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PhishJY

Gauge Pod/Instrument Cluster Loose

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PhishJY

In some rough water, the 2 studs on the bottom of the instrument cluster (see 2nd pic below) broke off.  This has been repaired under warranty once, but I don't think the epoxy was quite strong enough and they broke again.  I'm out of warranty, so it's my problem now.

I am considering using some JB Weld epoxy putty to re-attach new, more substantial studs to the bottom of the cluster.  However, I'm not quite sure which product to use.  I found this: http://www.jbweld.com/products/plasticweld-epoxy-putty but the description specifically states: 

Quote

Does not adhere to polyethylene, polypropylene or some other plastics

Those of you with plastics knowledge, can you help me out?  Will this product work, or has anyone had success with other products binding metal to plastic?

Thanks to nyryan for the pics in another thread!

On July 25, 2013 at 7:50 AM, nyryan2001 said:

my plastic Malibu dash falling apart

707442BD-C6B0-44B7-A1FD-3EFDE5B65B1D-898D1A29D3E-BA21-4473-8CDF-C6287EB0F31E-898

Edited by PhishJY

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wdr

I just replaced my upper dash pad due to stitching failure and I had the same issue and used the JB Weld quick cure and in this application that stuff is the bomb! Where the stud broke off I cleaned up all of the loose epoxy and with my dremel tool and a straight shank bit (milling bit I guess you would call it) created a slightly larger hole in the old epoxy for the stud to sit in and then made an "X" channel for the JB to set into for a better grip. I applied the JB in a larger area than the original epoxy and ramped it up the stud higher than the original epoxy as well. Pay attention to the stud angle in relation to the bezel, or the studs will have to be bent to get them to align into the dash holes if they are set at a right angle to the bezel! Getting the dash bezel out or in was a Greek Tradgedy until I modified the fiberglass helm base so I could reach the upper dash pad screws. Basically I went under the dash and drilled 2 half inch holes so I could reach the 2 hidden screws under the upper dash pad. Malibu puts the dashpad and bezel together first and then drops it onto the helm station so those screws are unaccessable to us mere mortals afterward. Shoot me a pm if you want talk the finer details and I will give you my number.

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TexasTexas95

This is a very important topic. I am fortunate enough to have one stud left on my dash where I am able to tighten it down. I can see where one of the epoxy studs broke off prior to my ownership and have thought about replacing as well. I wonder if maybe you might be able to measure where you drilled the holes for an X marks the spot reference for guys like me who would like to re-epoxy a few new studs back in place. I feel like it's only a matter of time before the other one fails. Every year as apart of my maintenance schedule, I try and check every visible screw and nut and Allen head to ensure snug fits and no rattling in the boat. I also check the bilge area for any new brass nuts or screws that may have backed off over time. This is also a good way to make sure everything visually checks out and you aren't running into any possible future problems. 

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TexasTexas95

BTW 96 hours and the dash is falling apart is kinda BS in my opinion. 

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PhishJY

Thanks for the quick replies!

8 hours ago, wdr said:

I just replaced my upper dash pad due to stitching failure and I had the same issue and used the JB Weld quick cure and in this application that stuff is the bomb! Where the stud broke off I cleaned up all of the loose epoxy and with my dremel tool and a straight shank bit (milling bit I guess you would call it) created a slightly larger hole in the old epoxy for the stud to sit in and then made an "X" channel for the JB to set into for a better grip. I applied the JB in a larger area than the original epoxy and ramped it up the stud higher than the original epoxy as well. Pay attention to the stud angle in relation to the bezel, or the studs will have to be bent to get them to align into the dash holes if they are set at a right angle to the bezel! Getting the dash bezel out or in was a Greek Tradgedy until I modified the fiberglass helm base so I could reach the upper dash pad screws. Basically I went under the dash and drilled 2 half inch holes so I could reach the 2 hidden screws under the upper dash pad. Malibu puts the dashpad and bezel together first and then drops it onto the helm station so those screws are unaccessable to us mere mortals afterward. Shoot me a pm if you want talk the finer details and I will give you my number.

The loose cluster managed to rip a small hole in the vinyl, so I too am looking at an upper dash pad replacement now.  I don't think I'm going to have near the issues you did, because when I looked up from under the dash, I saw exactly where the studs go & won't have any problem getting to them.  I wonder if the dealer modified my helm when they did the repair last time.  I'll get some pics next weekend.  Once I have pics, I'll be in touch.

6 hours ago, TexasTexas95 said:

BTW 96 hours and the dash is falling apart is kinda BS in my opinion. 

I'd say I was around 100 hrs. when mine broke.  Now, I'm at 255 hrs.  I'd have thought my boat would've stood up to a little rough water better than it did.  But, my expectations are set going forward.

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wdr

PhishJY, LOL oh my friend I hope you are correct and our dash pad assembly/disassembly procedures aren't the same! However, I would be willing to bet a new M235 that they are exactly the same from looking at your picture. I can see my studs as well from under the dash. You can pull the bezel out with a little effort after pulling the upper bezel screw and rolling it out toward you if the studs are loose. It will be real easy to do if your studs are broken off or you just have one. Once you fix or replace the bottom studs, if you want to get the bezel reinstalled w/o bending or breaking a stud off again you are going to have to remove the upper dash pad screws closet to the front dash pad corners to be able to raise the upper splash pad high enough to reinstall the bezel. That is when the problems will start.

TT95, when my stud broke off it left a hole where it had been originally epoxied on. I just enlarged that hole in the original epoxy to be able to fill it with JBW and starting inside that hole carved 4 grooves in the shape of an X from that hole outward. I was hoping the laterally spread the load and improve the adhesion of the JBW deeper than just a stuck on top band aid fix. If you need a measurement center to center for the studs you can measure the two holes in the lower dash pad to confirm the distance. I used little plastic caps on the end of the studs so I wouldn't poke a hole in the dash pad when I reinstalled it. I almost forgot, when I reinstalled the bezel I used a rubber grommet per stud so when I tightened it up I could isolate any rattle or vibration before I made dash to bezel contact. There is still some movement but no vibration or abrasion between the two and it's not putting as much strain on the studs. The same offer is open shoot, me a pm and I will give you my number. Bill

Edited by wdr

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wdr

In hind site and of course after I replaced mine, you may very well be able to get the bezel n with out all of the previously mentioned drama if you measure the exposed portion an existing stud that is hanging below the dash pad. Then cut the stud so you will about a 1/2" handing below the dash pad to screw it back in. IIRC the studs were stupid long and way overkill length wise for how it is used! You may still have to pull up on the upper dash pad a little, but nothing that would bend or break anything I wouldn't think.

Edited by wdr

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PhishJY
On April 18, 2016 at 8:54 PM, wdr said:

PhishJY, LOL oh my friend I hope you are correct and our dash pad assembly/disassembly procedures aren't the same! However, I would be willing to bet a new M235 that they are exactly the same from looking at your picture. I can see my studs as well from under the dash. You can pull the bezel out with a little effort after pulling the upper bezel screw and rolling it out toward you if the studs are loose. It will be real easy to do if your studs are broken off or you just have one. Once you fix or replace the bottom studs, if you want to get the bezel reinstalled w/o bending or breaking a stud off again you are going to have to remove the upper dash pad screws closet to the front dash pad corners to be able to raise the upper splash pad high enough to reinstall the bezel. That is when the problems will start.

I was wrong.  You were right.  The port side stud will be easy to get in.  The starboard side?  Well, that's going to be a different story.

 

Port%20Edited_zpsleqo9xvu.jpg

Starboard%20Edited_zpsmytppgvl.jpg

To illustrate the angle:

Removed_zpse7zxadvz.jpg

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PhishJY
On April 19, 2016 at 8:12 PM, wdr said:

In hind site and of course after I replaced mine, you may very well be able to get the bezel n with out all of the previously mentioned drama if you measure the exposed portion an existing stud that is hanging below the dash pad. Then cut the stud so you will about a 1/2" handing below the dash pad to screw it back in. IIRC the studs were stupid long and way overkill length wise for how it is used! You may still have to pull up on the upper dash pad a little, but nothing that would bend or break anything I wouldn't think.

Yep.  Here's one of the studs that broke off.  You can see how much of the thread wasn't needed:

 

Stud.jpg

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wdr

Sorry to be the barer of bad news. If you reach under the lower dash pad, directly underneath where both corners of the upper dash pad rest you will feel where the screws screw into the upper dash pad to hold it to the lower dash pad. Directly below those 2 screw heads is where I drilled my 1/2 holes in the fiberglass helm base. That way I could install the upper dash pad screws from under the helm after I installed and tightened the bezel. A magnetized screw driver will make a lot of cussing go away!? I also put a couple pieces of painters tape on the dash to mark the forward limit of the upper dash pad before I removed it so I wasn't playing "where's Waldo" for the original screw holes in the upper dash pad on reinstallation. Good luck. Bill

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