hole isn't connected over to the engine side where the bilge is, that engine area is bone dry. Wherever this water is coming from, it's in the hull up the right side of the boat. So I'm not sure if that area is connected in a way to get into the section that the bilge pulls from. 

Correct - the stringers separate the bilge into 3 sections but further forward there are holes where water can flow across and water gets in the outboard sections - and stays to some extent. Invest $5 in some epoxy and you'll have Dry carpet in the rear locker.

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9 minutes ago, minnmarker said:

Correct - the stringers separate the bilge into 3 sections but further forward there are holes where water can flow across and water gets in the outboard sections - and stays to some extent. Invest $5 in some epoxy and you'll have Dry carpet in the rear locker.

Ahh ok makes sense. When I turn the boat around in the driveway and park it where it goes, the nose will be lower so the water can get back up there. I have to run by Home Depot tomorrow so I'll pick up some epoxy while I'm there and patch that up. I really appreciate the advice!

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On 10/25/2016 at 6:33 PM, DirtTrailMedia said:

Someone made the comment in a thread I made the other day about best way to store a boat outside with a tower, since my top goes around the tower, water can get in - they suggested this product to help soak the moisture up while the boat is shrink wrapped, might be something you could use as well: http://www.homedepot.com/p/DampRid-4-lbs-Moisture-Absorber-Fresh-Scent-FG50FS/206468159

I made that comment.  I kept my boat with the cover on then I bought this huge tarp, I think it was 40'x40' or somewhere close.  We would cover the entire boat over the tower & it even wrapped the trailer tires.  Then buggee cord that thing down tight & everything just rolls right off the tarp.  My new one is garaged though but I did keep it wrapped like that when we left it our lake cause some serious storms roll thru there in the summer

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2 hours ago, racer808 said:

I made that comment.  I kept my boat with the cover on then I bought this huge tarp, I think it was 40'x40' or somewhere close.  We would cover the entire boat over the tower & it even wrapped the trailer tires.  Then buggee cord that thing down tight & everything just rolls right off the tarp.  My new one is garaged though but I did keep it wrapped like that when we left it our lake cause some serious storms roll thru there in the summer

 

So the shrink wrap cover that my dealership does claims it can last 3+ seasons and is roughly $450 for the top and their work to form it. I'd probably just be better off to save some money and get the same results to buy a huge tarp and just wrap the entire boat/trailer like you did? Or is there another advantage if you get the boat shrink wrapped as opposed to a big tarp?

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1 hour ago, DirtTrailMedia said:

So the shrink wrap cover that my dealership does claims it can last 3+ seasons and is roughly $450 for the top and their work to form it. I'd probably just be better off to save some money and get the same results to buy a huge tarp and just wrap the entire boat/trailer like you did? Or is there another advantage if you get the boat shrink wrapped as opposed to a big tarp?

I've never shrinked wrap so I don't know.  My tarp from Harbor Freight was like $40.00, you could go through one a year & come out ahead.  Even better, it's camo so when the old man next door started bitchin about it I asked how can even see it.  At least it got him laughing & he never said a word again.  I also left a fan in mine on low & the seats slightly opened just to keep air moving.  I also put a few of those moisture abosrbers, can't remember the name but they come in a plastic bucket, you cut open the packet & dump the stuff in there then leave it where ever you want.  I put one in the bilge, one each ski locker & one in the observers cab.  Probably over kill but whatever, stuffs cheap.  I want to reiterate, I left my shark skin cover on the boat then put the tarp over the tower & stuff.  Redundancy I guess I'd call it 

Edited by racer808
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