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duckhunter1

water leak

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duckhunter1

23 lsv, not a big one, auto bilge comes on every 30 minutes or so, when I pull it out on a steep ramp it pumps it out in about 3-4 minutes, any ideas where to look

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malibu2004

Drive Shaft, impeller leaking, ballast pumps. 

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Bill_AirJunky

Prop packing?

 

Mid ship ballast? Fill the tank, as it fills up, open the hatch in the floor by the driver. Do you see water flowing over the back of the ballast tank?

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wdr

'11 should be dripless at least my '10 is. I would start there first it is the easiest to get to and see and discount. My DL shaft seal went bad somehow and after I replaced it the OD of the replacement seal was not the same as the OD of the OEM seal so it had a leak between the housing and the seal! The amount of water you are talking about makes me think ballast tank hose clamp or cut ballast line. 

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Marksa1458

Just dealt with this.  Had a loose hose clamp on the water pump hose.  Only put water in the boat when the engine was running. Couple of turns and no more leak. 

 

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sounddude03
27 minutes ago, Marksa1458 said:

Just dealt with this.  Had a loose hose clamp on the water pump hose.  Only put water in the boat when the engine was running. Couple of turns and no more leak. 

 

Have had the same thing happen with the shower hose - the filter basket seal went bad and pumped water into the boat whenever the engine was running.  Check all hoses while the boat is running to see if you can determine what's leaking.  Likely a simple fix.

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GranvilleMalibu23

same issue, winterization geek did not tighten clamp on the south end of the oil cooler/rubber hose connection and was streaming in water as the engine ran...good news was the bilge pump reacted properly. Son drove as I hung over the engine box and identified the problem..couple turns on the clamp and all was good..

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saxton15
13 hours ago, wdr said:

'11 should be dripless at least my '10 is. I would start there first it is the easiest to get to and see and discount. My DL shaft seal went bad somehow and after I replaced it the OD of the replacement seal was not the same as the OD of the OEM seal so it had a leak between the housing and the seal! The amount of water you are talking about makes me think ballast tank hose clamp or cut ballast line. 

My 2011 isn't a dripless.

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wdr

IIWM I would consider going the "OJ" dripless route. Easy hand tool conversion for less than $100. It keeps the boat a lot cleaner than my boat w/o the dripless!

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saxton15

I'm considering it.  I've watched a few install videos (all of which show a dummy shaft in a big empty room, and never a guy struggling under the engine bay), so it looks easy to complete.  Might be an end of season job.  How long did it take you WDR?

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formulaben

I had a ballast hose that had a slight kink in it.  It looked very healthy and until you bent it backwards, otherwise you'd never see the hole...but start running water through it and sure enough it's leaking.  You'd never know it was that hose unless you got your head down there and patiently watched.

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minnmarker
18 hours ago, sounddude03 said:

Have had the same thing happen with the shower hose - the filter basket seal went bad and pumped water into the boat whenever the engine was running.  Check all hoses while the boat is running to see if you can determine what's leaking.  Likely a simple fix.

:plus1:I had exactly the same thing happen.  Those strainer basket seals are marginal.  I put some silicone lube on the rubber seal.

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wdr
9 hours ago, saxton15 said:

I'm considering it.  I've watched a few install videos (all of which show a dummy shaft in a big empty room, and never a guy struggling under the engine bay), so it looks easy to complete.  Might be an end of season job.  How long did it take you WDR?

Mine already had it installed when I got it new. I keep forgetting than it was an option. The hard part will be separating the shaft coupler from the prop shaft. That took over an hour at the time I replaced my failed seal. Now that I know what I am doing it took about 20 minutes on my friends Tige, but his new shaft came with a nifty tool to make the job way easier to separate the assembly. You have to take the shaft coupler nut off and then pull the shaft coupler off of the tapered prop shaft. To do that the nifty tool sits on the face of the prop shaft and presses against the VD output flange so when you essentially reassembly everything as you draw the two pieces together it pushes the prop shaft out of the the shaft coupler. I used a socket at the time I did mine. Once you get the shaft coupler off, just shoot some soapy water into the cutlass bearings and slide the prop shaft and prop back opening up the space to pull the old shaft seal assembly off and slide the new kit on. Tool were 9/16 and 1/2 wrenches, 1 1/16 socket and ratchet, 5/16 nut driver and I believe a 3/16 Allen wrench for the shaft coupler retaining nut set screw.

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saxton15

Thanks for the info WDR!  Im seriously considering it, I prefer a perfectly dry bilge.  

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wdr
3 hours ago, saxton15 said:

Thanks for the info WDR!  Im seriously considering it, I prefer a perfectly dry bilge.  

Not a problem. I prefer a dry boat as well, otherwise is constantly smells like a cat peed in it!

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formulaben

Linky no worky.

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duckhunter1

leaking around the speedometer plug in bottom of boat, tried silicone but no luck, o ring in place,  looks like a v notch in the posterior part attached to hull, is this normal

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Pepper14

My old boat was leaking and I found that on the bottom of the boat where I guess the speedometer wire was going the sealant was missing.  I bought some marine sealant at west marine  and sealed where the wire was, it took 2 days to harden.  It worked I didn'st have any more issues.

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