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Drive shaft bushing replacement


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I have a 2001 SSLXI and I have a pretty nasty vibration when I am maneuvering at slow speed typically when spinning around to pickup a rider. I am assuming they drive shaft bushing are worn out. I can actually move the drive shaft in the struct probably 1/16" in any direction.  There should not be any play in this at all correct? Are there any write ups on how to replace the bushings?

 

I assume this is what I need: http://www.skidim.com/BUSHINGS-1-1_8-ID-x-1-3_8-OD/productinfo/SBRG-1.12X1.38X20K/

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Correct, you should not have any play.  The "cutlass bearings" as they are called, are different for older mail us than the newer.  My 2013 has 2" long x 1 1/8 ID x 1 1/2 OD. You may want to check with ski dim by phone to confirm OD is correct one for your boat. I'm pretty sure length and ID are the same as the one you have, but can not confirm OD.  Also, once you remove the drive shaft and remove the old, a install the new, you should re-align your engine, transmission and v-drive to ensure proper shaft alignment.  Bakes online should also be able to help. They give 10% off for paying TMC members and Paul and Andrew are very knowledgeable and helpful.  Good luck!

Note you have a DD, so a little easier to do alignment. :)

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Yes, pressed in but can be tapped in gently if you take the drive shaft off. I bought a kit from strut pro and did mine without remove drive shaft. Strut pro custom made collets for me so a shout out to Mike at Strut Pro. Made the work on a VDrive from about a 2 day project taking the couplings apart and removing prop and coupler from the ends of the shaft and pulling the shaft to it took me  about 45 minutes to press the old ones out and presto the new ones in without removing the drive shaft. Pricey, but good quality equipment fo one ever every three or four years if you put as many hours a year as I do.  I've average 360 hours a year on our 2013. Currently have 1020 hours on her and just replaced the cutlass bearings with 970 hours on her. Google replacing cutlass bearing on DD and you will get a good amount of information.  Key is aligning the couplers and shaft with engines do trans. 

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Not sure I'd call it "piece of cake." I'm sure you'll enjoy the whole coupling on the end of the shaft part. LOL
But yes, much easier than some people make it out to be, as long as you have a couple of tricks up your sleeve.

Good luck to you!

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Yes the coupling at the end of the shaft...I don't have sufficent room to even get a shallow socket in to lossen the nut with the shaft packing housing.

Have been dreading how to remove the shaft in the event of a bent shaft or down the track replacing the cutlass bearing

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I think I have ~1.5-2inches once I slide everything down.  Can probably make more room by removing the shaft packing too right? 

I have never looked at the rudder, how much of a pain is it to drop that? What parts do I need to rebuild while I have it out?

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@twitchee2:  the rudder drops out very easy, the bigger trick is to make sure you have the boat offset on the trailer so the rudder clears the bottom bar.  You can install either the rubber/brass or the white vesconite bushings back in the shaft.  The vesonite ones are a lower friction option that are offered on most newer boats.  The coupler for the transmission is on a tapered shaft + key and as noted can offer some challenges in the removal process.

Several posts exist on this site as to disassembly as several members have asked same question, so use the search to find older posts.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So far so good on this project, typical first timer learning curve figuring out the best way to do things. So far I have everything apart, just need to cut out the bushings, ran out of time tonight.  I am trying to think a few steps ahead, how do you actually set the alignment? I can grab the prop shaft and wiggle it a whole lot more then 0.003".  How do I know the shaft its in the correct place before align the motor to it? Maybe I am missing something simple.

 

On a side note, the prop shaft is a lot shorter than I was expecting!

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@twitchee2:  Do a search on this site, several members (including myself) have posted on doing the alignment.  I go by feel on the shaft being centered, not really an issue side to side, the vertical position is the element you have to be thinking about since there is more mass at the coupler than behind it, so I basically hold it in a neutral position to make sure that aligns with the trans coupler, then slide it on the guide ring and loosely attach one bolt to keep things together.  At this point if it does not center, you will have to move the engine a bit (parallel slide at this point) to get proper alignment, side to side or up / down.  From there I use the feeler gauge at 90 / 180 / 270 degrees with the 360 degree mark held together to check clearance and adjust the twist to correct.  Hope that helps.  If the bushings are simply worn and you have not hit anything, there is a good chance the alignment is very close so only a minor adjustment would be necessary, look everything over and think about it before you make a significant move particularly if all the hardware is tight and the lock tabs still in place.

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while the shaft is out on the bench grab the tail-stock of the transmission and see how much you can move it using your puny muscles.

now extrapolate just how much the output torque of the monster sbc, located in front of that transmission, can wind up those motor mounts.

i'm an advocate of getting it close enough and if you are trying to hit the spec in the manual you are in for a long unproductive night.

imho.  y, i'm entitled to an o.

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Just now, tvano said:

while the shaft is out on the bench grab the tail-stock of the transmission and see how much you can move it using your puny muscles.

now extrapolate just how much the output torque of the monster sbc, located in front of that transmission, can wind up those motor mounts.

i'm an advocate of getting it close enough and if you are trying to hit the spec in the manual you are in for a long unproductive night.

imho.  y, i'm entitled to an o.

This is basically what I was thinking! If it fits without forcing it, its likely fine.  I think @Woodski is right, this is more preventative than fixing so it may be just fine.

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  • 1 month later...

i didnt ever update this.  Everything went back together smooth got it to 0.003" and i have put ~10 hours on it so far. Vibration and chattering is now gone!

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