2004 VLX rear ballast pump !dead!

[AJwakedevil]

Hola amigos,

My stock stern port (rear left) 800gph aerator pump went out this week. I am dreading replacing it due to the location of the pump. Under the stern center seat, it sits way down in there. It has not been replaced ever, so I expect to run into resistance as I try to remove it and replace it. 

Also, I am upgrading to the 1200gph 1" aerator pump. I have a 3/4" thru hull, so I am using some brass fittings to convert it down. This is adding some height to the whole pump setup, and I hope it does not cause any problems.

 

Anyone have experience replacing these stern pumps, know what to expect, and confirm my new setup will fit? 
Also, will reducing the 1" intake on the pump to 3/4" for the thru hull decrease flow or is it only the discharge diameter that limits flow significantly? 

Thanks, 

AJ

 

p.s. - I want to integrate a front ballast nose sac because my center locker is only 400# and I do not enjoy filling my ronix bags (fast but messy to drain). How much weight can I expect to gain from this sac (650# sac but the measurements do not match as the compartment is smaller), is it worth the ~$400? I will use a T fitting and a ball valve to split the fill line. Where it gets sketchy/ghetto is trying to connect the two drain holes of the bags (center and nose) to a T fitting, and off the T fitting have the drain pump running to the existing thru hull drain hole with no vent line for the new nose sac (do not want to make another hole in the hull). Any problems with that setup idea besides the amount of time it will take to fill/drain?

Edited April 28, 2016 by AJwakedevil

[racer808]

I believe with the reducer to 3/4" you are not getting the 1200 gph & would probably be getting 800 gph anyway.  Others can chime in?  As for Bow, you will never get that 650 full from what I understand.  I was going to run the plumbing just like you're doing with a off/on valve & use an above the seat bow sac.  My boat liked 750-800 up front so that was my plan.  Bag would be on top but the plumbing would be automated so you just plug it in & let it sit on the seats.  

[malibu2004]

Why not just replace the guts of it? Unscrew the screw, twist the blue ring and pull it out. Put new guts in, twist blue ring down, put in screw and your done. Takes about 5 minutes. 

[Ndawg12]

4 minutes ago, malibu2004 said:

Why not just replace the guts of it? Unscrew the screw, twist the blue ring and pull it out. Put new guts in, twist blue ring down, put in screw and your done. Takes about 5 minutes. 

Might want to connect his wires too  so 6 minutes!!

Those tanks are only like 200lbs right?  The difference between the 800 vs 1200 would be a matter of seconds.  Just buy this and be done.

http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=1613

[AJwakedevil]

3 hours ago, Ndawg12 said:

Those tanks are only like 200lbs right?  The difference between the 800 vs 1200 would be a matter of seconds.  Just buy this and be done.

 

 

 

tank buster 750s in each corner.

(750lbs / 8.1lbs/gal)= 92.6gal  

800.0gal/hr x .0167hr/min = 13.36gal/min   OR   1200gal/hr x .0167 = 20.04gal/min

92.6gal / 13.36gal/min =6.9min    OR     92.6gal / 20.04gal/min =4.6min

 2.3 min is enough time saving for me. Also if the balance is off with everyone comfortable where they are it will fill quicker to balance.

6 hours ago, racer808 said:

I believe with the reducer to 3/4" you are not getting the 1200 gph & would probably be getting 800 gph anyway.  Others can chime in?  As for Bow, you will never get that 650 full from what I understand.  I was going to run the plumbing just like you're doing with a off/on valve & use an above the seat bow sac.  My boat liked 750-800 up front so that was my plan.  Bag would be on top but the plumbing would be automated so you just plug it in & let it sit on the seats.  

 

5

from wakemakers.com

Size-----Capacity-----Recommended Pump

3/4"--1,440GPHSingle-- 3/4" Aerator Pump

1"--2,200GPHSingle-- 1" Aerator or Single Impeller Pump

1-1/4"--5,900GPH--High Capacity Aerator Pump

1-1/2"--7,560GPH--Ultra-High Capacity Aerator Pumps

so with that said will the 1" pump be able to pull 1200 of the 1440gph available from the 3/4"?

Mine likes the #800 ronix sac up front if im wedge+750 each corner+400center. It also likes the #1100 up front if I'm using wedge+750 each corner+ #800 on floor+400center (light crew)

what do you guess the sac will get? ~#400?

3 hours ago, malibu2004 said:

Why not just replace the guts of it? Unscrew the screw, twist the blue ring and pull it out. Put new guts in, twist blue ring down, put in screw and your done. Takes about 5 minutes. 

 

 

I have no understanding of the "guts" meaning I have never done any work or seen any done down there. First, how do I access it? Am I just going to have to deal with the tight space? Second, will increasing the size of the fitting require an increase in the size of the hole? 

Edited April 28, 2016 by AJwakedevil

[malibu2004]

2 hours ago, Ndawg12 said:

Might want to connect his wires too  so 6 minutes!!

Those tanks are only like 200lbs right?  The difference between the 800 vs 1200 would be a matter of seconds.  Just buy this and be done.

http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=1613

Look at the link in Ndawg12 post. That is the guts I'm referring to. You're making it way harder than it needs to be. 

 

[blk93jeepzj]

For you to be able to take advantage of the 1200 vs 800 GPH difference a couple of things will have to be reconfigured.  The 1200 and 800 both use the same "guts", this means the same motor (that was linked by Ndawg), the difference in flow rates is in the housing around the motors.  Both have an inlet of threaded 3/4" NPT.  The 800 outlet is also 3/4" hose barb and the 1200 outlet is a 1 1/8" hose barb.

Now to really get the 1200 GPH flow rate the hoses will need to be changed to 1 1/8" hose.   

How to repair a ballast pump.

 

[AJwakedevil]

9 hours ago, malibu2004 said:

Look at the link in Ndawg12 post. That is the guts I'm referring to. You're making it way harder than it needs to be. 

 

 

Thanks for making that clearer. I just want to replace the whole thing due to three other pumps in the boat having their plastic barbs snapping off in the last two weeks. They are 12 years old. Yeah, dont fix it if its not broken, but why spend the money to half fix it when I will need to spend the whole amount soon after to replace the whole thing. Figure get it done and over with. 

9 hours ago, blk93jeepzj said:

For you to be able to take advantage of the 1200 vs 800 GPH difference a couple of things will have to be reconfigured.  The 1200 and 800 both use the same "guts", this means the same motor (that was linked by Ndawg), the difference in flow rates is in the housing around the motors.  Both have an inlet of threaded 3/4" NPT.  The 800 outlet is also 3/4" hose barb and the 1200 outlet is a 1 1/8" hose barb.

Now to really get the 1200 GPH flow rate the hoses will need to be changed to 1 1/8" hose.   

How to repair a ballast pump.

 

2

Thanks for the video. If the total replacement is too difficult I will revert to this. I have the new hose with the larger diameter to plumb in.

[Ndawg12]

FYI, unlike an impeller pump, aerator pumps don't suck much at all, they rely on head pressure and thus need to be mounted below the waterline.  Experts here have told me many times that a 3/4" inlet is more than adequate for a 1200gph.  I can make sense of that in garage engineer terms upon request

[sidekicknicholas]

Before you start tearing apart, have you pulled the pump apart to make sure it didn't get jammed up and popped a fuse?