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Crank but no start Scooby Doo Mystery


proudboatowner

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I have an axis t22 2015 with a monsoon 350. It ran great on Thursday and would not start Friday afternoon. There's fuel pressure at the fuel rail. We get spark at all the spark plugs and we've changed the cap and rotor. There are 250 hours on the boat and the spark plugs are original. We didn't see any loose connections in the fuse box under the hood or anything noticeably wrong with the wiring harness to the ECU. There are no check engine lights and the computer registers no codes. I would happily buy a case of beer for the person that helps me figure this thing out.

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Swapped the fuel pump and ignition relays, there was no change.  Are you referring to the kill switch with the lanyard?   It is in the up possition.

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Just now, proudboatowner said:

Swapped the fuel pump and ignition relays, there was no change.  Are you referring to the kill switch with the lanyard?   It is in the up possition.

Try jumping the kill switch.  Make sure it has not failed.  

 

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check the wires on the back of the lanyard switch, I've seen them rattle loose. I don't remember if the circuit is supposed to be open or closed, but checking the switch with a meter and possibly holding the wires together while trying to start might help...

  • Like 1
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do your gauges come up when this is happening?  Like you go to key up.... do you get the beeeeeeeeep?  And if you flip the kill switch what happens?

Crank but no fire is consistent with kill switch.

 

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The kill switch appears to be working properly.  Dash will illuminate and will crank in the up position and turn off all power when down.  

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There should be at least one 50A pushbutton style fuse/breaker on the engine that would keep the ECU from coming on, check that high-amp breaker and it usually only happens with older boats, but the "cannon" plug (where the wiring harness mates to the engine) check those connections to make sure they're tight. Maybe unplug and replug the connections.

I don't think the starter will crank with the throttle out of the neutral position, but you could check the throttle isn't the problem by disconnecting the leads at the v-drive transmission. I don't know exactly how to do this, but I've seen recent posts discussing it.

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The only breaker that we see in the engine compartment is the 10 amp on the engine.  We bypassed it, and had no luck.  That was actually the first thing we checked, because it was replaced earlier in the season due to corrosion.

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2 hours ago, shawndoggy said:

switch fuel and ignition relays with starter relay (because you know it's good)?

The starter relay is larger than the other two, so we swapped the fuel pump and ignition relays.   We get a recharge of the fuel lines after checking the Schrader valve then turning the key back on.

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Well you either aren't getting spark or you aren't getting fuel.  

Will it run for a few seconds on starter fluid down the plenum (insert appropriate caveats/precautions here re backfires)?

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No it quit working while it was sitting on my left. We ran it on Thursday and it stopped working before we started it on Friday. We change the cap and rotor under the recommendation of the dealership, but that wasn't the culprit.

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Just now, proudboatowner said:

Haven't actually tried that. We've kicked it around as an idea but we're not sure about the relative safety of the procedure.

If you act reasonably it's not terribly dangerous.  Don't stick your face over the intake plenum, etc.  Unlikely to cause atomic fireball.

 

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Sounds like plug wires mixed up. Just because it has spark doesn't mean it has spark at the right time. Did this on a car a few years ago and replaced everything under the sun for it just to be plug wires mixed up.

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