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Erich

V-Drive Oil leak

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Erich

Hi Folks - I'm new to this forum.  I have an 04 VLX that has an oil leak. I have searched the forum and seen several threads on leaks in the v drive and most of them reference pulling the v-drive.  I am pretty certain that the only leak is from the bottom gasket on the v drive since the only place I can find fresh oil after cleaning everything and waiting is around the 4 bolts in the corners of the bottom pan. There is actually no oil around the seal between the pan and the v-drive body - it is just around the bolts.  Can anyone tell me if I can just remove the 4 bolts on the bottom of the v-drive to replace the gasket without pulling the entire v-drive?   It looks to me like the drive will not come out without at least pulling the gas tank.

 

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wdr

On a Walters VD, and I am sure yours is a Walter the 4 bolts are actually screwed into the bottom of the VD. The 4x 9/16" nuts hold the sump pan on and the VD pump oil pick up line connects to the bottom of the pan and to the pump. To remove the sump to replace the gasket, drain the 30w oil, follow the pick up line from the sump up to the pump and remove the brass fitting at the pump. Remove the 4 nuts and drop the pan with the p/u line still attached. Literally that easy if you have small hands. ? Check the 4 pan bolts, mine were crazy loose so I pulled them, degreased them and reinstalled them with loctite before I reinstalled the pan. I had 2 low spots on the mating face of the pan ('06 Walters) from a poor casting so I decked it as much as I could to level the surface. I made my own gasket from some gasket material I bought from an auto parts place and reinstalled with Permatex gasket maker just in case. Refill the VD with just short of 1qt of 30w oil. Going through the sump pick up line to drain with a vacuum pump of some sort and to fill with a Trans funnel was the easiest way to do both IME. Never had a problem after ward. 

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Erich

Thanks so much wdr!  You are correct that it is a Walters VD.  Sounds like an easy job for the fall when I pull the boat. Perhaps my pan bolts are loos as well which may be the root f the problem - I will certainly check when I get the pan off.

 As an aside, I have always pumped as much of the oil out of the hole used to check the oil level (dip stick hole) and then drained the rest out of the bottom drain hole in the pan.  I found over the years that filling it is easiest if I just slowly pour the oil back down the same dip stick hole. It seems to work for me.

P.S. I have big hands...................nothing is easy to work on in this boat for me.  Luckily - she has been super reliable for 13 seasons!

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wdr

Not a problem. If you run in into any problems give me a yell. Might want to pull the top 6 bolts and the plate on top of the VD that the dip stick goes into and check for crud while you are at it. You will see the VD cooling line sitting in the bottom of that sump when you do. Bill

Edited by wdr

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EchelonMike
11 hours ago, Erich said:

 As an aside, I have always pumped as much of the oil out of the hole used to check the oil level (dip stick hole) and then drained the rest out of the bottom drain hole in the pan.  I found over the years that filling it is easiest if I just slowly pour the oil back down the same dip stick hole. It seems to work for me.

 

I used a clear $0.99 plastic salad dressing bottle from walmart when I changed mine this year.  Like a squeezy ketchup/mustard bottle type thing with a pointed tip.  The tip fits right into the dipstick hole and the bottle holds about a half quart of 30W oil.  Quickly add the ~1 qt back in without spilling a drop.  Good luck with your leak project!

 

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iliketoski

Question, where did you get the new gasket for the sump, (or did you have to make one?)

 

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wdr

Went to OReilly's and bought similar gasket material. In this application "it ain't the space shuttle" so any petroleum compatible gasket material will do.

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