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Wakemakers Surf Assist install


jcon44

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In order to get around that platform hump, I think I'll either notch the hinge, and omit the middle screw hole, or cut the hinge in 2 and gap it over that hump like this Mastercrafter did:

 

mastercraftGSAhinge4_zpsyxf9wao5.jpg

 

mastercraftGSAhinge2_zps08gicvjz.jpg

 

Or this spacer probably would do the trick if you notched it around the bump.:

 

malibu23lsvgsa1_zpsndcrdu3f.jpg

 

Edit: turns out that I did not have any issues from the hump on my 247.

Edited by TimbrSS
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Yes, if I were doing it again I would notch the hinges slightly. Its not noticeable enough to make me want to redo anything at this point and every hull is different so you may not even need to. fewer holes to drill if you use two pieces and its should still be plenty strong!

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  • 1 month later...

I'll just add my install info here. I was too exited to get it in the water to take better pics, so I'll update later. I used wakemaker's template to locate the tabs and actuators. I wasn't super happy with how that turned out, and ended up relocating the actuator brackets on the flaps slightly to get a better angle (less bind on actuator pin), and to get deployment angle to 12*.  I seemed no matter how I adjusted the actuator in the stock mounting tab locations, I was picking between 15* or 8* fully deployed. Wakemakers really needs to have a someone re-do their instructions with more details. , And in hindsight, I'd wouldn't have used the templates and just placed the actuator on the hull where it needed to go with the tabs deployed at 12*.After the hardware was mounted the electrical stuff was really easy. I spent a while coming up with a bracket to mount the control unit.

Surfing was pretty interesting. Spent a few hours trying to dial in tab adjustments, wedge, weight and speed. I have 1100 on the starboard side, dong sack on port side. and 500# of lead I was messing with yesterday.  Before Wave Control, my listed wave was really dialed in, and I was perfectly happy with it, but wanted the added benefits of a surf system. At times, I had a wave that rivaled my listed setup, but wouldn't say I surpassed it yet. I'll play around some more to get it dialed in. I have another 750 sack add to the mix today.

 

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Edited by TimbrSS
  • Like 2
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A quick video. Not fully dialed in, but definitely fun. My one goofy friend used to just surf regular rather than switch all the listed weight to the other side. I was super stocked to see the goofy wave, and it was definitely the best goofy wave I've seen off my boat. The regular wave is good, just working on optimizing it. It's close to my listed wave quality.

 

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3 hours ago, shadetreefab said:

@TimbrSS with the tabs retracted how far do they stick out from you swim platform?

A few inches on the side. could be a problem if you weren't careful at the side of the platform. I'm sure I'll cut my leg open on them sooner or later. you won't hit them using the back of the swim platform.

20160813_133430_zpstbognrxn.jpg

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20160813_133418_zpsszheakrx.jpg

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Had a bunch of fun yesterday playing around. Goofy side is awesome, it looks as good as my regular side when I'm  running listed.  I still can't figure out to get regular side as good, but it's still surfable and plenty of fun. I'd say it was very similar wave to my mission flap test I did. Wave is flatter. Listed, the wave has a nice curl ( , tab is flatter, \ . There seems to be less push with the tab, but it is easier to do spins... I like to get it in the middle of the two. I'm sure I'll eventually sort it out.

 

had some chop that you would expect on Saturday afternoon. It was nice to have the boat level for surfing. 

 

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Play with all the possible positions of the tab.  We've discovered in shallower water (10-15') tab more up a little less speed better.  Deeper water tab about half down and 11.2 mph.  Throw as much weight as you can and it really gets good!  

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Do the tabs deflect the water down and create a deeper trough behind boat?  My platform is the older bigger Axis style and was thinking of having it modified so it has less impact on the wave shape but curious if the tabs would push the water down enough to keep it from hitting the platform as much. 

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23 hours ago, vanamp said:

Do the tabs deflect the water down and create a deeper trough behind boat?  My platform is the older bigger Axis style and was thinking of having it modified so it has less impact on the wave shape but curious if the tabs would push the water down enough to keep it from hitting the platform as much. 

I'll take some video while riding so you can really see what's going on.

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On 8/14/2016 at 8:24 AM, racer808 said:

Play with all the possible positions of the tab.  We've discovered in shallower water (10-15') tab more up a little less speed better.  Deeper water tab about half down and 11.2 mph.  Throw as much weight as you can and it really gets good!  

I always run deep water 15+. I'll have to try slowing down. I'm used to 12.8 listed, so anything around 11.0 feels super slow. That speed kept the listed wave longer.

Totally sacked out with wave control couldn't run in the mid 12s, so I dropped a little weight to run 12.0 or so. These are all paddle wheel speeds, I need to verify with GPS sometime.

I'll  sack it out this week and go slower. Low 11s.  I have full length Dong sack port side, 1100 and 350 starboard side. 500# of lead, and another 750# sack to play with. I'm switching from 2313 to 2419 prop as well.

Goofy wave is just amazing. Can't wait to get my regular to match it.

20160814_101041_zpsunqfkp7m.jpg

20160815_092356_zpsbvdisdgx.jpg

Edited by TimbrSS
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On 8/15/2016 at 9:37 AM, rugger said:

Sent you a PM... how wide are those puppies?  Bigger tabs for the 247?

I keep forgetting to take measurements, but they're pretty big. I believe they are the same tabs for every boat. 

Here's some more notes from my install:

I used the Wakemaker's templates to align everything, but i didn't like how the actuator interfaced with the tab on the flap. I could either get it to max deploy 8*, or 15*  (they say you want 10-12) with any of the holes on the tab. when it was 15*, it would only go up 8* (which is the minimum in the instructions) and didn't look like it was up far enough and to top it off, it was cocked sideways a little and difficult to get the pin installed. I didn't want to drill more holes in the boat, so I just moved the tab a little on the flap by drilling a few more holes. Now deploys 12* and retracts 24*, or ~3" from swim platform.  If I were to do it over I wouldn't use the templates... just measure in 4", mark and drill holes for hinge, mount the hinge, mount the tab to hinge. once the tab is mounted, fully extend the actuator and line it up with the hull where the tab will be deployed 10-12*. Mark the holes, then mount the actuator to the hull there. This will guarantee no binding on the actuator like I had when I followed the template.

I've found that I'm retracting the tabs 3-4 clicks on the dial from full deploy to get the best wave in my testing so far, so likely would have been OK with the 8* max. I may move the location of the actuator mount on the tabs so that the tabs max deploy slightly less. (and retract farther.) The way that the system works is that when you activate the system, it will deploy the tab 100%, regardless of where the adjustment knob is set. Then you need to adjust with the knob.

2 things that I like better about tabs than surfgate: You can still list the boat if you want that option, without the tab interfering with the wave. I've read that the gated boats make a big step in the wave when listed. Launch mode is nice, but maybe just a novelty.

Here's all the documentation, including the templates (that will show you roughly how wide they are):

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1m9-4Vk62nIdHRLZVRWbVR3M0U

Edited by TimbrSS
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1 hour ago, TimbrSS said:

I used the Wakemaker's templates to align everything, but i didn't like how the actuator interfaced with the tab on the flap. I could either get it to max deploy 8*, or 15*  (they say you want 10-12) with any of the holes on the tab. when it was 15*, it would only go up 18* (which is the minimum in the instructions) and didn't look like it was up far enough and to top it off, it was cocked sideways a little and difficult to get the pin installed. I didn't want to drill more holes in the boat, so I just moved the tab a little on the flap by drilling a few more holes. Now deploys 12* and retracts 24*, or ~3" from swim platform.  If I were to do it over I wouldn't use the templates... just measure in 4", mark and drill holes for hinge, mount the hinge, mount the tab to hinge. once the tab is mounted, fully extend the actuator and line it up with the hull where the tab will be deployed 10-12*. Mark the holes, then mount the actuator to the hull there. This will guarantee no binding on the actuator like I had when I followed the template.

I've found that I'm retracting the tabs 3-4 clicks on the dial from full deploy to get the best wave in my testing so far, so likely would have been OK with the 8* max. I may move the location of the actuator mount on the tabs so that the tabs max deploy slightly less. (and retract farther.) The way that the system works is that when you activate the system, it will deploy the tab 100%, regardless of where the adjustment knob is set. Then you need to adjust with the knob.

2 things that I like better about tabs than surfgate: You can still list the boat if you want that option, without the tab interfering with the wave. I've read that the gated boats make a big step in the wave when listed. Launch mode is nice, but maybe just a novelty.

 

Agreed, we spent a ton of time measuring angles when it probably didn't matter. Just mount your tabs and actuators as close to template as you feel comfortable and you will get good results. The feel of drilling wholes and incorrectly is tough to get you head around. I am bringing my tabs back up 2 clicks as well, and I think someone at GSA told me you really only need to deploy 5 degrees to get results. They should throw away the installation instructions and start over.

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I installed wave control on my 2005 VLX.  The boat is new to me this summer so I have never surfed it before adding it.  I have only used it the past two weekends with mixed results.  

1. Thanks for uploading the instructions. Mine didn't come with any.  So I too have struggle through it.  

2. I am close to 15 degrees fully deployed so I will relocate the mount soon.  In the mean time I will experiment with dialing it back 5 or six clicks. 

3. Does anyone have a VLX with the system?   I don't have it dialed yet for sure.  I've tried all factory ballast and that was just OK.  I have 1250 factory.  I added some 400lb bags on either side of the engine this weekends hat I had but didn't fill the mid or fwd tanks.  I have some 650 sacs coming tomorrow so I plan to run all factory with the 650 sacs in the rear lockers this weekend.  I also converted to the floating wedge.  Not sure which bolt hole in the wedge will be better if the wedge is beneficial at all?  Ryan at wave control has always answered the phone which had been great.  I wish I had more time to experiment

i have been surfing a direct drive sunsetter lx with 350 in the ski locker and about 1200 at the transom listed.  It is a short wave but really steep.  So far the VLX is not as steep and that is what I'm used to.  Will get some pics this weekend and keep you posted.

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1. No problem.

2. Based on my limited experience, I'd definitely relocate the actuator to a different hole to reduce deployed angle... The system will deploy the tab all the way each time you arm it, no matter where you have the dial. The will retract the tab a little every time you turn it clockwise. Set it so it's 8-12* max... less is more.

3. You will definitely need to sack that thing out. All surf systems take weight to work, and the GSA seems to need more weight than gates from what I can tell. about double what you would do listed. Run all your factory ballast too. Run your new 650's and try one of those 400 sacs in the bow. My best results are with the wedge 1 or 2 clicks up from all the way deployed.

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12 hours ago, MSD1 said:

I also converted to the floating wedge.  Not sure which bolt hole in the wedge will be better if the wedge is beneficial at all?

Can you give some more details?  Were you able to install the floating wedge onto the fixed wedge transom plate?  From pictures it looks like the "stowed position" lock pins will not work.  What differences did you see in performance / wake at surf and wake board speeds?  Thanks!

Edited by minnmarker
clarification
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3 hours ago, TimbrSS said:

3. You will definitely need to sack that thing out. All surf systems take weight to work, and the GSA seems to need more weight than gates from what I can tell. about double what you would do listed. Run all your factory ballast too. Run your new 650's and try one of those 400 sacs in the bow. My best results are with the wedge 1 or 2 clicks up from all the way deployed.

I am in a 23 LSV and have had luck running all the factory plus 900's in the rears. I also have about 300lbs in lead distributed evenly throughout the boat. I think your hull is similar so I would start with all your factory full plus the 650's and go from there. My wave gets worse if I add weight to the bow, not sure how yours will react.

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2 hours ago, minnmarker said:

Can you give some more details?  Were you able to install the floating wedge onto the fixed wedge transom plate?  From pictures it looks like the "stowed position" lock pins will not work.  What differences did you see in performance / wake at surf and wake board speeds?  Thanks!

I did this swap a couple years ago. Requires a new mounting bracket as the fixed unit won't work. The inside backing plate is the same as are the transom bolt holes. 

I didn't really see a wake improvement. Looks better, easier to deploy/stow and is more durable than the fixed wedge. 

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Just now, Nitrousbird said:

I did this swap a couple years ago. Requires a new mounting bracket as the fixed unit won't work. The inside backing plate is the same as are the transom bolt holes. 

I didn't really see a wake improvement. Looks better, easier to deploy/stow and is more durable than the fixed wedge. 

Thanks.  About $1000 total cost?  Did you have to go to the dealer to get the transom plate?

I think I'll wait until my fixed wedge breaks - if ever - before I do the switch.

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