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Engine pulling cost?


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What have you guys seen or paid to have an engine pulled and put back in correctly? Fixing my plastic in the pan fiasco. I'm leaning to have this done over the winter. Hopefully reducing the cost vs. in season. I will look to have it done in MN where I store my boat for the winter. Any recommendations on shops around northern Minneapolis?

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If I were to pay someone to work on a v-drive boat it would be an inboard/v-drive dealer.  So MN Inboard (either in New Germany or Baxter) or Midwest Mastercraft (crystal) or Midwest Watersports (Victoria) - assuming they do that sort of work there and don't just shuttle it to Crystal.  Possibly Marine Max since they are the local nautique dealer, they have a big facility in Rogers.

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Pulling and installing the engine is not bad the part you want a good service shop that has experience will be re aliening everything! If you pull your engine and you have a lot of hours it would be a good time to replace the strut bushing. (Cutlass bearing). I see your boat is not very old but its a big job if you need to do it down the road.  And a good shop that will respect your boat! A lot of interior that could be messed up from a guy doing quick job.    

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If this is something you would want to do yourself, my shop is warm enough in April. Drive on up to Appleton area, though I have no immediate experience with a v-drive.  I might be doing DD in spring though. :)

 

Edited by footndale
  • Like 3
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42 minutes ago, footndale said:

If this is something you would want to do yourself, my shop is warm enough in April. Drive on up to Appleton area, though I have no immediate experience with a v-drive.  I might be doing DD in spring though. :)

There you go!

To the OP, I am no mechanic, but I pulled and reinstalled my DD boat.  It's really pretty simple.

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Just now, Michigan boarder said:

There you go!

To the OP, I am no mechanic, but I pulled and reinstalled my DD boat.  It's really pretty simple.

V-drive isn't quite as simple.  Still doable but you are pulling out of a much smaller/tighter hole than just being able to remove your doghouse and picking the engine straight up. The axis I worked on last week wouldn't be too bad, my vtx would be much tighter.

Edited by oldjeep
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I know, but the basics are likely still the same.  I would do it. 

Take a ton of pics, lots of close ups before removing anything.  Heck, start a thread here and you'll get some pros to walk you through it.

Just for kicks:

Engine pull #3 compressed.JPGEngine on trailer #2 compressed.JPGEngine pull #4 compressed.JPG#5 piston compressed.jpg

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11 minutes ago, Michigan boarder said:

I know, but the basics are likely still the same.  I would do it. 

Take a ton of pics, lots of close ups before removing anything.  Heck, start a thread here and you'll get some pros to walk you through it.

Just for kicks:

Engine pull #3 compressed.JPGEngine on trailer #2 compressed.JPGEngine pull #4 compressed.JPG#5 piston compressed.jpg

Nice work location.  I've got a trolley hoist on the ceiling of my shop but not enough ceiling height to pull the engine out of my boat - maybe if I dropped the trailer on its discs. (Kind of a mess at the moment, just got rid of the 53 ford project and haven't cleaned up yet)

WP_20161016_18_29_15_Pro.jpg

Edited by oldjeep
  • Like 1
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Just now, oldjeep said:

Nice work location.  I've got a trolley hoist on the ceiling of my shop but not enough ceiling height to pull the engine out of my boat - maybe if I dropped the trailer on its discs.

Yep - had to do that actually to straddle the axle and get the lift in close enough:

Engine pull #5 compressed.JPGNew engine going in boat compressed.jpg

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FWIW: A dealer once quoted me that an engine removal was a minimum 16 hour job. Seems like a lot. I think a good mechanic could get an engine pulled and reinstalled in 8-12 hours (4-6 hours per removal/install).

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30 minutes ago, lukehartwig said:

FWIW: A dealer once quoted me that an engine removal was a minimum 16 hour job. Seems like a lot. I think a good mechanic could get an engine pulled and reinstalled in 8-12 hours (4-6 hours per removal/install).

Holy Crap!  Cars take a lot less time and there are more wires/hoses connected to none engine parts.

Must be remove a bolt, drink 4 beers, remove another bolt, etc.

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1 hour ago, lukehartwig said:

FWIW: A dealer once quoted me that an engine removal was a minimum 16 hour job. Seems like a lot. I think a good mechanic could get an engine pulled and reinstalled in 8-12 hours (4-6 hours per removal/install).

for a vdrive or dd? I just paid a dealer for a new engine and 16 hours is not even close I think it was maybe 16 for removal and install. More work on a vdrive due to more interior needs to be removed. On my dd I did, it was a cake walk, pull engine and transmission out at same time... disconnect start, alternator, and ecu wires, disconnect fuel lines, 12 bolts and out (4 from engine mount, 4 on transmission mount, 4 on propshaft).  

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Talked with a mechanic today and he figured 5-7 hours if all he has to do is the main work. So I would pull the locker covers, engine cover, and drain fluids. He would lift it high enough to access pan etc. Get it done in April when he is slow.

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1 hour ago, footndale said:
1 minute ago, jrvs23 said:

Talked with a mechanic today and he figured 5-7 hours if all he has to do is the main work. So I would pull the locker covers, engine cover, and drain fluids. He would lift it high enough to access pan etc. Get it done in April when he is slow.

 

 

so he isn't going to remove it and put it on a stand so he can flip it over?  Pull and replace the pan with it dangling? Out of curiosity, what shop is it?

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Correct, his plan was to not remove it fully. He is in Madison and was recommended by another member who has had work done there before. This is just the first guy I spoke with and have not committed to anything yet. I've been there a couple of times and he always has several malibu's being worked on. 

Is not pulling it and putting on a stand sending up a red flag for you?

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52 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

so he isn't going to remove it and put it on a stand so he can flip it over?  Pull and replace the pan with it dangling? Out of curiosity, what shop is it?

I would like to pull my DD monsoon, swap in the new 7 qt  morose oil pan engine nut sold me. I had no idea I should flip the engine over to install it. I can't figure out how to lift the engine high enough to clear the hull.  Maybe rent a fork lift or a crane. The other thing is where do I stop as I might as well put in a new flex plate and some new strut bushing/bearings. I think I need a better work shop first. 

 

 

 

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3 minutes ago, Bozboat said:

I would like to pull my DD monsoon, swap in the new 7 qt  morose oil pan engine nut sold me. I had no idea I should flip the engine over to install it. I can't figure out how to lift the engine high enough to clear the hull.  Maybe rent a fork lift or a crane. The other thing is where do I stop as I might as well put in a new flex plate and some new strut bushing/bearings. I think I need a better work shop first. 

 

 

 

It is just easier to get the gasket surface clean and place the new gasket and pan if you have the engine upside down. I've done plenty of pans laying under trucks, but if the engine was coming out I'd never do it upside down.

in your case you might consider just using an engine stand inside the boat, put down a piece of plywood and some plastic on the carpet.

Edited by oldjeep
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24 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

It is just easier to get the gasket surface clean and place the new gasket and pan if you have the engine upside down. I've done plenty of pans laying under trucks, but if the engine was coming out I'd never do it upside down.

in your case you might consider just using an engine stand inside the boat, put down a piece of plywood and some plastic on the carpet

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6 hours ago, footndale said:

If this is something you would want to do yourself, my shop is warm enough in April. Drive on up to Appleton area, though I have no immediate experience with a v-drive.  I might be doing DD in spring though. :)

 

Thanks for the offer I really appreciate it. My confidence with "simple" projects is shot right now. I'll need the winter to get my head right.

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1 hour ago, jrvs23 said:

Correct, his plan was to not remove it fully. He is in Madison and was recommended by another member who has had work done there before. This is just the first guy I spoke with and have not committed to anything yet. I've been there a couple of times and he always has several malibu's being worked on. 

Is not pulling it and putting on a stand sending up a red flag for you?

not necessarily a red flag, just kind of a shade tree fix doing it with the engine hanging. As long as he gets the pan to seal properly it is a way to save time.

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I've considered pulling mine back out and replacing the oil pan with one of these because the original Indmar pan has the sump on the run end for a V-drive boat.  Would fix the oil starvation problems while accelerating with ballast.

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/product/18-110T/18-110T---SBC-86-MARINE-OIL-PAN-REVERSE-MOUNT/

IMG_4280-46lr_zpsmyhqx6vb.jpg

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1 hour ago, jrvs23 said:

Thanks for the offer I really appreciate it. My confidence with "simple" projects is shot right now. I'll need the winter to get my head right.

Don't beat yourself up. 

I'm guessing you are talking with Rich's. If so he likes to take snowboarding trips close to end of ski season.

Edited by footndale
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