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Ballast Upgrade Dual Fill & Drain Pump on Rear PNP


The Hulk

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7 hours ago, NWBU said:

Doesn't the run-dry feature shut off the reversible when the bag is empty now?

I don't know.. I was planning to tie them into maliview via relays .. not sure how well the run dry works.. that's the big question... would be nice if there was a flow detection relay you could add to the hose to shut them off after 5-10s if no flow detected. If they don't shut off automatically then I'd bet they would last a few weeks tops with me forgetting to shut them off.. $315 each ouch. 

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8 hours ago, NWBU said:

Doesn't the run-dry feature shut off the reversible when the bag is empty now?

No, its not designed as a timer function to sense that the sac is empty, and shut the pump down. Its intended to protect the pump and impeller from excessive dry running time. It takes time for enough load to build up to activate the shut down. This could be a few minutes after the sac is empty, by your perspective, or many minutes if there is enough residual water left to lube the impeller, even though the sac loos empty. 

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51 minutes ago, MLA said:

No, its not designed as a timer function to sense that the sac is empty, and shut the pump down. Its intended to protect the pump and impeller from excessive dry running time. It takes time for enough load to build up to activate the shut down. This could be a few minutes after the sac is empty, by your perspective, or many minutes if there is enough residual water left to lube the impeller, even though the sac loos empty. 

Gotcha, thanks.

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1 hour ago, The Hulk said:

I don't know.. I was planning to tie them into maliview via relays .. not sure how well the run dry works.. that's the big question... would be nice if there was a flow detection relay you could add to the hose to shut them off after 5-10s if no flow detected. If they don't shut off automatically then I'd bet they would last a few weeks tops with me forgetting to shut them off.. $315 each ouch. 

The replacement impellers are $30 and easy to replace. I'm going to pull mine this spring to see if I did any damage to them last summer.

  • Like 1
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On 1/28/2017 at 6:35 AM, The Hulk said:

I don't know.. I was planning to tie them into maliview via relays .. not sure how well the run dry works.. that's the big question... would be nice if there was a flow detection relay you could add to the hose to shut them off after 5-10s if no flow detected. If they don't shut off automatically then I'd bet they would last a few weeks tops with me forgetting to shut them off.. $315 each ouch. 

As stated impellers are $30, but also if you really wanted to, you could add a few check valves and a Y fitting and have it drain above water. 

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22 hours ago, 05hammerhead said:

As stated impellers are $30, but also if you really wanted to, you could add a few check valves and a Y fitting and have it drain above water. 

agree, just seems to be a lot more work vs the standard pumps just adding a second one, 2 extra holes but easier/cheaper hardly any electrical etc.. probably just going to go this route double my speed and see how it works out: the 1200s with some pressure will still be likely as good as the highest 960 reversibles.. I do like the ability to suck them flat with reversibles, but my current "standrd setup" doesnt do too bad.

I think i'm set on taking this route:

add one more standard 1200, then an additional one for draining on back of the bag. two fill and two draining on each side.

Vent the top of the bag and "Y" connect it into the existing hard tank vent or possible make separate vent hole in side for bag only. add an "always" shut elec ball valve and connect it to the fill pump wires so when you hit fill the ball valve opens, to allow the water to spit out/over-flow out the vent, when you turn off fill, the vent ball valve shuts no passive draining. then i can pugrade to 1100-1200 bags and hopefully fill them to 900-1k which will be higher then the loop in the gunnel. Should be able to get this done pretty cheap, apart from what dealer will charge me to throw some holes in the boat... i cringe at drilling holes myself in my boat! ha

the question is basically the VENT lines: if i tie them together with a "T" fitting hard tank + bag, and put the elec ball valve there to shut it off, it would be CLOSED during draining, but not sure how that would affect the Hard tank after the sac is depleted and no air is going into the hard tank. i doubt the aerator pumps could collapse the hard tank, but i wonder if slight pressure over time would slowly deform it or is there enough leakage in the system this is nothing to worry about or will no venting in the hard tank slow down the draining becasue the hard tank is not collapsing like the bags? if this is the case then i have two options

1. wire the elec ball vale also to the drain pumps so the ball valve opens when filling, and opens when draining: but then this might cause the bag not to deflate flat, ....or "as flat"

2. use two separate elec ball valves, on each hard tank vent and bag vent> when filling both are open, when draining only hard tank ball valve opens... bag valve stays shut to help the sac go flatter...

 

 

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23 minutes ago, The Hulk said:

agree, just seems to be a lot more work vs the standard pumps just adding a second one, 2 extra holes but easier/cheaper hardly any electrical etc.. probably just going to go this route double my speed and see how it works out: the 1200s with some pressure will still be likely as good as the highest 960 reversibles.. I do like the ability to suck them flat with reversibles, but my current "standrd setup" doesnt do too bad.

I think i'm set on taking this route:

add one more standard 1200, then an additional one for draining on back of the bag. two fill and two draining on each side.

Vent the top of the bag and "Y" connect it into the existing hard tank vent or possible make separate vent hole in side for bag only. add an "always" shut elec ball valve and connect it to the fill pump wires so when you hit fill the ball valve opens, to allow the water to spit out/over-flow out the vent, when you turn off fill, the vent ball valve shuts no passive draining. then i can pugrade to 1100-1200 bags and hopefully fill them to 900-1k which will be higher then the loop in the gunnel. Should be able to get this done pretty cheap, apart from what dealer will charge me to throw some holes in the boat... i cringe at drilling holes myself in my boat! ha

the question is basically the VENT lines: if i tie them together with a "T" fitting hard tank + bag, and put the elec ball valve there to shut it off, it would be CLOSED during draining, but not sure how that would affect the Hard tank after the sac is depleted and no air is going into the hard tank. i doubt the aerator pumps could collapse the hard tank, but i wonder if slight pressure over time would slowly deform it or is there enough leakage in the system this is nothing to worry about or will no venting in the hard tank slow down the draining becasue the hard tank is not collapsing like the bags? if this is the case then i have two options

1. wire the elec ball vale also to the drain pumps so the ball valve opens when filling, and opens when draining: but then this might cause the bag not to deflate flat, ....or "as flat"

2. use two separate elec ball valves, on each hard tank vent and bag vent> when filling both are open, when draining only hard tank ball valve opens... bag valve stays shut to help the sac go flatter...

 

 

Just remember when overengineering stuff that means you have WAY more stuff that will break. 

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37 minutes ago, 05hammerhead said:

Just remember when overengineering stuff that means you have WAY more stuff that will break. 

Sidenote - I have a masters in Mechanical Engineering, so that means I am a master at overengineering things. Luckily my bank account usually talks me off the edge. 

Edited by 05hammerhead
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