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tparider

Directions for adding Fly High Pro X sacs to exising pumps?

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tparider

I've read most of the ballast posts in the forum, but have yet to see a full write up on how to add the Pro X series sacs to utilize the existing pumps. More specifically, how to t-off the pumps using some sort of valve system (what kind, where to buy, how much?) and use the stock pumps to fill new rear sacs, along with what size PVC fittings for the T's, hoses and their sizes, and any other parts that are needed in addition to the Fly High sacs and their parts, which I'm only partly familiar with as well. I definitely got some good info about the Fly High connections on some posts that I searched for though...

I'm also interested in adding a T to the bilge area in the center of the floor with a valve of some sort and a quick connect fitting so that I can use a hose (stored elsewhere) to attach to the fill/empty pumps in the floor in that location and fill/empty a sac on the floor and in the bow.

Can anyone shed light on this, or point me to a post in the forum that I missed with this info in it?

Thanks a bunch!

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tparider

So I was out on the boat this morning trying to size up the project, and have a question.

I was able to find the fill pumps for the 2 rear stock tanks, as well as the middle and front stock tanks; and I found the empty pump for the center tank. However, I was unable to find the empty pumps for the rear tanks and the front tank. It doesn't matter if I can't find the front empty, as I'll just use the middle empty pump for my quick connects and anticipated "semi-automatic" filling of the middle and front Fly High sacs that I'm going to add.

The question is, where are the rear tank empty pumps? They sounded like they were under the floor toward the transom. Do I have to remove a panel somewhere to access them? I'm obviously going to need to get to them if I'm going to T off of the empty pumps to empty the Fly High sacs that I'm adding back there.

anyone?

thanks again.

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tparider

Chathamsolutions - yes, I read that one. Very informative. Thanks.

I guess what I'm a little unsure of is that I'm not removing my factory hard tanks, so I'm not sure how to hook it all up and what to t-off where. I guess I could just get some sort of valve (?) and put it between the pump and the hard tank and be able to switch between filling the tank and filling the sac independently. But it would be nice if it was automated and did it on it's own - this is what I don't know how to do.

Also, I don't know where the stock empty pumps are for the rear ballast, but if I did, I assume that I'd just use the same valve idea for that as well. Again, it would be nice for it to be fully automated, but I'm not sure if this is possible with keeping the stock tanks.

Any tips?

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tparider

okay so I went to Home Depot today and was going to get some hose and other stuff to start this project (a little blindly, but start nonetheless).

I figured something out with the help of a friend today and wanted to know if anyone has done this: For adding sacs to the existing rear ballast - could I take the overflow off the stock tank, attach it to the fill of the external sac, and then for the overflow of the sac, just run that out the existing thru-hull overflow? Obviously using the necessary quick connects, but is this possible? Would it work properly?

I ran into a problem too - how am I going to switch between the existing pump emptying the stock tank and emptying the external sac? Is there any way to automate this, or will I have to have some sort of Y-valve to manually turn to position #1 and then position #2 (for stock tank and external sac) that I want drained?

anyone there?? Crazy.gif

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WakeGirl

Okay, without looking at your profile, I assumed that your tanks were above the floor which would only be true for '05 if you had a V-Ride or Sunscape. But if you have a Wakesetter, they should be below the floor. So before I go further just to clarify, are your tanks below or above the floor?

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tparider
Okay, without looking at your profile, I assumed that your tanks were above the floor which would only be true for '05 if you had a V-Ride or Sunscape. But if you have a Wakesetter, they should be below the floor. So before I go further just to clarify, are your tanks below or above the floor?

It is a Wakesetter LSV. The tanks are below the floor.

I started thinking about it and I think the simplest way to do it is to just put a y-valve at the fill/empty pumps of the rear right, rear left, and center stock ballast. I'll fill the stock as normal, and then turn the valve to fill the fly high sacs. If this is the best way, let me know.

If I do it this way, my questions are:

- should I T into the stock rear ballast overflows for the overflow on the fly high sacs?

- where are the stock empty pumps for the rear ballast? Can I add a length of braided hose so that the selector for the valve for the empty pump is more within reach in the engine area without messing up the system? (I know the plumbing has to be just so or else it won't work)

Should I do it the other way I mentioned, by connecting the external sac to the stock overflow, then the sac overflow to the already existing thru-hull?

Unrelated question - can I simply swap out the stock pumps for tsunamis and plug them into the existing hole in the bottom of the hull, or are they a different size and some adaptor is required?

Also, if I do the system the above way (with the y-valves), am I correct in assuming that the only fly high connectors I'll need are the W736, W732, W742 on each bag/hose connection location?

thanks again and sorry if this was confusing. I know I'm confused!!

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WakeGirl

No apologies necessary, I was the one with the brain cramp. Let's see....

I started thinking about it and I think the simplest way to do it is to just put a y-valve at the fill/empty pumps of the rear right, rear left, and center stock ballast. I'll fill the stock as normal, and then turn the valve to fill the fly high sacs. If this is the best way, let me know.

To be honest, it's my opinion that there is no "best" way to do this, only compromises that each person can or can't live with. I do think that this would be the simplest solution though, but there are problems that will need to be overcome (again, more compromises). The center tank....is this for a bag that you'll use on the floor or seats? If your boat is anything like mine, that center tank takes forever to fill & I personally wouldn't want to handicap that pump any further. I assume that your reasoning behind wanting to do it this way is to avoid adding more pumps & switches?

If I do it this way, my questions are:

- should I T into the stock rear ballast overflows for the overflow on the fly high sacs?

If you do, each line could flow back into the other side so check valves may be needed.

- where are the stock empty pumps for the rear ballast? Can I add a length of braided hose so that the selector for the valve for the empty pump is more within reach in the engine area without messing up the system? (I know the plumbing has to be just so or else it won't work)

The empty pump will be on the tank under the floor. Whether it's front or back, I'm not sure, but it's a mute point since you'll have to pull the entire floor panel to get to it. At that point it will be obvious. :) If you want to tee into this line without an extra pump, the connection on the bag will need to be on the bottom & your plumbing will need to be kept at least as low as that point (it shouldn't rise much or preferably not at all above the exit point of the bag). This will create difficulties with a valve setup because physically reaching it will be a PITA.

Should I do it the other way I mentioned, by connecting the external sac to the stock overflow, then the sac overflow to the already existing thru-hull?

That's a possibility & a very simple solution, but I'd be willing to wager that it will be a slow way of filling. But it would be a very simple first step to see how well it works. Then go on to something more involved if it isn't to your liking. If you ran a tee off of the overflow line from the tank & ran each line off of the tee into both the empty valve on the bottom of the sack & the fill valve on top, it might fill & drain automatically. I'd need to think that one over a bit more, but I think it would work.

Unrelated question - can I simply swap out the stock pumps for tsunamis and plug them into the existing hole in the bottom of the hull, or are they a different size and some adaptor is required?

The Tsunami 800 will plug right in (or at least it should, same size at 3/4"). The 1200 is much different at 1 1/8", & I have no idea how to make that one work with either the tank or the thru hulls for filling. I think that the Rule 1100 (or 1200, can't remember offhand) has a 3/4" inlet, but it has a 1" outlet as I recall. Mayfair makes an 1100 gph pump that is 3/4" on both sides, so that might be an alternative. I do think that the Tsunami 800 is a pretty quick little pump, so for ease of installation, cost & availability, that may be the sweet spot.

Also, if I do the system the above way (with the y-valves), am I correct in assuming that the only fly high connectors I'll need are the W736, W732, W742 on each bag/hose connection location?

I think that you'll just need the 736 & 742. The 732 is a female threaded connection that you usually screw on to a pump at the bag. Since you'll have nothing but tubing running to the bag, you should just need those barbed quick connects (W742) with the respective connections that go on the bag (W736).

Hope that helps & that it wasn't too confusing. This stuff can be really hard to visualize, especially when you have things hidden & have no idea how it looks. Crazy.gif

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eubanks

Great write up Tracie!

tparider - Let me know how it works as I am thinking about doing something similar this winter.

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tparider
To be honest, it's my opinion that there is no "best" way to do this, only compromises that each person can or can't live with. I do think that this would be the simplest solution though, but there are problems that will need to be overcome (again, more compromises). The center tank....is this for a bag that you'll use on the floor or seats? If your boat is anything like mine, that center tank takes forever to fill & I personally wouldn't want to handicap that pump any further. I assume that your reasoning behind wanting to do it this way is to avoid adding more pumps & switches?

Yes, that is the reasoning behind it, and yes, I'll put a bag on the floor and possibly one in the bow using the same connections. I'll keep the hose in storage, and then quick connect it, hit the valve, and flip the switch (ideally). I'm pretty sure that the middle tank fill pump AND the front tank fill pump are both in the center bilge area, so maybe I'll use the y-valve off the front tank fill line instead? I'm assuming that emptying in this scenario would also involve a simple y-valve on the empty line and a flip of the switch to empty. Don't see too many problems here. If there are problems, I could always switch out the center fill pump for a tsunami 800 and slap it in there to solve 2 problems - because yes, the center tank is a pig to fill.

Q: should I T into the stock rear ballast overflows for the overflow on the fly high sacs?

A: If you do, each line could flow back into the other side so check valves may be needed.

Where would I put the check valve in this scenario? On both overflow lines before they meet and exit the boat?

If you want to tee into this (empty) line without an extra pump, the connection on the bag will need to be on the bottom & your plumbing will need to be kept at least as low as that point (it shouldn't rise much or preferably not at all above the exit point of the bag). This will create difficulties with a valve setup because physically reaching it will be a PITA.

So since the plumbing has to be as low as the low point on the bag, putting a valve somewhere will probably not be an option because it will be so hard to reach in the first place. Right?

That's a possibility & a very simple solution, but I'd be willing to wager that it will be a slow way of filling. But it would be a very simple first step to see how well it works. Then go on to something more involved if it isn't to your liking. If you ran a tee off of the overflow line from the tank & ran each line off of the tee into both the empty valve on the bottom of the sack & the fill valve on top, it might fill & drain automatically. I'd need to think that one over a bit more, but I think it would work.

hmmm. So if I connected both the fill and the overflow on the sac to the stock overflow hose, where would I put each tee? I'd imagine that I would have the fill hose tee off early (as in really close to the stock tank) and go into the top fill opening of the Fly High sac; then, I'd have the over flow off the top of the Fly High sac tee into the stock overflow in a different spot, maybe more closer to the thru hull? Or would it matter? In this scenario, I'd still have to have the empty from the external sac y-valved into the empty line somehow, but then I'm back to the problem of the valve being easily accessible. Am I going to have to get a separate empty pump for the empty lines of the external sacs, have them wired in with the stock empty pumps and tee into those lines - they're just being powered by a separate pump instead of the stock pump? Also, I guess I'll tee into each of the overflow lines separately instead of bogging one or the other down too much - sound good?

The Tsunami 800 will plug right in (or at least it should, same size at 3/4"). The 1200 is much different at 1 1/8", & I have no idea how to make that one work with either the tank or the thru hulls for filling. I think that the Rule 1100 (or 1200, can't remember offhand) has a 3/4" inlet, but it has a 1" outlet as I recall. Mayfair makes an 1100 gph pump that is 3/4" on both sides, so that might be an alternative. I do think that the Tsunami 800 is a pretty quick little pump, so for ease of installation, cost & availability, that may be the sweet spot.

Great info. I'll check into getting the Tsunami 800 if I'm unhappy with the fill times.

I think that you'll just need the 736 & 742. The 732 is a female threaded connection that you usually screw on to a pump at the bag. Since you'll have nothing but tubing running to the bag, you should just need those barbed quick connects (W742) with the respective connections that go on the bag (W736).

Awesome. I guess in this situation, I'll need 8 of each of those. 1 each for the fill/empty/overflow on both rear sacs (6 each total), and 1 each on the fill/empty of the hose I'm using to tee off the center area (2 each total). Since the sac will be on the floor, I won't be using an overflow. Is there a connection that I can put on the center sac that will allow me to burp the sac more easily?

Hope that helps & that it wasn't too confusing. This stuff can be really hard to visualize, especially when you have things hidden & have no idea how it looks. Crazy.gif

No way, that was awesome. If you have time, check out this post and see if you can add some more insight.

Last question - on the braided hose - is it 3/4 inch inside diameter hose that I need? How much should I get? Like 20 feet? Or more?

By the way, I started putting stuff in the shopping cart at Buywake and after inputting the discount code, noticed that it is only 10% now instead of 20%? Is this right?

Thanks once again.

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WakeGirl
Yes, that is the reasoning behind it, and yes, I'll put a bag on the floor and possibly one in the bow using the same connections. I'll keep the hose in storage, and then quick connect it, hit the valve, and flip the switch (ideally). I'm pretty sure that the middle tank fill pump AND the front tank fill pump are both in the center bilge area, so maybe I'll use the y-valve off the front tank fill line instead? I'm assuming that emptying in this scenario would also involve a simple y-valve on the empty line and a flip of the switch to empty. Don't see too many problems here. If there are problems, I could always switch out the center fill pump for a tsunami 800 and slap it in there to solve 2 problems - because yes, the center tank is a pig to fill.

Yes, they are both located in the center bilge behind the center tank. I do think that coming off of the front tank's fill pump is a better idea.

Where would I put the check valve in this scenario? On both overflow lines before they meet and exit the boat?

If you put a tee or a y fitting to allow for 2 overflow lines, you would possibly need a check valve on each line before it goes into 1 line & to the thru hull. If you plumb things like I'm about to describe though, you won't have 2 overflow lines so this could be a mute point.

So since the plumbing has to be as low as the low point on the bag, putting a valve somewhere will probably not be an option because it will be so hard to reach in the first place. Right?

Exactly. I wouldn't say that it's absolutely not an option, but it creates difficulties.

That's a possibility & a very simple solution, but I'd be willing to wager that it will be a slow way of filling. But it would be a very simple first step to see how well it works. Then go on to something more involved if it isn't to your liking. If you ran a tee off of the overflow line from the tank & ran each line off of the tee into both the empty valve on the bottom of the sack & the fill valve on top, it might fill & drain automatically. I'd need to think that one over a bit more, but I think it would work.

hmmm. So if I connected both the fill and the overflow on the sac to the stock overflow hose, where would I put each tee? I'd imagine that I would have the fill hose tee off early (as in really close to the stock tank) and go into the top fill opening of the Fly High sac; then, I'd have the over flow off the top of the Fly High sac tee into the stock overflow in a different spot, maybe more closer to the thru hull? Or would it matter? In this scenario, I'd still have to have the empty from the external sac y-valved into the empty line somehow, but then I'm back to the problem of the valve being easily accessible. Am I going to have to get a separate empty pump for the empty lines of the external sacs, have them wired in with the stock empty pumps and tee into those lines - they're just being powered by a separate pump instead of the stock pump? Also, I guess I'll tee into each of the overflow lines separately instead of bogging one or the other down too much - sound good?

I think that I wasn't clear on what I was trying to describe. Basically, if you do it like I was thinking, you would be filling & emptying the bag through the overflow off of the tank & not mess with either the fill or empty lines on the tank. My thought is that you could leave the fill & empty lines on the tank intact & take the end of the overflow line & tee off of it there. One line off of the tee would go to a valve on the top of the bag to fill it, & one would go to the bottom valve to empty. It would fill from pressure created by a full tank, & if I'm right it wouldn't start filling until the tank is full. And it would empty by using gravity to siphon back down into the tank through that bottom valve as the tank empties. The third valve on the bag would go to the thru hull on the boat & act as an overflow. The only problem with this scenario is that it has the potential to empty through the fill pump from too much pressure, so a check valve inline right after the fill pump may be called for (or possibly after the loop that they put in the line at the factory, you don't want to create an airlock problem). The only thing that I'm not completely sure of is whether or not they have an actual dedicated fitting off of the tank for overflow. In the past when they've used bags (like for the center MLS), they've only had fittings for filling & emptying, so the way that they achieved an overflow is to reverse a y on the fill line that basically acted as a pressure relief valve. It sucked because if you had air in the bag, it wouldn't burp it the way that a true overflow line would have. If they've set things up that way, it would complicate things. But that can be overcome, we can cross that bridge when we come to it. There are potential problems with this, the biggest is that I think you'd have to basically leave the bags hooked up to utilize the overflow line for the tanks, unless there is a way of using quick connects for that overflow line to easily connect it back & forth between the tee & a hose to the thru hull. I need to think about that a little more.

The other way to do this is to just put tees or y's on all 3 lines. You would most likely need to use check valves on the fill & overflow lines, but it might be an easier solution than what I'm talking about above, I don't know. The nice thing about the empty is that gravity will be your friend on that.

Awesome. I guess in this situation, I'll need 8 of each of those. 1 each for the fill/empty/overflow on both rear sacs (6 each total), and 1 each on the fill/empty of the hose I'm using to tee off the center area (2 each total). Since the sac will be on the floor, I won't be using an overflow. Is there a connection that I can put on the center sac that will allow me to burp the sac more easily?

Each sack has 3 fittings, so you'd need a total of 6 each, unless I'm missing something.

Last question - on the braided hose - is it 3/4 inch inside diameter hose that I need? How much should I get? Like 20 feet? Or more?

Both Lowe's & Home Depot have the 3/4" ID braided tubing that you can buy by the foot, that's the stuff to get IMO. No idea on how much, just try to measure & get close & be prepared to make multiple trips. Crazy.gif

By the way, I started putting stuff in the shopping cart at Buywake and after inputting the discount code, noticed that it is only 10% now instead of 20%? Is this right?

Yeah, I guess they've changed it. Bummer, but 10% is still better than nothing.

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tparider

no more quoting!! hahaha

well, I like the simplicity of the Y-valve idea, but it has it's problems because the ease of accessing the valve to turn it when I need to may be hindered by the pump/hose location.

I like the idea of doing the connections to the overflow hose (or empty hose, depending on if there is actually a dedicated overflow hose), but I'm concerned about the emptying in this scenario.

Regarding the overflow line - couldn't I just use the same hoses and quick connects as on the fill/empty lines in order to remove the bags? Maybe you were referring to having a line out in the open with no bag attached to it and water going everywhere. If that was the case, I guess I could just get a ball valve and close that off when the bag wasn't in use.

I guess i added up 8 connectors since I'll use the 6 you mentioned, plus an additional 2 for the fill/empty off the front stock fill/empty pumps to use to fill a center and bow sac that will just be on the floor.

What if I used the y-valve idea for the fill, tee'd into the overflow for the overflow on the sac, and then just got 2 extra pumps and installed them by cutting into the factory empty pump wiring, and into the factory empty line? Then when I hit the empty switch on the dash, both the stock and new additional pumps would turn on, and there would be no issue with the FH sac siphoning, since it has a dedicated pump working for it. Would this work? Obviiously it would cost me a little more with having to buy 2 more pumps, but would it work is the question. I suppose I could get a couple of the tsunami 800s, and use them as the fill pumps for the rear or the middle/front, then remove the existing pumps and use those as the new empty pumps. hmmmmmm

Edited by tparider

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eubanks

How much weight are you planning on adding out of curiosity? We have the same boat and run stock (no wedge) plus 400's in the trunks and a 750 in the bow for a total of 2,800. Are you talking about putting an additional sac in the walkway? The wake with 2,800 is pretty darn sweet. What prop are you running?

Sorry to hijack your post.

Edited by eubanks

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WakeGirl

Thinking more about the y-fitting idea, I don't know that it would be a problem as long as you had a check valve close to the empty pump to keep it from draining out when it's full. That way you wouldn't have to shut the ball valve when the bag is full & you could reach it when it's empty easy enough. I would think that that should work for the fill side. Not knowing how the overflow is set up could complicate things, but I don't see it as a huge problem.

For the empty, I'd run it back either through the tank's overflow or the tank's fill line by way of a y or tee in that overflow line, as close to the tank with as short of a line as possible. Both the overflow & fill lines go into the top of the tank, so that way when you empty things, the bag will just drain itself into the tank by way of gravity as long as you have the empty line coming from the bottom of the bag. You would almost certainly need a ball valve on this line as well (unless you just split the line that fills the bag & put a ball valve before that split - that might be better).

So it would go something like this:

raw water intake -> fill pump -> check valve -> tee or y splits line ->

-> line 1 to bag -> ball valve -> another y or tee splits line -> line 1 to a top fitting on bag, line 2 to bottom fitting on bag -> quick connect fittings on both

-> line 2 to tank

(I hope that made sense.) Like I said before, the check valve down near the fill pump should eliminate the need to close the ball valve when the bag is full, & reaching that once it's empty shouldn't be an issue.

For overflow, another option is to just not have an overflow line. A little risky, yes, but it's not like you're going to have those compartments shut when you're filling the bags, right? If you get air in there, you can just pull the cap on that third valve on the bag to burp it & put it back on, & you'll be watching it to make sure it gets full anyway. That would greatly simplify things. If you really want do an overflow line, it would be easy enough to do, but you'd have to have either a ball valve or check valve on the line from the bag at the very least to shut that flow off from the tank.

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G-Pac

TPARIDER-

Like you, I was thinking this through awhile back and came up with a similar idea for utilizing the existing pumps and hoses to add two (2) new Fly High Sacs. I ran this by the dealer who suggested that I, instead, install a new dedicated fill and drain pump for each of the new sacs I wanted to install and they came back with a quote of $1,900.00 for this. Of which ~$450.00 was for parts (4 new Tsunami pumps, clamps, fittings, hoses, etc.). No thanks!!

I like Wakegirl's solution, but consider it to be more than I am willing to commit to as a DIY project, and without ANY experience cutting through the hull and wiring, I have zero confidence and no strong desire to mess up my new 2006 LSV.

I am working with some friends, who have successfully and expertly plumbed their 2003 MC X2, to come up with a solution and we are thinking about "piggy backing" off the existing system, without removing the stock hard tanks. As we develop the idea more I will post that info as we just started brainstorming over the weekend.

For now I thought I would share a schematic (below) that I pulled together in MS PowerPoint that may help in the planning of a job like this. I can also send you the source powerpoint file if you would like it to revise as you see fit, it is in JPEG format now in order to post here.

Good Luck.

G-Pac

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tparider

By your diagram, I notice that you've surmised that the empty pumps empty water back out the thru-hull instead of out the overflow? I don't think this is right. I believe that the empty lines tie into the overflows and pump out the side of the boat.

I've purchased my FlyHigh sacs (2 440s and 1 680 for the floor), and most of the quick connect fittings. I also have all my 3/4 braided hose and all the barbed nylon T's that I'll be using, as well as a few ball valves and some check valves.

I'm thinking that my plan is as simple as you're going with - specifically, T into the factory fill line directly to the sacs on both sides. The stock ballast will begin to overflow as it's filled, so I may have a ball valve in there somewhere to stop the flow of water to the hard tanks and give it all to the sac. I'll also probably add a check valve in there so that I don't get any backflow out the fill lines. Next, I'll have the empty lines of the sac T'd into the empty lines of the factory ballast right after the empty pump, and the overflow of the sacs T'd into the same lines. I may get a little faster fill time with the overflow of the stock tank being connected to the overflow of the sac due to backfilling, so that would be okay. THis is where I'm at so far, so keep posting.

I'm planning to do this on Thursday morning so I'll take some pics of what I decide on and how the process goes.

Edited by tparider

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tparider
How much weight are you planning on adding out of curiosity? We have the same boat and run stock (no wedge) plus 400's in the trunks and a 750 in the bow for a total of 2,800. Are you talking about putting an additional sac in the walkway? The wake with 2,800 is pretty darn sweet. What prop are you running?

Sorry to hijack your post.

Sorry I didn't answer this sooner -

I'm going to be running stock plus the rear 440's plus a 680 on the floor and 2 350's in the bow, plus the wedge (and careful driving). Stock prop, so there's a little time there, but that's the next upgrade. Yes, the wake is sweet - it seems like it gets better and better, no matter how much weight you add.

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tparider

Hey Wakegirl -

One more question for you - okay, remember how I'm trying to set things up so that I have a way to quick connect to the fill/empty pumps in the center floor bilge? After I finish filling, how am I going to get the hose off of the sac and cap it off so I don't have a hose hanging out of there all afternoon? Will I have to just be really fast with it, or is there some connection that will allow water in but none to go out?

thanks

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WakeGirl

I was thinking that they'd stay there, but maybe we're not thinking in the same direction on this. I just assumed that once you hooked up your bags & filled them, that they'd be okay with lines hooked up to them. Are you concerned with piling stuff on top of them?

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tparider
I was thinking that they'd stay there, but maybe we're not thinking in the same direction on this. I just assumed that once you hooked up your bags & filled them, that they'd be okay with lines hooked up to them. Are you concerned with piling stuff on top of them?

I'm talking about the 680 sac in the center of the floor... I'm t-ing off the center floor pumps in that bilge area to the left of the driver's seat to fill/empty the center floor sac...

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WakeGirl

That's right, you'd spoken of augmenting the center ballast, correct? That makes sense, you want to be able to easily disconnect that line in order to shut . That part could get complicated, let me try to think it through.

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tparider

Does the W730 allow for connection of a pump or quick connect and subsequent disconnect without the water going everywhere? They are $13 a piece but if it works that way, I really only have to get 1 of them since I can fill and empty out of the same hole and have 2 separate hoses with quick connects that come off the fill and empty pumps in that area. Then I can just cap off the other 2 holes.

What does the W730 do?

Also, I've seen you recommend the W732 as a part needed for ballast set up - what does this piece do and why would I need it or not need it?

thanks again.

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WakeGirl

Actually, I've only recommended the W732 for connection directly to a pump. The W732 has a female thread on one side of it, the other fits into the W730. The W730 has 2 pieces - one piece has male thread on one side that screws into the sack, the other piece fits inside of that fitting to seal it. The fitting that screws into the sack fits together with the W732 to create a quick connect fitting. Now, I think that in your other thread it was mentioned that Fly High's site says that the W732 is for garden hose connection, but I don't see a good use for that personally. I use it for connecting directly to a pump, then connecting that to the W730 & using that as an easy way to pull the pump off if I want to pull the bags out. Nothing more than that. As I recall, each Pro X sack comes with one W730.

To answer your question, it does not stop the flow of water at all. There is this fitting, but I have no idea how it works without having one to play with.

Fly High Pro X Check Valve Filling Adapter

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tparider
Actually, I've only recommended the W732 for connection directly to a pump. The W732 has a female thread on one side of it, the other fits into the W730. The W730 has 2 pieces - one piece has male thread on one side that screws into the sack, the other piece fits inside of that fitting to seal it. The fitting that screws into the sack fits together with the W732 to create a quick connect fitting. Now, I think that in your other thread it was mentioned that Fly High's site says that the W732 is for garden hose connection, but I don't see a good use for that personally. I use it for connecting directly to a pump, then connecting that to the W730 & using that as an easy way to pull the pump off if I want to pull the bags out. Nothing more than that. As I recall, each Pro X sack comes with one W730.

To answer your question, it does not stop the flow of water at all. There is this fitting, but I have no idea how it works without having one to play with.

Fly High Pro X Check Valve Filling Adapter

Now I'm really confused. I thought the W742 and W736 were used together to create a quick connect? Now you're saying that it's the W730 and the W732 that creates the quick connect fitting?

I'm starting to hate this stuff... Crazy.gifCrazy.gifCrazy.gif

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WakeGirl

I know, I know. It's really hard to know what you'll need & what all of the fittings function as without being able to see them up close & personal. Here's the rundown:

- W730 attaches to the bag & combined with either the W732 (3/4") or W734 (1 1/8" for Tsunami pump) works together to create a quick connect fitting that ends in female thread, usually attached directly to a pump.

- W736 attaches to the bag & combines with either W742 (90 degree elbow) or W740 (straight) to create a quick connect fitting that ends in a barbed fitting that 3/4" ID hose can fit on. This fitting is also referred to as the Flow-Rite fittings & also comes in a 1" variant.

The 2 systems are different & you can't use one fitting from on the other, they have a different attachment mechanism. So looking closer at the check valve adapter that I linked to, it appears that it works with the first system. You'd need a W732 to connect into it....how you'd make that work with your system, I'm not sure.

I hope that's a bit clearer. What's confusing things is the need in your system to have some sort of quick shutoff. On the rear tanks that's pretty easy, but that front setup is a challenge.

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