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phase 1 of fresh stereo build


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As posted in a previous thread, my stereo was stolen from my boat over memorial day weekend.  I have a week long trip planned for June 20th so I need to get started on my build just to get tunes for that week.  Phase 2 will come later.  My plan is to not use any of the stock stuff that was in my sound pack 1.  I would like to run a WS420-BT as my head unit.  I have an Arc Audio 300.4 that I picked up from @Murphy8166 late last year.  This will run 4 pair of in boats.  As of now, I have holes for 3 sets so not quite sure how it would work to run 2 sets off two channels and the bow set off the other two.  Phase 2 will consist of 1 pair of Rev 10's , amp to run them and replacing the RF 10" sub that the thieves graciously left behind. Sooo...., here is my plan until phase 2 begins.  I am sure there are some flaws in my plan so I look forward to input, especially from the experts out there (you know who you are).

Here's my plan for phase 1


Arc 300.4 -rear channels to walkway and gunnel speakers, front channels to bow speakers

Amp (TBD) to run existing sub but have enough power to run larger, more power handling sub later (also TBD).  I am thinking Arc 600.1 or 1200.1, dialed way back for now.  I would like to keep things matching and I already have the 300.4 so that is why I am leaning to ARC.

I am thinking that this will be a relatively simple install but I have a couple questions before I get started.  Would it be worth it/possible to run the rear speakers off the boat channel of the 420 and the bow off the tower channel for temporary?  I am thinking the rear speakers will be wired in parallel to run a 2ohm load, the fronts direct for a 4 ohm load. I know the amp is stable at 2ohms but am not sure if they can work at different loads for each zone.

Phase 2 may take a while as I have a lot working in the pipeline and boat cash is going to be thin for the rest of the summer.  Phase 2 will be replacing sub, adding towers and amp and adding another set of 6.5"s in the rear seat.  At that point, I will be rewiring in boat speakers to be back seat/gunnels to the rear channel and walkthrough/bow to the front channel.

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41 minutes ago, isellacuras said:

I would like to keep things matching and I already have the 300.4 so that is why I am leaning to ARC

Is the current woofer 4 ohm or 2 ohm final impedance? I would think long and hard about the final woofer choice to make sure it is available in a coil configuration that will allow for you to take advantage of the amp's wattage. Just keep in mind that arc does not offer a 600.1 in the KS series to match the 300.4. 

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I have no idea what the sub impedance is. I will open it up and take a look tonight or tomorrow.  It was mated to an alpine m500 and was a really decent fit when combined with the 4 inboats on stock rfx-3000.  I was content with the sound but I am no audiofile either.  I may even consider getting another M500 to hold me over until phase 2.    I am not 100% set on running matching amps.  I would consider JL, WS or Exile, I just don't want to not use the 300.4.  I have it so I may as well use it.  I believe it to be a good piece for what it will be used for and it saves me $500+ on a budget build. 

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Most definitely use the KS300.4 you have and get a 2nd for the Rev-10s. For the woofer, the KS300.2 would work great for a 4 ohm woofer at 700W rms, so its in that 600W range. The nest step up would be the KS1200.1 for a 2 ohm woofer.  

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Thats perfect! the KS300.4 will do just fine driving 3-4 pair of in-boats and the 420 wont care that only 2 of the 3 zones are in use for now. 


Have you seen the new WS-220BT? Its a 4 zone controller with MIC and integrated BT. Just no 4 band EQ.  

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After much personal debate and budget crunching, I may be changing things up a little. I am now leaning toward an exile javelin 5 channel for in boats and sub, an xi-12 DVC in a qbomb box and an exile ZLD as phase 1. 

 Anyone have a schematic or drawing of the wiring required for a system using a ZLD/420 as a head unit or a link to an informative thread? I am going to gut the factory wiring so I will be starting with a clean slate.  I would like to be able to turn on stereo with boat power off. my guess is that the remote power comes from a switch rather than a head unit. Where should that power come from?  Any recommendations for a nice looking, quality dash mount switch?  I am also considering hiding a switch under the helm but within easy reach in which case looks aren't important but quality still is. 

Has anyone seen or have a picture of a 420 or ZLD mounted in the stock RF dash remote location?  Curious to see how much work it will be to get it in there right.  

Edited by isellacuras
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Getting started on install and have a couple questions. Im doing phase 1 and phase 2 at the same time. I may swap out the arc amp down the road but only if I see the need to. I am also running the rf262 6.5"s since I already have 2 sets. One set was a hand me down and the other came in the box when I bought the boat.  They were going to be mounted in the back panel but I never got around to it.  Like the amp, the inboats may get replaced later if I ever feel the need. Because I already have 2 pair, I only need to buy one set of speakers to fill all 6 holes.  Anyone see anything wrong with buying a set of exile 6.5" to put in the bow location since that is what I will prolly upgrade to or should I just get another set of RF so they match?  I am already way over budget so that is the only reason I am not going all out on in boats right now.

May plan was to run in boats and sub off the javelin and towers off the 300.4. Just questioning myself if I should run towers and sub off javelin and inboats off 300.4. Or am I over thinking it and it won't really matter?

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I think the rockfords sound pretty decent with power, which you will be giving them.  I'd stick to that plan if staying on budget(ish) is important.

If it were me I'd power as you originally planned with the towers on the arc amp.  Subs tend to get run hard, and towers tend to get run hard, and to combine that on a single amp really would put some stress on that one amp.  By putting the towers on the other amp, you spread some of the stress around.  

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Running my RCA cables from ZLD to amps. ZLD has 3 outputs for cabin, tower and sub. Should I split the output for the cabin speakers at the amp or at the ZLD?  I figure at the amp would be easier since one less set of RCA's to run. Tower and sub are each 2 channels so no need to split.

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1 hour ago, shawndoggy said:

Huh.  I was gonna say don't split at all and just select the 2 channel input switch but it looks like the javelin doesn't have one? Agree with @malibuskier2003 to just split at the amp if you really have to do that in 2016.



RTFM!  Is this the configuration?  Looks like it is what I am after. Sorry for all the questions. I'm sure I will have many in the next few days. 


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Just now, isellacuras said:

I notice @Fman and @IXFE cut holes in the amp rack behind where the amps mount. Is this needed for additional cooling if I am mounting using the hanger dowels that @shawndoggy used?  Or is that just done for wire access?

Yeah not required.  Arguably looks a little cleaner is all.  SRSLY man, it's just to impress your TMC friends.... as I told @IXFE offline, nobody have ever been on my boat and gone "damn dude, great work on the amp rack."  it's just a nonissue that nobody cares about in the real world (same for LEDs on your amp rack etc).  Just set it up in a way that you don't put a screw through the hull and that your wires are secure and reasonably organized and call it a day.


(sacrilege, I know) 

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4 hours ago, isellacuras said:

And not on the water, apparently. 

haha I never said I wouldn't have a beer on YOUR boat... just not on mine when I'm supposed to be the responsible guy.

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