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Wedge Wear and Tear Issues

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All,

The wedge foil on our manual wedge is looking a little worn. I noticed a little play where the foil is bolted to the arms/folding mechanism. It looks like the hex bolts are wearing away the foil to the point where it looks like they might pull through. Any suggestions? can i just replace the foil/fin part?

Thanks!

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Tags

do the hex bolt holes look a lot deeper than they should?

IMG_0659.jpg

Edited by Tags

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Malibudude

On early model manual wedges (wedge and wedge23) there were some bolt issues and where replaced under warranty.  This isn't too common as I never have an issue with my old manual wedge and several of the boats I have been on over the years, nonetheless some did.  I'd recommend Grade 8 stainless hardware & red loctite to replace the stock bolts.  If the wedge bolt holes have be widened due to the movement of the stock bolts, then that will be an issue with simply replacing the stock bolts.  At that point I'd get a hold of your dealer.  It's hard to tell if the holes are deeper than original.  The bolts should be flush or slightly be below the plane of the wedge when tightened.

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17 hours ago, Malibudude said:

On early model manual wedges (wedge and wedge23) there were some bolt issues and where replaced under warranty.  This isn't too common as I never have an issue with my old manual wedge and several of the boats I have been on over the years, nonetheless some did.  I'd recommend Grade 8 stainless hardware & red loctite to replace the stock bolts.  If the wedge bolt holes have be widened due to the movement of the stock bolts, then that will be an issue with simply replacing the stock bolts.  At that point I'd get a hold of your dealer.  It's hard to tell if the holes are deeper than original.  The bolts should be flush or slightly be below the plane of the wedge when tightened.

They appear a lot deeper based on some other photos i have seen online. I'll contact the dealer and see what they say but it doesnt look like you can buy just the wedge/foil part, it comes as one complete unit :(

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Ronnie

You would have to try it for yourself but they make a countersunk lock washers that may take up the slack and help center the wedge plate over the screw holes. As a last resort you could always put hex bolts and large diameter washers in place of the countersunk bolts. There would be a very slight amount of drag on the bolt heads but I'm betting you would never tell the difference. You don't want to keep using it like it is. If the wedge plate breaks loose while your using it, it will damage one of the arms at best or the plate will go to the bottom of the lake if it breaks off.

 

 

Z3KNwyfo5oy.jpg

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minnmarker

If the bolt holes in the strut are good you could determine the bolt size, get some good grade 8 stainless bolts and bushings of the right ID and thickness and (hardest part to find) then drill the foil holes out to fit the OD of the bushing. I've done similar jobs on an antique truck and had to grind the bushing thickness down a bit.

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Tags

thanks for the suggestions. I guess the other option is to have someone add some weld to thicken the area around the holes and then grind it down a little.

I haven't seen the countersunk lockwashers before. Any suggestions on where to get them in stainless?

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mikeo
28 minutes ago, Tags said:

thanks for the suggestions. I guess the other option is to have someone add some weld to thicken the area around the holes and then grind it down a little.

I haven't seen the countersunk lockwashers before. Any suggestions on where to get them in stainless?

McMaster-Carr has everything (except a good way to link to a specific part on their site) so search for "External-Tooth Lock Washers for Countersunk Screws" at mcmaster.com

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Falko

I tried to remove the screws on my wedge last year to lock tite them. I couldn't get them out. I guess I don't have to lock tite them then. But it would be nice to remove the screws and replace so they don't shear eventually.

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