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ToddyP5

Heater Core Lines? Tranny Cooler, Pics?

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ToddyP5

Hi Crew!  First post, first Malibu (07' 21.5' LSX Sunscape w/340 monsoon) and first time winterizing.

I have a heater and I am struggling to find my "heater" lines on the engine, as well as my transmission cooler and flame arrestor.  Does anyone have a visual diagram or pictures of where these are?  I know it's in the manual and I have watched the PPT video, but I still seem to not be 100% sure I have drained them and fogged the arrestor when it is off the engine.

Last dumb question, but where my water intake comes up through the hull I have a on/off plumbing lever that feeds the first water hose into my V-Drive.  It looks aftermarket...why do you think this is here?  To shut off water intake into the engine or is it used for the winterizing process?

I have searched extensively on the site and web to no avail, but maybe I am missing it.  I cannot believe how much I have learned from the Crew site though, so I know my first post is in good hands.

I am in MN, boat being stored indoors, but not heated, so I want to make EXTRA sure I have done this right. 

Thanks all!

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oldjeep

Easiest way to find where your heater core lines are is to sit in the compartment that is to the right of the engine and find the 2 heater lines that run from the engine compartment forward and just follow them back to the block.    Flame arrestor is likely tucked in on right side next to pylon.  Trans cooler on mine is right side

The valve on your intake line is factory, it is so you can close it and don't sink if a hose blows on the water.

 

My .02 - don't fog MPI engines through the intake, fog through the plugs.

 

Where in MN are you?

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ToddyP5

Old Jeep -

Thanks for the advice, I will try and find the listed things when I am actually sitting in boat not at a desk.  I am in Shoreview, MN near WBL. 

If I fog the plugs, how do I move the cylinders w/o firing or having gas spray into them?

 

 

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oldjeep
Just now, ToddyP5 said:

Old Jeep -

Thanks for the advice, I will try and find the listed things when I am actually sitting in boat not at a desk.  I am in Shoreview, MN near WBL. 

If I fog the plugs, how do I move the cylinders w/o firing or having gas spray into them?

 

 

You can rotate the engine by hand if the plugs are out using the crank pulley.  I typically don't bother fogging cylinders if it is just going to sit for the winter, but when I do I just shoot the spray in where ever the piston is sitting and don't worry about the part of the cylinder exposed to the crank case.

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Michigan boarder
6 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

You can rotate the engine by hand if the plugs are out using the crank pulley.  I typically don't bother fogging cylinders if it is just going to sit for the winter, but when I do I just shoot the spray in where ever the piston is sitting and don't worry about the part of the cylinder exposed to the crank case.

ToddyP5 - hope you don't mind me jumping in here.

oldjeep - that is my plan, since I pulled my plugs to check their condition and drained the water before fogging.  So - is a 1 second squirt of fogging oil sufficient in each cylinder?  Or is 2 seconds better?  Fog all 8, rotate engine via crank pulley, then install plugs, correct?

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oldjeep
1 minute ago, Michigan boarder said:

ToddyP5 - hope you don't mind me jumping in here.

oldjeep - that is my plan, since I pulled my plugs to check their condition and drained the water before fogging.  So - is a 1 second squirt of fogging oil sufficient in each cylinder?  Or is 2 seconds better?  Fog all 8, rotate engine via crank pulley, then install plugs, correct?

When I fog cylinders it is just a quick squirt, more isn't going to hurt unless you really get carried away.  If you want to be super picky you rotate each piston to the bottom and then fog that cylinder.  Like I said though that isn't something I bother doing for short term storage (6 months).

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Michigan boarder
1 minute ago, oldjeep said:

When I fog cylinders it is just a quick squirt, more isn't going to hurt unless you really get carried away.  If you want to be super picky you rotate each piston to the bottom and then fog that cylinder.  Like I said though that isn't something I bother doing for short term storage (6 months).

Got it - thanks!

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tvano

add an item to your layup list: cycle hull shut-off valve closed then open.

if you never cycle that valve then there is a slim chance that you can move it in an emergency on the water.

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oldjeep
8 minutes ago, tvano said:

add an item to your layup list: cycle hull shut-off valve closed then open.

if you never cycle that valve then there is a slim chance that you can move it in an emergency on the water.

Excellent thought - More importantly do that with your ballast through hull valves since the plastic pumps are more likely to break than any of the below waterline engine hoses.

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ToddyP5

Found the heater hoses, tranny/oil cooler, did the blow method and compressed air, and kicked a bunch of water out.  I would have replaced a heater core for sure without doing this method so thank you Crew and Old Jeep.

I wish there was a trick to get the zinc/bolts/drains out of my V Drive that are pressed firmly against my fuel tank now!  Knuckle busters! 

I feel lost that winter is coming and this boat is going away!

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oldjeep
28 minutes ago, ToddyP5 said:

Found the heater hoses, tranny/oil cooler, did the blow method and compressed air, and kicked a bunch of water out.  I would have replaced a heater core for sure without doing this method so thank you Crew and Old Jeep.

I wish there was a trick to get the zinc/bolts/drains out of my V Drive that are pressed firmly against my fuel tank now!  Knuckle busters! 

I feel lost that winter is coming and this boat is going away!

I never have pulled the drain plugs on the v-drive.  I just pull the hoses off of it, and honestly that is kind of a waste of time since it really self drains right out the inlet on the bottom of the boat (at least in my boat)

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ToddyP5

Old Jeep -

How do you know when the Zinc bolts go bad then, as it says in manual to check them and if 50% ain't there to swap them out?

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oldjeep
1 hour ago, ToddyP5 said:

Old Jeep -

How do you know when the Zinc bolts go bad then, as it says in manual to check them and if 50% ain't there to swap them out?

Never seen that in my manual, guess I had better look for it.

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