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MarkP

Prep to trailer 600 miles? What wheel specs to get for spare wheel for 2000 Response LX trailer?

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MarkP

Hello,

I'm about to trailer our 2000 Response LX 600 miles from CT to NC.  In general, what things should I check before doing so?

I plan to replace the tires.  Looking at TireRack, in 205/75R14 I see PowerKing Towmax STR II for $52/ea and Goodyear Marathon Radial for $74/ea.  Those two are listed as "trailer tires" while they have two other tires in this size that are listed for vehicles.  I assume I should stick to the trailer specific tires?  Any reason to choose one of those over the other?  Once it gets down to NC, the trailer is likely doing most of it's trailering less than 5 miles to the boat ramp.  Maybe occasional trips to other lakes ~20 miles, but less likely.

I would like to get a spare wheel/tire for the trip so I don't have to abandon the trailer on the side of the highway in search for a spare tire in a moment's notice.  What are the specs I need to care about for such a replacement wheel?  Obviously it's 14" diameter, but I don't know the width, offset, or bolt pattern dimension.  Is that standard for these trailers or any trailers in general?  I did see on some website at least two different bolt patterns listing 4-1/2" and 4-5/8".

I guess I should grease whatever greasable parts. I guess that is just the wheel hubs. Is there a specific grease and how much should I add (just until it flows out the back and then wipe it up?)

While I'm at it, is there a recommended place to get replacement covers for the foam upright trailer guide things?  I'll tape them up for the ride, but would like to get those looking good again.

Thanks in advance!

boat_trailer1.jpg

 

boat_trailer3.jpg

 

boat_trailer2.jpg

 

Thanks!

Mark

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jwl019
19 minutes ago, MarkP said:

Hello,

I'm about to trailer our 2000 Response LX 600 miles from CT to NC.  In general, what things should I check before doing so?

I plan to replace the tires.  Looking at TireRack, in 205/75R14 I see PowerKing Towmax STR II for $52/ea and Goodyear Marathon Radial for $74/ea.  Those two are listed as "trailer tires" while they have two other tires in this size that are listed for vehicles.  I assume I should stick to the trailer specific tires?  Any reason to choose one of those over the other?  Once it gets down to NC, the trailer is likely doing most of it's trailering less than 5 miles to the boat ramp.  Maybe occasional trips to other lakes ~20 miles, but less likely.

I would like to get a spare wheel/tire for the trip so I don't have to abandon the trailer on the side of the highway in search for a spare tire in a moment's notice.  What are the specs I need to care about for such a replacement wheel?  Obviously it's 14" diameter, but I don't know the width, offset, or bolt pattern dimension.  Is that standard for these trailers or any trailers in general?  I did see on some website at least two different bolt patterns listing 4-1/2" and 4-5/8".

I guess I should grease whatever greasable parts. I guess that is just the wheel hubs. Is there a specific grease and how much should I add (just until it flows out the back and then wipe it up?)

While I'm at it, is there a recommended place to get replacement covers for the foam upright trailer guide things?  I'll tape them up for the ride, but would like to get those looking good again.

Thanks in advance!

 

Thanks!

Mark

 

Mark,

Tires could go either way, I have never had problems with the Goodyear but several people on here have.

Chances are, the bolt pattern is 4-1/2" and you could probably pick a tire up from Tractor Supply already on the rim just so you have one but I would measure to double check.

For 600 miles, I would be tempted to repack the bearings/hubs and would use marine grease.  If you just add grease, you need to figure out what kind of grease was used and try to match it (have heard mixing different types are not good).  It may be overkill, but I just replaced spindles/hubs/bearings/brakes and the whole trailer brake actuator on mine!

For the guide pole pads, you can order them offline (Bakes Marine, Ebay, your closest dealer, etc.)

 

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itznowonder

check your lug wrench that's with your car.. likely not the right size

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Rednucleus

For your spare, make sure the center hole of the wheel fits over your grease fitting. When I got a spare wheel & tire at the local tire place, I had a big surprise when I went to change a flat and the hole was too small - and I was 150 mi from home.

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wdr

I would get the highest load range available for a given tire assuming the cost is reasonable, especially if you plan on trailering a lot or for long distances. The guide pole covers are door prizes when I go to my dealer, free advertising!

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SoDakSooner

I have the Goodyears, but have had a few issues with them, albeit, they were old.  I would get the warranty if you get them from Discount tire. I picked them up in the shop and bought three. With all the mounting, disposal fee and warranty it ended up being $350 or so for three tires.  Warranty is full replacement for three years, and was like $12 per tire.  I don't normally buy tire warranties, but given my track record with these I thought it was a good idea.  I would have switched to the Maxxis 8008 which get good reviews, but already had 2 nearly new Goodyears mounted.(mine is a tandem trailer)

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jrvs23

All good info above. When greasing only enough grease so the spring moves a bit. Otherwise you will have grease everywhere. Use marine grade grease. Whenever you park the trailer get the tires up on some 2x10's or 12's if you park in the yard. The ground/grass will cause the tires to rot faster and flat spot out. Ask me how I know these things:whistle:

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Suggy
20 minutes ago, jrvs23 said:

All good info above. When greasing only enough grease so the spring moves a bit. Otherwise you will have grease everywhere. Use marine grade grease. Whenever you park the trailer get the tires up on some 2x10's or 12's if you park in the yard. The ground/grass will cause the tires to rot faster and flat spot out. Ask me how I know these things:whistle:

What are the 2x12's for when parking on the yard?  Is this only for when the boat is on it?  We store our trailer in an empty lot on grass and the trailer only gets used twice a year (hopefully twice a year).  Thanks!

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09vRide
36 minutes ago, jrvs23 said:

 When greasing only enough grease so the spring moves a bit.

This is great advice.  Overfilling the hubs will result in grease everywhere once they warm up.

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chris4x4gill2
33 minutes ago, Suggy said:

What are the 2x12's for when parking on the yard?  Is this only for when the boat is on it?  We store our trailer in an empty lot on grass and the trailer only gets used twice a year (hopefully twice a year).  Thanks!

He is saying to lay the boards flat and pull the trailer tires onto them so that the tires are not in direct contact with the ground during storage. Should help the tires last longer since they are not directly on moist ground. You would do that with or without the boat on the trailer

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NCVride
49 minutes ago, chris4x4gill2 said:
23 hours ago, MarkP said:

Hello,

I'm about to trailer our 2000 Response LX 600 miles from CT to NC.  In general, what things should I check before doing so?

I plan to replace the tires.  Looking at TireRack, in 205/75R14 I see PowerKing Towmax STR II for $52/ea and Goodyear Marathon Radial for $74/ea.  Those two are listed as "trailer tires" while they have two other tires in this size that are listed for vehicles.  I assume I should stick to the trailer specific tires?  Any reason to choose one of those over the other?  Once it gets down to NC, the trailer is likely doing most of it's trailering less than 5 miles to the boat ramp.  Maybe occasional trips to other lakes ~20 miles, but less likely.

I would like to get a spare wheel/tire for the trip so I don't have to abandon the trailer on the side of the highway in search for a spare tire in a moment's notice.  What are the specs I need to care about for such a replacement wheel?  Obviously it's 14" diameter, but I don't know the width, offset, or bolt pattern dimension.  Is that standard for these trailers or any trailers in general?  I did see on some website at least two different bolt patterns listing 4-1/2" and 4-5/8".

I guess I should grease whatever greasable parts. I guess that is just the wheel hubs. Is there a specific grease and how much should I add (just until it flows out the back and then wipe it up?)

While I'm at it, is there a recommended place to get replacement covers for the foam upright trailer guide things?  I'll tape them up for the ride, but would like to get those looking good again.

Thanks in advance!

boat_trailer1.jpg

 

boat_trailer3.jpg

 

boat_trailer2.jpg

 

Thanks!

Mark

He is saying to lay the boards flat and pull the trailer tires onto them so that the tires are not in direct contact with the ground during storage. Should help the tires last longer since they are not directly on moist ground. You would do that with or without the boat on the trailer

Bingo, always store your trailer parked on boards to help extend the life of tires.  My local tire guy(friend of mine) even said if you want to go further in extending the life, put the trailer on blocks so the tires are off the ground and air the tires down considerably.

 

@MarkP where are you going to be at in NC?  And +10 to whoever said repack your bearings before this trip.  That's a 1 hour job for alot of peace of mind!!!!

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chris4x4gill2

Ill add that sunlight is a killer on tires as well. If your storing outside, especially not using the trailer for an extended period of time, id think about tire covers of some kind. Probably not too convenient if your trailering every weekend, but sometging to think about if the boat is on the lift and the trailer is parked in the back yard for the summer.

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MarkP

Thanks for all of the great advice..

NCVride, I'm in Wake Forest (in what I refer to as "North North Raleigh"), right off Fall's Lake.

The boat and trailer will be stored inside a garage year round.  I'll consider jacking the trailer off the wheels in the winter perhaps, but hopefully using it enough the rest of the year to not justify such.

To provide more details to the story, I'm 40 yo, and this has been my mom's boat for the past 14 years.  She bought it in 2002 when it was 2yo from a friend that was a Malibu sales rep and was time for her to get a new model.  My mom has kept the boat well maintained since, but 2 seasons ago her waterskiing lifestyle (as a skier; she still goes out with others) ended when she fell and tore her rotator cuff off the bone at age 68 (plastic peg inserted into bone and muscle reattached).  She is still an active snow ski instructor :) .  My wife and I built a new house and can now accommodate a boat so it's coming to live on its life down here.  My mom will certainly enjoy continuing to go out on the boat here when she comes to visit.

While the boat was winterized 2 seasons ago, there's certainly some concern over the gas that's in it.  I need to find out what exactly was done and if we should siphon it all out.  Also one of the carpeted wooden inner fender liners has rotted apart and needs at least removal and probably repair of some sort to keep debris from flying off tires and hitting boat during drive.  Need to inspect main wooden supports and ensure those are up for the drive as well.  I'll likely replace those as well at some point, just would prefer to do it once I'm down in NC with all my tools and time.

My mom has a grease gun with the marine grease cartridge matching what was used before.  I'll confirm when last added and likely just keep using that if they look in good shape otherwise.

She said there doesn't appear to be any springs on these trailers.  Is that true/normal? I know the Load Rite jetski trailer I just bought to trailer my wife's Jetski down from NJ (it made more financial & labor sense to sell the old one and buy new vs repairing the old one) a few months back has leaf springs.  Now that I think about the Malibu trailer, the protective frame below the inboard prop/shaft rides pretty low to the ground.  Any lower due to spring play I would thing would risk bottoming out, so maybe there is indeed not any springs.

I bet I need to at least replace some bulbs or entire light units as well for turn signals.  We'll see how good they lasted...

Obviously, I'll confirm the ball size and have the right one with me.  I think it's 2".  Yes, I'll also bring a bunch of tools including the lug size, breaker bar, maybe even my floor jack to be ready to do repairs in CT and along the drive.

It's looking like I'll drive up to CT a week from today (7/28) and see how much I can get figured out and buy parts while shops are open Thurs/Fri, additional work over weekend as needed, backup day there on Monday if needed, and drive back Tues.  We'll see...

Guess I need to get those tires ordered ASAP...

Oh, the boat is still in the winterized wrap as shown in pics. If it looks well wrapped still, shall I drive it like that, or remove that and use the normal covers or no covers at all?

I'll make sure to add straps at the front and rear to secure to trailer.

Thanks!

Mark

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MarkP

I see that if I get the Goodyears (assuming 3 tires), I can get them cheaper from Discount Tire Direct ($262) primarily because if I ship them to CT, DTD doesn't have sales tax while Tire Rack ($282) does (since they have a warehouse there).

Looking at the other offerings, DTD's cheapest tire is Carlisle Sport Trail LH at $59/ea with free ship.  3 of those (if I found 3rd rim standalone) would run $177 total, while cheapest Tire Rack tire Powerking Towmax STR II would be $52/ea plus shipping and tax = $210.

Any advice on any of those?  Any reason I shouldn't get the cheapest, Carlisle?

Discount Tire Direct: http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/searchTiresBySize.do?sortBy=prca&ar=75&fqs=true&rd=14&cs=205

Tire Rack: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?zip-code=&width=205/&ratio=75&diameter=14&rearWidth=255/&rearRatio=40&rearDiameter=17

 

Also, while getting photos of the springs (indeed they are there), I noticed what looks like a bent axle.  Is this as designed or is this damage?  I wonder if I'll see outer edge tire wear if indeed this is damage.  I mean I assume it has to be, else the hubs aren't axially (no pun intended) aligned, unless compensated at each end, but that seems like a lot of trouble for a boat trailer axle design.  Thus seems like damage is most likely case:

My red line is straight to note gap between line and axle, circled in yellow:

boat_trailer4.jpg

Edited by MarkP

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MadMan
26 minutes ago, MarkP said:

 

Also, while getting photos of the springs (indeed they are there), I noticed what looks like a bent axle.  Is this as designed or is this damage?  I wonder if I'll see outer edge tire wear if indeed this is damage.  I mean I assume it has to be, else the hubs aren't axially (no pun intended) aligned, unless compensated at each end, but that seems like a lot of trouble for a boat trailer axle design.  Thus seems like damage is most likely case:

 

Trailer axles commonly have a camber bend in them when they are built.  It's usually "bent up" in the center.  That appears to be toward one side. 

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MarkP
34 minutes ago, MadMan said:

Trailer axles commonly have a camber bend in them when they are built.  It's usually "bent up" in the center.  That appears to be toward one side. 

Thanks, i had no idea. If so then I'll assume is is centered and just optical illusion of location

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jrvs23

The springs I was referring to is part of the wheel bearing/bearing buddy system. Someone can correct me if I get this a bit wrong. The spring is between the cap/grease zerk and the bearing. It maintains the correct pressure on the bearing holding grease to the bearing. The cap should float kind of freely. That's how you there is enough grease in there.

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SoDakSooner

Looks bent to me....not the good kind, but without the right visual perspective, hard to tell.  Look at the current tire for crazy wear pattern.

No personal experience but with all my research, most people i have read say to stay away from the Carslisles, especially the cheap ones.

BTW...If you have a discount tire store close, they'll do all the work for you. It was just easier for me as they took care of disposal, mounting, new stems, etc....unless  you have the tools you'll have to have someone mount them anyway.  The actual tires in store and online were the same price  

 

 

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MarkP

Found these wheels/tires for sale.  Asking the owner to confirm the lug pattern size and if so will pick these up as spares.  The holes in the center look like they are as large as they reasonably can be to have metal remaining between lug hole and hub hole so I'm assuming these will fit over the hub center piece.  No idea on wheel offset, but it seems like I haven't read any details of wheel offsets for trailers so hoping these are all the same and there won't be any fitment issues....

 

00P0P_dQqfA3Y44ot_600x450.jpg

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oldjeep

Trailer wheels are all  supposed to be 0 offset

 

Edited by oldjeep

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MarkP

Ok, with more photos now, it seems that the axle is bent down in the center to allow the prop to clear and then the other bend up is likely intentional to make up for the center bend, and thus should be on both sides of the axle.

 

boat_trailer6.jpg

 

boat_trailer7.jpg

Edited by MarkP

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oldjeep

Looks fine.  Main thing besides tires and bearings that I would be worried about is that the brakes are rusted up solid from sitting outside for 2 years.  Make sure you give it a couple good stops before you get too far away from your pickup area just in case they lock up.

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MarkP
8 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

Looks fine.  Main thing besides tires and bearings that I would be worried about is that the brakes are rusted up solid from sitting outside for 2 years.  Make sure you give it a couple good stops before you get too far away from your pickup area just in case they lock up.

Brakes?

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oldjeep
1 minute ago, MarkP said:

Brakes?

I see a surge brake coupler, brake lines and brake drums in the picture, which says to me that trailer has brakes

Edited by oldjeep

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MarkP
44 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

I see a surge brake coupler, brake lines and brake drums in the picture, which says to me that trailer has brakes

Wow, I had no idea. Does that get activated by a standard vehicle tow package lighting connector, or does the vehicle need something special for that?  I'll be towing with a 2014 Audi Q5 TDI with oem tow pkg option.

Certainly my mom has never (14 yrs) hooked up any brakes and has only towed a few miles locally 2x a year to the marina.

 

hitch_cutout_10.jpg

 

 

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