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NCSurfing

23 LSV wiring harness question

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NCSurfing

Trying to pick up the pieces after my theft and figure out what I will need to rebuild. Can anyone tell me what the red connector is/where it goes as well as the clear one that hangs off of it?

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Edited by NCSurfing

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mikeo

What year is your 23 LSV? My '15 is sitting in front of the house and I can go take a look. If my memory is correct the red/yellow is the stereo "memory" wire so the clock keeps time, I think the white/blue is the "remote trigger" to get the stereo to turn on or to turn on the amps (I'll double check), the yellow should be constant 12v + power to the stereo and black is gound...

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11LSV15

you should be right on that, blue white is usually a remote trigger to turn on amplifiers.  The red yellow would also likely be 12v constant.  My boat is not here to go look to check  but I am confident in that.

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mikeo

BTW: if you have the "sport knob" and want to keep the volume control on the knob and in the 7" display you're going to need to stay with an RFX6000-SX "black box" for the head unit. My guess is that the idiots who took it don't know what it is and will quickly realize they can't do much with it since they don't have the remote display. I'd bet it will turn up in a local pawn shop or on craigslist in the next week or so.

I have mixed feelings about using the RFX6000-SX in a stereo rebuild: I like the integration with the 7" display and sport knob but the quality of the integration has some bugs that haven't been fixed. While I'm sure you want music for the rest of the summer I know I'm interested to see if Rockford Fosgate keeps their contract with Malibu and if the PMX-8BB shows up as a factory head unit for '17. If the PMX-8BB ends up in the boats then there should be a cable that would allow integration with the 7" display.

It looks like the guys at Patrick Industries are getting rid of a complete unit on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROCKFORD-FOSGATE-RFX6000-SX-MARINE-HIDE-AWAY-BLACK-BOX-AM-FM-RECEIVER-/282117078663?hash=item41af7cfe87

I've also purchased from SonicElectronix in the past and they're been reliable:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_97631_Rockford-Fosgate-RFX6000-SX.html

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NCSurfing

Thanks guys!  Mikeo indeed mine is a 15 and if you could take a look that would help a ton.

Apologies for the confusion however, what I am trying to figure out is in the first pic above. There is a red plastic connector that also has a white plastic connector hanging from it (which is what I show in the second pic above).  What do these connect to?  

Reason I ask is that I believe at least one wiring harness left with the amp board since it was connected to the amp that powered my inboats (see pic below) however, I think that plugged into the connector on the back of the RFX-6000 (see pic below) which leaves me confused where the 2 in the above pic go to?

For context, I am trying to assemble a list of what I will need to get this all replaced....a factory wiring diagram would be nice right about now!  

Thanks for helping!!

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Edited by NCSurfing

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shawndoggy

NC -- I think you are looking at the "other side" of the corresponding white plug that is coming out of the black box in your second pic.  

The rub is that Malibu doesn't use industry standard colors for their side of the wiring harness, so in order to tell what any of the wires do, you need the black box side of the harness (which does use industry standard colors) to tie off from.

What I think the red plug might be is a second plug into the black box.  An either-or if you will.  The second plug would also have speaker wire connectivity, so you could power a few speakers from the black box.  So once they pull all of the wiring harnesses on the boat then they figure out if it gets amps or no amps and the stereo people on the line use one plug or the other.  At least that's how I think it looked going from memory on my 14.

what I would do if I wasn't just going to thank my lucky stars that I was insured and someone stole that P.O.S. rockford stuff and I was going to get money in exchange, is just rewire from the ground up.  If the thieves yanked and ripped and tugged everything out (as it looks like they might have from the strain on that plug you are holding) chances are you are going to have intermittent gremlins with your existing wiring.  And Murphy's law says that they'll be the kind of gremlins that only show themselves when you've buttoned up the amp rack.

This wouldn't be a bad time to just treat this as a "do over" where you chose the stereo delete option.  Ditch the Rockford stuff (and its dash integration) and just go with a nice EQ and bluetooth dongle and call it a day.  But I'm a bit of a simpleton when it comes to all that integration.

 

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mikeo

I can't disagree with @shawndoggy on ditching the factory components, unless you want to keep the "factory integration" with the sport knob and dash computer; if you want to keep them then you need to stick with the RFX6000-SX for now. If Medallion & Malibu update the harness to accommodate a PMX-8BB then I know I'll be trying to integrate that in the future. BTW: all my "factory" sound issues went away when I replaced the last Rockford Fosgate amp; no more white noise and low volume levels.

I just took some high-res pictures of the connectors on my '15 and it's easy to get to since I relocated it to take some strain off of the wires in my stereo redesign. Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send you high res images. Here's what I saw: the red connectors go between in in-boat speakers/amp and have the red/yellow, black, yellow, and blue/white wire that then connect to the white connectors going in to the "black box". The red and white block connectors are ~10" apart on the same wiring harness on the boat side.

This brings up a new question: if you have an insurance claim is it just for replacement parts or is it for parts and labor to return it to the prior state? (this may be better asked in the other thread) The reason I ask is if the claim is for both parts AND repair then (other than the current trust issue with the shop) why are working on this yourself? Shouldn't a Malibu dealer, with access to wiring diagrams (and other boats to use as a reference), be working on this?

Also, I'd be pressing the dealer to pull components (RFX6000-SX) from another boat just to get yours back up and running. I know that's only one part and the amps, mounting board, distribution blocks, etc. may be custom/after market and that is really where the loss is.

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NCSurfing
7 hours ago, shawndoggy said:

NC -- I think you are looking at the "other side" of the corresponding white plug that is coming out of the black box in your second pic.  

The rub is that Malibu doesn't use industry standard colors for their side of the wiring harness, so in order to tell what any of the wires do, you need the black box side of the harness (which does use industry standard colors) to tie off from.

What I think the red plug might be is a second plug into the black box.  An either-or if you will.  The second plug would also have speaker wire connectivity, so you could power a few speakers from the black box.  So once they pull all of the wiring harnesses on the boat then they figure out if it gets amps or no amps and the stereo people on the line use one plug or the other.  At least that's how I think it looked going from memory on my 14.

what I would do if I wasn't just going to thank my lucky stars that I was insured and someone stole that P.O.S. rockford stuff and I was going to get money in exchange, is just rewire from the ground up.  If the thieves yanked and ripped and tugged everything out (as it looks like they might have from the strain on that plug you are holding) chances are you are going to have intermittent gremlins with your existing wiring.  And Murphy's law says that they'll be the kind of gremlins that only show themselves when you've buttoned up the amp rack.

This wouldn't be a bad time to just treat this as a "do over" where you chose the stereo delete option.  Ditch the Rockford stuff (and its dash integration) and just go with a nice EQ and bluetooth dongle and call it a day.  But I'm a bit of a simpleton when it comes to all that integration.

 

Thanks for this. Between you and Mikeo, I think I figured it out. I think the white molex that comes off the end of the red molex on the boat side went to the white molex on the back of the RFX for power/ground/turn on. Then I believe I had the white molex pigtail as shown in pic #4 (last in second set of pics) which plugged into the red molex with wire ends into the  amp, which were my speaker wires. This is would be why it's missing as it was easier to unplug it then to take all 4 sets of speaker wires out of the amp. Does that sound right?  Mikeo is sending me some pics of his so hoping to comfirm soon. 

Fair point on the overall replacement. If I planned to own the boat forever, I would do just this. However, I usually trade up every 3 yrs so I try to keep it as plug n play as possible so I can carry my components with me. I kept the POS RF amps and speakers thus, I would put them back before selling and keep my Wetsounds stuff. I share your concern on the pulling of the wires. I spent 2 hrs under there this morning tugging and looking for loose/broken wires, assessing other damage and missing bits and I 'think' I'm fine. Thus, my plan of attack is to get the stock harness assembled the way it was, add the RFX6000 back in and rebuild an amp board. Any thoughts on replacement?  I asked Mikeo his thoughts as well...old system looked like this;

syn4 #1 powered 8 inboats (808s and 650s), syn4 #2 and #3 each powered a pair of rev 8s and the syn1 powered my XXX. Am wondering if I can reduce footprint from 4 to 3 amps and perhaps upgrade to the sinister series?  

Edited by NCSurfing

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shawndoggy

two SD 6s (one for each side of the boat) would power cabins and towers and then a SD 2 for the sub would be pretty rockin.  

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NCSurfing
11 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

two SD 6s (one for each side of the boat) would power cabins and towers and then a SD 2 for the sub would be pretty rockin.  

Man I like this idea. Only challenge is the way it's currently wired....each pair of inboats are wired in parallel and those runs all terminate into the boatside harness. Perhaps I cut the harness out and wire the LH pair of 808s and 650s as well as LH pair of rev 8s to each SD6...is this what you're suggesting? This would give me 585W to each pair....

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MLA
28 minutes ago, NCSurfing said:

Man I like this idea. 

Not me. 

SD-6 for in-boats: 2 pair 8" on 1-4 for 185W to each and 2 pair of 6.5 on 5 and 6 for 145W each.  

SD-2 for the 2 pair rev-8 = 300W. Thats about all they can handle RMS wise. 

SD-2 for woofer

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NCSurfing
4 hours ago, MLA said:

Not me. 

SD-6 for in-boats: 2 pair 8" on 1-4 for 185W to each and 2 pair of 6.5 on 5 and 6 for 145W each.  

SD-2 for the 2 pair rev-8 = 300W. Thats about all they can handle RMS wise. 

SD-2 for woofer

Like this too!  Help me visualize the wiring. 

-Rev8s seem straight forward. Each side is wired in parallel so 1 pair wired to channel 1 and the other in channel 2 which means I am at 620x2 = 310 per pair, each at 155 - that seems light as they are rated at 200?

-As for inboats, I would still need to cut the wires out of the harness, yes? Further, I would need to re-wire the 808s so each runs to a channel (1-4) however, at 185 is this too much as they are rated at 150? Then I would leave the 650s wired as is (in parallel) which means a pair shares 185 so 90ish each which seems fine as these are rated at 100?  The only thing that I don't like about this (assuming I have it right) is rewiring the driver side 808s....I would have to come all the way around the boat :(

Thanks in advance...

Edited by NCSurfing

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MLA
3 minutes ago, NCSurfing said:

I am at 620x2 = 310 per pair, each at 155 - that seems light as they are rated at 200?

620 x 2 means 620W rms output on each of the two chnls when a 2 ohm load is wired to it. A 2 ohm load would be achieved by wiring two 4 ohm speakers in parallel. So, 310 per speaker. 

For the in-boats, the bow and walkway 6.5's are already wired in parallel, just like they where on the P400.4. However, you would need to split off the port side main cabins so each gets wired to its own chnls and same with the STBD side. Not a real hard thing to do. 

11 minutes ago, NCSurfing said:

Then I would leave the 650s wired as is (in parallel) which means a pair shares 185 so 90ish each which seems fine as these are rated at 100?

Each pair would share 290, so as stated above, 145W to each speaker. 

 

12 minutes ago, NCSurfing said:

however, at 185 is this too much as they are rated at 150?

That 150 is a continuous, not peak. 150 is a target to shoot for. 185W to each is golden. Same size icon-8 on the tower, I like to drive at 250W rms. 

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NCSurfing

Glad I replied...all this time I thought I understood amp ratings :). What I was missing in m mind was that wired in parallel = 2 ohms. Now I understand why the 808s would be 185 as they would be 4 ohm but the 650s would be 290 for the pair as they would be 2 ohm. Thanks for the explanation and education!

Seems this is may be the best path - it's just the rewiring of the 808s I would need to sort.

Edited by NCSurfing

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