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25 LSV Surf Wave


The Hulk

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2 minutes ago, The Hulk said:

 

command center wheel: whats the upgrade cost on this? how many of the same buttons do you need? looks cool but i'm guessing they probably charge a ton for it?

 

$1208.00

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Oh, the other option I added was the fire suppression system.  After having an issue on the 2016 with my wife, kids and another family of 4 on board this summer that became a priority.  

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Just now, TheRockofMaryland said:

Oh, the other option I added was the fire suppression system.  After having an issue on the 2016 with my wife, kids and another family of 4 on board this summer that became a priority.  

a what?

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Just now, The Hulk said:

a what?

Dealer told me it is essentially a charged fire extinguisher, with tubes all around the engine compartment.  When the device is triggered it will deploy.  So if you happen to have an engine fire, you will not need to open the engine hatch and attempt find your extinguisher and blow it into the fire.  

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/7/2016 at 11:34 AM, The Hulk said:

two Rev 8's will be fine and they are LOUD its just a matter of how deaf you wanna go nowadays.. 

Snap out carpet is what i have with a cheap $50 battery powered vacuum cleaner: works great: i cant decide if i like the teak deckadance stuff they use now or not... .

Power Lift seat: sorry forgot about that one but yes its a MUST! especially with the women!

Backup camera: i show people mine and thats the extent of it ...hardly use it but mine came with it...cool but the camera is not that great slightly delayed and poor resolution IMO so i would do a delete on that:

Mirror: i miss my tower mirror but i also hated it at times... ive got the window PTM clamp mirror that should be in sometime soon. we'll see how it goes....yes i agree its the only downside to a g4.

Transom remote: i have had them on both my boats and like it for being at the sandbar: i think they are like $350... it can very quickly and easily be added later.. if your sandbaring a lot you might want it, but if you dont chill at a sandbar all day then forget it.. 

Surf Pipe: if your looking to make it quiter maybe..i have mixed feelings on adding it if you have enough weight its not a big deal IMO... plus on a 25 you surf way further back making it less of an issue IMO... personal preference i guess. 

top deck color: if your worried about it being hot get the top deck track pads/foam stuff which is black anyways.. 

all the towers i have seen are always black: my boat was the first one id seen in person with white and i love it..."different" and it just looks super clean with my boat color scheme... 

if your trailer a lot then get black because bugs on white SUCKS!!! they blend in with black much nicer! haha. also one thing i love about the G4 is locking down for trailering i trailer only a few hrs a year for service and winterization but i freaking hate cleaning bugs off a tower...swear i can clean the whole boat quicker than a tower and bugs.. for the round bar part of a g3.5 i would keep chrome for that reason alone smoother/easier to clean than powder coated texture finish...

yea i was exactly like you:: G23, or 23 LSV, gave Centurion a quick looks but didnt want to get hosed on resale around here.. i'm sure they will get better with time but still felt like they were over-priced for the name/brand although their waves are legit from what i read..i also thought the Ri color schemes and patterns are kind of blaaa looking.. . long story short the 25 is legit as well....now that there is a 25'7" Ri257...may have to consider that in 5yrs when my warranty is up...but who knows what Bu will have by then as well.. 

when your spending this kind of money it is kind of like house shopping in all honesty! nickle and dime ya to death on options.. 

G3.5 is nice and the best one yet by FAR! but not locking down during trailering was what sold me. i also dont like speakers in the head space on the G3.5 and that i cant swing boards in all the way to clear my lift> now that the new ones have bimini top that can hold boards its less of an issue.. and you can always add PTMs to your G3.5 but at that point go G4.

command center wheel: whats the upgrade cost on this? how many of the same buttons do you need? looks cool but i'm guessing they probably charge a ton for it?

sounds like an awesome build! 

Hulk & The Rock of Maryland - Thank you for your input!

I ordered my boat targeted for an April delivery!  

I heeded the advice and went with the G4 tower.  Even though they're not often configured locally with the G4, I agree that the tower will be a differentiator when selling....and after going through the process to lower and lock the tower down, I was sold.  I like the idea of towing with the tower down, and the process of locking should take the stress off the tower shocks when storing down too.

I chose the surf exhaust, I spoke to a family advisor and he swears by them - and it was relatively inexpensive as part of the build (~$800 list).  I skipped the new steering wheel, although it would be nice, I had to draw the line somewhere and although its a bit more convenient a 3rd controller for the same options seems like overkill. 

I chose the Phender Pro quick release system, it doesn't seem necessary but anything that will help my crew when docking and anything to protect the boat seems like a good investment.

A decisions that I'm still on the fence about  (i guess I can still make changes for the next couple months):

*Shower - I skipped assuming I would never use, but I've been second guessing that decision (I'm also unsure of the cost) [Hulk- I think I saw a post of yours about building your own system, a good option but I'm thinking that having it done at factory might be a better choice for me, the stock location seems pretty good too]

Thanks again!

 

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@Zinger skip the shower install and show your dealer the thread and they can install it for you there: if you have the factory do it, i think you will regret the standard location. your going to be out the same money regardless but i think you will like it in the rear tubs as @Wakesetter67 has shown although take note on his comments: Perhaps he will update with a new photo of the final install and i will as well once i pull the boat in for winter in a week or two and work on all that stuff. having to open the hatch to access the shower is a PIA especially when where you need it is on the swim platform. so having it in one of the rear tubs will be best plus they are wasted space anyhow. i simply store my auger bars and rope for the augers in one so i can access them easily from the water when pulling up to the sandbar, the other is going to be the shower and hose. 

 

i'm not sure on the shower cost but i think it will be around $500-800 depending on which heatercraft kit you decide on. You could also do the tub install and everything then just have your dealer do the finishing touches to connect it to the engine. I'm not sure how it works on these new engines and if its the same line as the heaters or not...so i'm the wrong person to ask as i have not dove into my project yet.  this is also the reason i'm holding up on the heater install (via factory method) want to get my boat in the warehouse here and take a few hours to look around and see if there is a better place that might be more praticle and possibly see if the 6-port heater outlet with some smaller lines running through the boat would be better or not... 

i think you will be happy with the G4...hard pll to swallow but after you use more you will appreciate it more. 

the biggest draw back is the rear bag filling times when you add the "T" shapped 700-750s or whatever... really need a dual fill/dual drain which i plan to meet with my dealer about in a week or two and discuss various options. I feel like i'm edging to adding reversibles but they are so slow in their ratings at a MIN i'm going to add additional 1100 through hulls and 1100s on the bottom back of the BAGS. you can follow the other thread i have going on this as well...but its something you should consider.. what makes me upset is that if some of the holes were about 0.25" further from the engine i could probably swap the factory 1100s with 2000s surflows pretty easily but they are too darn close to the engine so i may have to get creative.. and FYI these new boats have about zilch for unused space!! i cant even get my arm under the engine..

also one complaint i have and perhaps you can address is that the rear drain pumps are NOT easily accessible i just noticed this: its a MAJOR operation if you have to replace a 1100 pump, at least on a 2016. the ENTIRE floor panel has to be removed and in order to do that you need to remove the side-panel track etc.. its not like the old boats that had an access panel on the back: it would probably take over an hour or two to replace a bad drain pump rather than 10 mins. I may see about cutting my floor and making an access panel.Not sure if thats something that you could request seems like it would be easy from the factory IMO. Oh and a $50 sub box!! haha

 

congrats! 

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