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Beginner Questions - 2010 Wakesetter VLX


Maisbiensuer

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Hi there,

I just bought a 2010 Wakesetter VLX from a private owner. Engine has been checked by a mechanic, service done.

There are two remaining questions I don't have an answer, maybe you can help.

1) Drain Plug: I have heard and seen on pictures that malibu's can sink because of open drain plugs. I asked the seller about this, but he had no clue about these drain plugs. Are there still drain plugs on the 2010 VLX? If yes, where can I find them?

2) Stuffing Box: The seller told me that I have to check the greasing for the stuffing box. Greased by water, but I have to check if there will be enough water for greasing. How can I check this? And how much water flow is enough?

Thanks for your help in advance.

Remo

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3 plugs as previously mentioned. 1 T handle under the circular screw out hatch in the floor left of the drivers seat, a T handle in the bilge left of the oil pan and the transom plug. Dripless shaft seal with the water supplied to the seal by the block. You can trace the clear supply line from the shaft seal along right side side of the oil pan, aft over the alternator and up into the block.

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Thank you all for your replies!

Ok, drain plugs should be clear now, I guess I will find them now :-).

 

@wdr

Did I understood you correct that the water for the shaft cooling / greasing is coming from the sea water pump on the engine block? So, I don't have to do anything on this as also "srab" has mentioned? 

I'm just asking because the seller told me that this is something I should check before starting excessively using the boat.

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You will have to look to determine what kind of shaft seal you have.  The water-cooled shaft seal looks like the one here:   http://www.skiertoskier.com/worldwidestore/contents/en-us/p76.html

You should see a clear 3/8 in. hose coming off near the base of the transmission cooler and "Y"-ing forward to insert on that barb.

If you do not have a water-cooled shaft seal (it was like a $75 upgrade), periodic maintenance will be required, but its not really complicated.

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Good point srab. My boat was pretty much optioned out from the dealer except for the rear flush kit. I kind of forget that not all boats were built equally. To the point the dripless is maintenance free for the most part. It sounds like the O/O might not of been too sure of what he had. If you don't see the hose that srab described coming from or going to a white plastic housing with a blue plastic cap with the prop shaft running through then you most likely have the old style shaft seal. They both work, one is just a little drippier than the other.

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I guess I have the water-cooled shaft seal. I will check the next time when I'm on the boat.

If I'm not sure, I will upload a picture.

Thanks for the help!

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hello Guys,

In the meantime I have put the boat into the water. I've located and checked all the drain plugs and also identified the I have a non-maintenance shaft seal.

There is just one thing that scares me a litte. After I have put the boat into the water, I checked the hatch next do the driver seat again and I had about 5 centimeters of water in in it (between fuel tank and center ballast tank). This place was completly dry before and I had just driven the boat for about an hour. Strange thing is, after 3 more hours on the water without driving, there wasn't more water. After driving again for some time, there was less water. And one day later again about 4-5 centimers. The boat was on the water the whole time. I checked the ballast pumps, there is no leakage. Furthermore, the bilge is dry.

Any ideas? Or ist this normal? I'm just asking as my boat is on the lake during the whole summer at it would be a problem if it would leak somewhere continously. The pre owner had the problem too, and also has no idea where it could come from.

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As far I understand, the Bilge pump is more in the back. Bilge pump has no impact on the water height in the hatch (left to driver's seat) when it run and I'm not driving. So, I have pumped the water out manually.

But do you mean I should let the bilge pump run while I'm driving (because the back is deeper then)?

Edited by Maisbiensuer
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No definitely not.  I had water in the same compartment when one of my pumps had cracked.  I figured driving the boat would send the water back to the bilge, but it does not.  The gas tank is in the way.  You're better off pumping it out.

If you leave the boat overnight without running the engine, will the water make its way back in the same compartment? 

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Hmm, yes this makes sense. The bilge is always dry, but in the middle compartment is water. Maybe there is a cross-bracing between this two parts?

To your questions while I leave the boat without running the engine. The water is always just in the middle part (between center ballast and fuel tank). Never had any water in the bilge as far I know.

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It should all be one open area, water can run under the gas tank.  When I winterize, I only pull the plug by the drivers hatch and all the water drains out there from the engine/hoses...well except for an inch or so that's always in there.  The bilge pump in the back of the boat is probably a good 3-4 inches above the lowest point which is that center locker.

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So it seems the bilge pump is in the wrong spot then :-) I will add a second bilge pump in the center locker maybe.

But anyhow, would be interesting to know where the water comes from.

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The low point in the boat when it is sitting still is not at the transom (as in most I/Os and outboards).  Whatever water that gets in through the shaft seal or other place (splash, ballast lines, etc.) will find its way to the middle compartment when you stop.  When underway it will find its way to the back of the boat where the bilge pump will pump it out once it gets high enough to activate the pump.  A bit of water sloshing around is normal.  I don't think you have anything to worry about.  If you're not absolutely sure you have a drip-less shaft maybe check the drip rate at the shaft.  If you do have a drip-less shaft seal and it is not dripping and you have not been getting splashes or wet people in the boat then you may have a small leak in the cooling system.  Look for drips when the engine is running - just be careful of the belt.

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Thanks for all your help in this matter!

So the bilge pump will start automatically? That's cool, I didn't know. There is still a lot to learn about my new boat :-)

I should have a drip less shaft, I have this one:

shaft.jpg

I will check for a small leakage in the cooling system, this could be the case. I will check tomorrow if there is more water in it (as I have pumped the water out the last time) and if it's getting more after driving I will check more closely.

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6 minutes ago, t a said:

It should all be one open area, water can run under the gas tank.  When I winterize, I only pull the plug by the drivers hatch and all the water drains out there from the engine/hoses...well except for an inch or so that's always in there.  The bilge pump in the back of the boat is probably a good 3-4 inches above the lowest point which is that center locker.

t a is correct that the rear of the bilge is higher than the center. 

I never remove the plug in the stern, just the center T handle. The way the bilge slopes is towards the center (hence a T handle for easy removal and installation). Water will accumulate in the center of the boat (however, when boat is under way (moving forward) the water will flow to the back due to gravity. When you are on a lift or trailer, the center plug will drain the water. If you remover the rear plug, make sure you are on an incline, or all the water will not drain from bilge. 

there are not separate compartments in the bilge... it all slopes to the center.. water can move freely from front of boat to back of boat

Just now, Maisbiensuer said:

Thanks for all your help in this matter!

So the bilge pump will start automatically? That's cool, I didn't know. There is still a lot to learn about my new boat :-)

I should have a drip less shaft, I have this one:

shaft.jpg

I will check for a small leakage in the cooling system, this could be the case. I will check tomorrow if there is more water in it (as I have pumped the water out the last time) and if it's getting more after driving I will check more closely.

That is a dripless seal... ther clear hose to the left is the inlet from the raw water pump

16 minutes ago, Maisbiensuer said:

So it seems the bilge pump is in the wrong spot then :-) I will add a second bilge pump in the center locker maybe.

But anyhow, would be interesting to know where the water comes from.

In theory no.... In the rear it will protect the engine from water (under power the water flows to the stern, if the bilge was in the center of boat then it would not be at lowest point at that time).. BTW all new Malibus have 2 (1 stern, 1 center)... and mine does now as well.. I did this as backup due to my auto bilge not turning pump on when a bag fitting failed and hydro locked my enging :(

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If the bilge is filling up without the engine running, I'd say you should be checking those hoses promptly.  I wouldn't run the engine if water is dripping in to that point.  

3 hours ago, kerpluxal said:

t a is correct that the rear of the bilge is higher than the center. 

I never remove the plug in the stern, just the center T handle. The way the bilge slopes is towards the center (hence a T handle for easy removal and installation). Water will accumulate in the center of the boat (however, when boat is under way (moving forward) the water will flow to the back due to gravity. When you are on a lift or trailer, the center plug will drain the water. If you remover the rear plug, make sure you are on an incline, or all the water will not drain from bilge. 

there are not separate compartments in the bilge... it all slopes to the center.. water can move freely from front of boat to back of boat

That is a dripless seal... ther clear hose to the left is the inlet from the raw water pump

In theory no.... In the rear it will protect the engine from water (under power the water flows to the stern, if the bilge was in the center of boat then it would not be at lowest point at that time).. BTW all new Malibus have 2 (1 stern, 1 center)... and mine does now as well.. I did this as backup due to my auto bilge not turning pump on when a bag fitting failed and hydro locked my enging :(

Where did you run your second bilge pump?  Add it to the ballast drain line?

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The boat was in the water now for three days without checking. I will check today if there was a change in water height during this time without running the engine. Then I will check if there is any dripping on one of the hoses on the engine. I will check if there is any dripping if the engine runs.

I will report again!

Thank you very much for your help!

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12 hours ago, saxton15 said:

If the bilge is filling up without the engine running, I'd say you should be checking those hoses promptly.  I wouldn't run the engine if water is dripping in to that point.  

Where did you run your second bilge pump?  Add it to the ballast drain line?

Since boat was at dealer for new engine install, I had them install it... it is located by the mid internal ballast tank, wired to the other bilge, and plumbed out through its own thru hull.

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Well, I was on the boat yesterday. There wasn't any new water in the boat, the water height in the hatch was the same as three days ago, after I pumped it out (boat stayed in the water for three days).

After driving around for 2 hours, wakeboarding and using the ballast tanks, there wasn't still any new water in it and the Bilge pump hasn't run. The engine hoses seem to be tight too. So far so good :-)

I'm just wondering where the water could have been coming from in the first time.

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Excellent reply by @srab...the only thing I would add is that even if you never feel a need to remove your T-handle drains (ones other than the transom plug) I would definitely remove them for winterization.  Search a few posts here about these NTP threaded plugs "bonding" and becoming irremovable, one very recently.  Not a fun situation for when you NEED to remove it.

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