Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

1+2 Type Battery Switch to Blue Sea 5511E and 7610 ACR help.


Recommended Posts

Thread edited to reflect current situation

 

My current setup is using the 1+2 type battery switch. I purchased the 5511E switch and 7610 ACR relay. Not really sure where I need to start with the rewire. Any input greatly appreciated. 

 

20160427_173519.jpg

 

20160427_173514.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by BlitzedVLX
Link to comment

I use batt 1 for starting and batt 2 for stereo, I have a vsr hooked to both so it automatically charges both batts if input voltage is above 12.5, works good for a weekend.

Link to comment

Do this.  Simple, nothing to switch or remember.  No training for the mates :)

Get rid of your Perko switch or put it between your starter battery and the big red cable for emergency disconnect.  Just plug in the charger if you think the stereo battery is low.  If you want to get fancy put a volt meter on the stereo battery.  Some will say you need a 2 bank charger but, in my experience, only a single bank is needed.

7610QuickInstall-w-BatteryCharger.png

  • Like 3
Link to comment
  • 4 weeks later...

I just picked up the blue sea 7610 on eBay. Am I able to use this with my current switch model off,  1, 1+2,  2 switch or do I need to purchase the 5511e switch?

 Recently we are having the problem with the boat not getting enough juice to start the engine when the switch is in the 1 position. The batteries are bothfully charged as I have had them on my prosport. We are able to turn on the lights and blower but it will not turn over the engine. When I switch to battery 1+2 or 2 it will start. 

I removed the switch in order to check the connections. I found that on the back of the switch it has the numbers reversed. The front of the switch says 1 and the back says 2.

So I switched my cable connections on the batteries so that the cable runs from the 1 on the back side of the switch which would be the 2 side on the front of the switch to my starting battery thinking that would solve my problem. With the selector on battery one it will start fine but when I switch to battery 2 it will crank but not start. Is this the correct way to wire or did I have it right the first time? 

 

 

Edited by BlitzedVLX
Link to comment

The VSR really doesn't work right without the on-off-combine switch, unless you wire it unswitched as in Minnmarker's diagram, in which case you can't turn the batteries off when not in use.

Link to comment
58 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

The VSR really doesn't work right without the on-off-combine switch, unless you wire it unswitched as in Minnmarker's diagram, in which case you can't turn the batteries off when not in use.

Thanks for the help. I ordered the Blue Sea 5511E. Do I need any additional items to go from my current setup to the 5511e + 7610 ACR? I have wiring but it shows a bus in the wiring diagram. I am wanting to go from the 1+2 switch to this setup so I am hoping it will be an easy install. 

 

I just purchased the SRm 29 and the Duracell 29 is a few years old. Which one should I make the house battery if I want to rock music in the party cove for hours with the engine off?

Link to comment
9 hours ago, BlitzedVLX said:

I just picked up the blue sea 7610 on eBay. Am I able to use this with my current switch model off,  1, 1+2,  2 switch or do I need to purchase the 5511e switch?

 Recently we are having the problem with the boat not getting enough juice to start the engine when the switch is in the 1 position. The batteries are bothfully charged as I have had them on my prosport. We are able to turn on the lights and blower but it will not turn over the engine. When I switch to battery 1+2 or 2 it will start. 

I removed the switch in order to check the connections. I found that on the back of the switch it has the numbers reversed. The front of the switch says 1 and the back says 2.

So I switched my cable connections on the batteries so that the cable runs from the 1 on the back side of the switch which would be the 2 side on the front of the switch to my starting battery thinking that would solve my problem. With the selector on battery one it will start fine but when I switch to battery 2 it will crank but not start. Is this the correct way to wire or did I have it right the first time? 

 

 

Id put the breaks on any switch change and ACR addition until the starting issue is fixed. Electrically speaker, the main cranking battery and circuit is virtually unchanged between the 9001 and 5511 switch. This leaves you still with the cranking issue, unless you have determined the switch to be bad. 

Moving to the 2 puts you completely on the other battery. Moving to the 1/2 combines the cranking amps of both banks. This points to a bad main cranking battery, switch or cable. Odd are not in your favor that the switch change will solve.

Wiring wise with your current switch, you can designate which battery is #1 and which is #2, makes no difference. The numbers on the front, represent the numbers on the back. If you batteries are identical, then you decide which is which. If one is a cranking and one is a deep-cycle, still doesnt matter which is on # and which is on #2, you just know and use the switch accordingly. 

Yes, you will be better served using the 5511 with the 7610. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment

Yes, it sounds like you have at least one weak battery in #2.  Fix that first.  Wire the system up per the Blue Sea diagrams with or without the 5511.  I don't think it makes any difference unless you might be in a situation where you're draining your starting battery somehow and need to call on the stereo battery to start the boat.  I never liked, or needed, to totally disconnect the batteries when not using the boat even for several weeks.  You just loose your presets, clock, etc.  Personal preference. 

Don't forget the small ground wire from the 7610.

Link to comment
29 minutes ago, minnmarker said:

I never liked, or needed, to totally disconnect the batteries when not using the boat even for several weeks.  You just loose your presets, clock, etc.

A traditional 1/2both/off switch would do the same thing, correct? The work around, is to wire the head-units MEM/B+ right to the battery. The difference is, with the dual circuit plus switch, the amps and head unit still draw from the same battery reference. With the 1/2both switch, you have the potential of the amps drawing off one bank through the C post of the switch and the head unit seeing a difference voltage reference wired battery direct to the other bank. This = noise. 

The other thing to consider is the fact that the OP has a dual bank charger. The dual circuit plus switch allows for the ACR to be isolated from the charger, thus allowing the charger to condition and charger each bank independently. With the 1/2/both switch, ACR and charger, the will sense the charge output and combine the bank. Yes, theres a work-around for this, but when paired with the other advantages, the 5511 switch is the ideal switch over a traditional 1/2/both switch.   

Link to comment
1 minute ago, MLA said:

A traditional 1/2both/off switch would do the same thing, correct? The work around, is to wire the head-units MEM/B+ right to the battery. The difference is, with the dual circuit plus switch, the amps and head unit still draw from the same battery reference. With the 1/2both switch, you have the potential of the amps drawing off one bank through the C post of the switch and the head unit seeing a difference voltage reference wired battery direct to the other bank. This = noise. 

The other thing to consider is the fact that the OP has a dual bank charger. The dual circuit plus switch allows for the ACR to be isolated from the charger, thus allowing the charger to condition and charger each bank independently. With the 1/2/both switch, ACR and charger, the will sense the charge output and combine the bank. Yes, theres a work-around for this, but when paired with the other advantages, the 5511 switch is the ideal switch over a traditional 1/2/both switch.   

No argument with any of that.  I just like simple, especially when others are using the boat, and the simplest system is no switch at all, with all stereo gear wired to the same voltage point on the stereo battery distribution block.  The only places the two systems connect are the ground buss and the ACR.  If there are no red lights on on the dash when the boat is put away then no problem.  I know that last sentence may be the downfall of my arrangement :whistle:

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...

Installing the blue sea switch and relay tonight and need some clarification. 

As you can see above in Post #1 - my combo switch has 3 power wires going to the output post. They are identified as follows:

A. Routed into hull - I assume this is for the engine and computer

B.Roueted into hull - I assume this is for the bilge

C. Routed into the black thing (not sure what this is called) - This routes over to my amps were power is split between my 3 amps. 

Per the instructions below, I believe I will route A and B to the top right (2) post then I will route C to the top left (1) Post 

 

I will then run a + wire from lower left (1) to the + on house battery, then run a + wire from + on hourse battery to B on relay

I will then run a + wire from lower right (2) to the + on starter battery, then run + wire from + on starter battery to A on relay

 

I will then run a - wire from house battery - to - on starter battery

 

Please correct me if I am wrong

 

BlueSea7650wire.jpg

 

Which battery would I connect the large ground cable as shown above in post 1 picture? I believe it would be my starting battery. 

Finally, How would I connect my Prosport 12 charger? 

My batteries are:

1. New SRM 29 Interstare

2. 2-3 year old deep cycle Duracell group 29

 

Which should I make as the starter and house? I really want to me able to rock music as long as I can with the engine off.

 

 

 

Blue Sea Add a battery instructions

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/990310020.pdf

 

 

Edited by BlitzedVLX
Link to comment
1 hour ago, shawndoggy said:

if you wire it using that diagram, your dual bank charger will combine and make the battery one big bank for charging.  Wire it like this instead:

 

 

 

 

Great thanks Shawn. 

Should I use my new or older battery for the starting battery?

 

Also when using the switch I set it to on - then if/when I run the stereo down from listening to music with engine off I switch the batteries to combine in order to start the boat and charge both batteries while underway? 

Link to comment

basically you should only use combine if you have an issue.  Under normal conditions (including floating with the stereo on) you'd just use "on."

Did you ever get your batteries load tested / figure out why you were having the starting issue?  It shouldn't matter which battery is your starter, but if it were me I'd probably put the newer one on starting duty.

Link to comment
Just now, shawndoggy said:

basically you should only use combine if you have an issue.  Under normal conditions (including floating with the stereo on) you'd just use "on."

Did you ever get your batteries load tested / figure out why you were having the starting issue?  It shouldn't matter which battery is your starter, but if it were me I'd probably put the newer one on starting duty.

I had the Duracell (old battery) tested and it checked out ok. The techs words were "its not a new battery but it works under a load" so I had him just order me the one interstate. I am going to get it wired tonight and if the Duracell doesn't last I will order another interstate. 

 

If I am listening to music, boat of, switch set to on and it starts to cut out this would mean that my house battery is running low correct?

 

At this point if I switched it to combine it will continue to play the stereo but be draining both batteries and I could eventually run them both dead if the engine is off and not be able to start?

Link to comment
17 hours ago, shawndoggy said:

yep, thats basically it

Thanks for all the help everyone, and mad props to Shawn for the diagram. Installed last night and voltage is reading 14.3 while underway.  I really like the fact that the stereo will continue to play when starting the boat and not cut out as it did with the old switch. 

Link to comment
3 hours ago, BlitzedVLX said:

 I really like the fact that the stereo will continue to play when starting the boat and not cut out as it did with the old switch. 

It might be worth having a 2nd battery just for this feature.

Link to comment
4 hours ago, MadMan said:

It might be worth having a 2nd battery just for this feature.

Dont need 2nd battery, need to take the head unit off the key switch. 

8 hours ago, BlitzedVLX said:

Thanks for all the help everyone, and mad props to Shawn for the diagram. Installed last night and voltage is reading 14.3 while underway.  I really like the fact that the stereo will continue to play when starting the boat and not cut out as it did with the old switch. 

Comprehensive diagram there, isnt it

Link to comment
6 minutes ago, MLA said:

Dont need 2nd battery, need to take the head unit off the key switch. 

I've found that either an amp, the head unit or both cycles off when the voltage drops while starting even when it's power is not controlled by the key.  Very annoying.

Link to comment
50 minutes ago, MadMan said:

I've found that either an amp, the head unit or both cycles off when the voltage drops while starting even when it's power is not controlled by the key.  Very annoying.

yes this can happen depending on voltage, but, even if you add a house bank and leave the head unit turn-on tied to the key switch, the system is going to power off and then back on when you go to crank and then let the key drop back to RUN. This is irrelevent to voltage but due to the fact that the ACC terminal of the key goes dead in crank. 

Link to comment
1 hour ago, MLA said:

 even if you add a house bank and leave the head unit turn-on tied to the key switch, the system is going to power off and then back on when you go to crank and then let the key drop back to RUN. This is irrelevent to voltage but due to the fact that the ACC terminal of the key goes dead in crank. 

Obviously this would happen if you were to wire it like this.  All boat/car ignition switches function like this. 

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...

After using the boat this weekend I am concerned that I don't have something hooked up right. 

We drove the boat around of and on for 20 minutes at a time.  Stopped to swim and listen to music at a fairly loud level with the subwoofer pounding for 30 minutes to an hour. We did this about 4 times.  Around the end of the day while driving 20mph I noticed the subwoofer start to cut out along with my tower speakers. I put the boat in neutral and switched the battery switch to combine and the music played normally.  I continued with it on combine the rest of the day and had no problems. 

It is my understanding that with this setup the boat should charge the battery in need while underway correct?  So shouldn't the stereo always play normally with the engine running? 

Edited by BlitzedVLX
Link to comment

Well, sorta.  If your stereo battery is heavily depleted, the ACR has a safety that will keep the batteries separated to save your alternator from getting hit with a huge load.  The under voltage lockout is 9.5v, though, so that's pretty low.

How big is your stereo?  If you are really rocking a system hard without being charged, a single group 29 is going to do "OK," but it isn't a "pound all day at the sandbar" battery bank by any means.

How the ACR works is that the alternator will always charge the battery that's on the same side of the switch as the alternator.  If you wired as in my diagram, that would be the starting battery.  If the stereo battery is above 9.5v, the acr will combine when the boat is running to allow the alternator charge both batteries, but the ACR is not "smart" in a way that would put power to one or the other battery.  Whichever battery is on the same side of the switch as the alternator, that battery will always be charging and the other battery will get charged when the ACR combines.

The other thing to think about tho is that if your stereo battery is heavily depleted (say mid 10v, so high enough that acr will still combine), just running the boat around for 20 minutes is not going to get it back to full charge ever.  It may just be that you need a bigger stereo battery bank to keep up with how you want to use your stereo.  This is where people start looking at multiple group 29s or the two 6v golf cart batteries run in series to come up with a mega bank for the stereo (IIRC 2x GC batteries = about same reserve capacity as 4x Group 29s).

Link to comment
10 hours ago, BlitzedVLX said:

It is my understanding that with this setup the boat should charge the battery in need while underway correct?  So shouldn't the stereo always play normally with the engine running?

No and no. The ACR 7610 is way simpler. It monitors the voltage on the main side and house side. If the voltage is up on the main side, it closes and sends alternator supply to the house side. If the house side is low, it opens, disconnecting the main side from the house loads. The 7610 manual will tell you what they close and open voltage thresholds are. The best way to diagnose, is to use a volt meter. 

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...