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Calling 1500 Towers (Full Size SUV Especially)


RyanB

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2 minutes ago, RyanB said:

I am extremely hesitant to tow tongue down with surge brakes as I have been told by two trailer repair people that this can cause the brakes to stick, burning them up. Actually had trouble with my last boat and that is what it was blamed on. 

 

Not talking about an extreme angle.  Never had or heard of a problem with brakes sticking from a little down angle.

Adding lead may make getting your boat back on the trailer interesting depending on what your ramps are like.  I'd use some movable people ballast to try that out before doing it for real on a ramp

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My other concern with towing with a lower drop is I already don't have a lot of travel left on my trailer jack. If I go lower, there will be areas where I will have difficulty getting the tongue jack down (tongue being too low to extend jack) should I need to unhook the trailer. 

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Just now, RyanB said:

My other concern with towing with a lower drop is I already don't have a lot of travel left on my trailer jack. If I go lower, there will be areas where I will have difficulty getting the tongue jack down (tongue being too low to extend jack) should I need to unhook the trailer. 

If you have the newer style Fulton F2 Jack you can actually adjust the height of the whole jack assembly if your having trouble swinging it into position or running out of travel at the top, I had to make adjustments on mine.

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4 minutes ago, APoko said:

If you have the newer style Fulton F2 Jack you can actually adjust the height of the whole jack assembly if your having trouble swinging it into position or running out of travel at the top, I had to make adjustments on mine.

I will have to check that. I have not noticed any adjustment but I haven't looked either  

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3 minutes ago, RyanB said:

I will have to check that. I have not noticed any adjustment but I haven't looked either  

Jack_zpsvtx6jutg.png

  • Like 2
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Before you start making changes, I would put a level on the trailer when on level ground to ensure you are level. Then take you boat / truck to a truck stop that has scales and figure out exactly what your total weight of the boat and tongue weight is. 

That way you are not guessing about things and actually have solid information to base the changes on. 

 

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1 hour ago, cowwboy said:

Before you start making changes, I would put a level on the trailer when on level ground to ensure you are level. Then take you boat / truck to a truck stop that has scales and figure out exactly what your total weight of the boat and tongue weight is. 

That way you are not guessing about things and actually have solid information to base the changes on. 

 

I agree.  That is the next step.  Leave for Powell on Wednesday.  Using the truck, so no worries there.  I will weigh when I get back.

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If you stop for fuel at a truck stop that has certified scales it's easy to do. Just drive up and insure the trailer axles, truck front axle, and truck rear axle are on different load cells. Then either leave the trailer by itself on the scales or drop it and re run the truck across the scales. 

 Most places are under 20 to do it both times. 

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5 hours ago, cowwboy said:

If you stop for fuel at a truck stop that has certified scales it's easy to do. Just drive up and insure the trailer axles, truck front axle, and truck rear axle are on different load cells. Then either leave the trailer by itself on the scales or drop it and re run the truck across the scales. 

 Most places are under 20 to do it both times. 

Thanks.  There is a truck stop about 15 minutes from the house.  That is where I weighed the boat prior to purchase.  I will probably just take it out there.

 

Edited by RyanB
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  • 1 month later...

Just a minor update here.  I changed from a 2" drop to a 6" drop, and the boat does tow better, but still not as uneventful as I would like.  My in-laws used it to tow their little pontoon a few weeks back, and mentioned they could feel some trailer sway.  Add that to the fact that when backing down the boat ramp, the boat literally can drag the Yukon down the ramp with the front wheels locked, I am more inclined to believe that the OEM tires might be a large contributing factor.....

  • Like 4
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I tow a 5k lb boat & trailer with a 5.3 & don't have issues with it. But I don't think it would do 7800 very easily, especially hills at freeway speeds. 

Most suggestions I've ever seen say that tow rigs are better off towing 1/2 or 3/4 of their max capacity, not all of it. And suggest using a weight distribution hitch if you do.

Edited by Bill_AirJunky
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On 9/7/2016 at 4:25 PM, oldjeep said:

Well, when the tail weighs more than the dog;) I'd consider electric or electric over hydraulic brakes for the trailer if that was happening. Then you can grab the oh s*** lever and stop the trailer

Pretty much. Or just make sure it's real straight before you get to the steep part of the ramp. Once the boat hits the water you're fine. I have some experience with doing just that on my buddy's 15k commercial boat. 

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8 hours ago, RyanB said:

Where are you getting that a Yukon XL is rated to tow 3500 - 4500???

Looks to be rated at 7800 pounds to me.

http://assets.cobaltnitra.com/teams/repository/export/bfd/bdce0f7501004800300146edef087/bfdbdce0f7501004800300146edef087.pdf

Are you using a weight distributing hitch with torsion bars?

 

so if no 1/2 ton truck can exceed 5k without a WDH... What do you think it is with coil rears?

 

understand that's before GM went SAE on towing specs.  Under today's numbers, you are at around 4K max without a WDH under today's SAE specs.

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10 hours ago, nyryan2001 said:

Are you using a weight distributing hitch with torsion bars?

 

so if no 1/2 ton truck can exceed 5k without a WDH... What do you think it is with coil rears?

 

understand that's before GM went SAE on towing specs.  Under today's numbers, you are at around 4K max without a WDH under today's SAE specs.

Dodge is coil rears and does not require WDH to hit its maximums which is 10,190 (crew cab 4x4).

  • Like 2
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12 hours ago, nyryan2001 said:

Are you using a weight distributing hitch with torsion bars?

 

so if no 1/2 ton truck can exceed 5k without a WDH... What do you think it is with coil rears?

 

understand that's before GM went SAE on towing specs.  Under today's numbers, you are at around 4K max without a WDH under today's SAE specs.

No, I am not using a WDH.  I haven't seen anywhere in the GM manual regarding WDH.  I've read through the GM link above twice, and don't see WDH mentioned anywhere.

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16 minutes ago, RyanB said:

No, I am not using a WDH.  I haven't seen anywhere in the GM manual regarding WDH.  I've read through the GM link above twice, and don't see WDH mentioned anywhere.

Page 18 and 19.

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12 hours ago, nyryan2001 said:

Are you using a weight distributing hitch with torsion bars?

 

so if no 1/2 ton truck can exceed 5k without a WDH... What do you think it is with coil rears?

 

understand that's before GM went SAE on towing specs.  Under today's numbers, you are at around 4K max without a WDH under today's SAE specs.

I know that they Hitch ball and receiver are that way, didn't know the truck was. You got a source for these numbers? I guess I should go look at my manual in the garage

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I still don't see where it specifically calls out WDH as required for 6500 pounds.  It states they are common, but also states two axle boats in the Class III.  And I think you could argue that coils have nothing to do with it - the 2500 RAM has coils.

Not sure how it is in other parts of the country, but the GM full size SUVs are one of the most common tow vehicle for boats in my area.  Launch ramp parking lots are loaded with Yukons, Yukon XL, Tahoe's, Burbs and Escalades towing boats much larger than a 23LSV.  I get passed by them all the time, and I never notice trailer sway.  And I have never seen a boat with WD.

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13 hours ago, RyanB said:

I still don't see where it specifically calls out WDH as required for 6500 pounds.  It states they are common, but also states two axle boats in the Class III.  And I think you could argue that coils have nothing to do with it - the 2500 RAM has coils.

Not sure how it is in other parts of the country, but the GM full size SUVs are one of the most common tow vehicle for boats in my area.  Launch ramp parking lots are loaded with Yukons, Yukon XL, Tahoe's, Burbs and Escalades towing boats much larger than a 23LSV.  I get passed by them all the time, and I never notice trailer sway.  And I have never seen a boat with WD.

Check the numbers on the hitch itself, that will show if WD is needed or not. Most 1/2 ton factory hitches are 5000 or 6000 weight carrying (WC) and up to 10 or 12000 WD. If you're not using WD, check your ball mount and ball as well. Everything must be rated high enough, the total system capacity is only equal to the lowest rated part.

You are correct, coils vs. leafs has nothing to do with it. Both can be as weak or as strong as the other, and they are only one of many factors in determining overall capacity.

You are also correct that very few people care enough to use WD on a boat. Recommended or not.

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  • 6 months later...

Bumping this up because I solved my problem and I thought maybe it could help someone else. 

 

I chose to get rid of the OEM trailer tires. After just over two seasons, I didn't like the way they were wearing, so I changed out to the new Goodyear Endurance trailer tire. It is a load range D (vs C on the old tire) so I gain about 200 pounds of weight capacity, 65 psi and an 87 MPH speed rating.

 

Yesterday we pulled the boat about 500 miles. And the road manners were completely different.

 

I am surprised that the tires make that much of a difference but they did. I am disappointed that Malibu/Boatmate would put such crappy tires on a brand new setup, but happy I found the solution. 

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