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Adding Head-unit to switch - A few questions


sidekicknicholas

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Heyyo,

I would like to move my head-unit's power to a switch rather than tied to the key.  When I do this I'll also tie in a bluetooth receiver to power on/off with it.  The problem is our current dash is out of space for a switch, so if anyone else has added, where did you add the switch(es)?  Currently switches all have a purpose too, so I can just pop a music cover on one of them.

 

Left side of Wheel:

Horn / Lights 1 = Interior / Lights 2 = Nav and Anchor lights / ACC 1 = Power hubs on boat (could tie into this if I had to) / 2x MLS

Right Side of Wheel:

1x MLS / 2x ACC (1x is forward flood lights, 1x is rear flood lights on tower) / Blower / Bilge

 

When I go to do this is it as simple as tracing my RED head unit power wire back to the ignition and relocating it to a switch?... and tie in the bluetooth's power here too.

 

Thanks!

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I did this last night.  See this thread for more info - AQUI.  

For reference, I also have a Bluetooth unit wired into the red wire.  My Bluetooth is tied in immediately adjacent to the head unit. All I did was trace the red signal wire back to the ignition.  In my case it was changed over to a white wire with a blue stripe.  Yellow constant was a white wire with a purple stripe that went elsewhere.  I removed the white with blue from the ignition, changed the connection to a plug and put it on the switch.  In my case I happen to have a last switch open.

Do you ever use the forward/rear flood lights separately? Tie them together to open up a switch?  Or is there a place where you could change a on/off switch to a on/off/on switch to free up a space.  For example, I doubt you ever run the blower and the bilge at the same time.  You could use a new switch that is blower power on / all off / bilge power on?

 

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Do you ever use the forward/rear flood lights separately? Tie them together to open up a switch?  Or is there a place where you could change a on/off switch to a on/off/on switch to free up a space.  For example, I doubt you ever run the blower and the bilge at the same time.  You could use a new switch that is blower power on / all off / bilge power on?

I almost never use the rear facing lights ... the forward sometimes for docking sake if we're pulling onto the lift at night.... I don't use them much because they pull a TON of power, I plan on swapping them all for LEDs this spring.

As for stealing an existing switch, I figured the ACC that controls the 12v plugs around the boat makes sense, I honestly don't think I've ever actually had anything plugged into them to date.  And I can't dream up a scenario where I need the 12v plugs to have power and want the radio off.

 

 

Thanks for the link!  Sounds like it is in fact as simple as it seems.

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Sure! First and foremost, we want all equipment in the signal path, to share the same battery reference. In a dual bank setup, this is not always the case when obtaining your B+, whether switched or constant, from under the helm. Its safer to terminate the B+ and ground as close to the amps as possible. This allows us to take advantage of their natural sound filtering. Tapping into the helm electronics, even with a single battery boat, we can pick up switch clicks, trim motor pops and depth finder hums. Terminating closer to the amps and/or battery, will typically avoid these.  

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My BT isn't wired directly to the switch. The BT is butted into the red right before the red enters the head unit. 

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Tapping into the helm electronics, even with a single battery boat, we can pick up switch clicks, trim motor pops and depth finder hums. Terminating closer to the amps and/or battery, will typically avoid these.  

Ideally I would pop in somewhere near the dash / head unit since they're both near each other and the battery / amp are not.  I was hoping to stash the BT receiver somewhere around the head unit - in the 04' its the armrest mounted location.... I just figured tie in with the "new" head-unit switch since there is no reason to have BT on without having the stereo on.

 

Thanks guys for all the input!

 

BT receiver I assume I'll go with.

http://exileaudio.com/store/index.php/amplifiers/signal-processing/exile-premium-bluetooth-music-receiver.html

 

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Weather the BT is wired at the switch or at the head-unit, its still the same electrical circuit. The head-unit's red turn-on is not ideal, if its switched source is originating from the helm BUS, for reasons covered. 

I agree theres no need for the BT to be on when head-unit is off, but when are we in the boat and the audio is not on? If you only want the BT receiver on when the head-unit is on, there are ways to do this with a relay, without compromising on where the BTs getting its B+ and B-. Its easier to take the steps up front to eliminate noise, rather than going back in to fix noise after the fact. 

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I have the same BT unit that SKN is suggesting.  It sounds like we both have single battery, single amp set ups.  How would you wire the BT so that there is minimal potential for noise while ensuring the BT is only on when the head unit is on?  Also, there is the desire to avoid having the head unit/BT power down when the ignition is not on.  I'm assuming the dash switch is still the best way to accomplish this?

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This is what I had in mind (maybe Wtstapel too).... sounds like it is a bad idea from MLA's input

Splicing into the HU's pwer/remote/ground is much easier in terms of location and accessibility for me .... the reason why I w planned on doing this:

1Y4Ia.jpg

Edited by sidekicknicholas
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Thats basically what I have.  Just add an amplifier between the HU and the battery.  The way I read MLA's comments are that having the BT grounded and powered so far from the amp/battery will pick up interference and decrease sound quality.  Mine is already wired, sounds great with only the switch on.  But, that obviously doesn't answer the real question.  I'm going to test out the current set up this weekend with all the opportunities for interference.  If I have problems I'll look into moving the BT into the compartment with the battery and amplifier.  I just don't know how/where to install a relay to power the BT in that compartment.

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The way I read MLA's comments are that having the BT grounded and powered so far from the amp/battery will pick up interference and decrease sound quality

its not an actual distance thing, but rather to which circuit you actually connect the BT to. Connecting to the head-unit's turn-on trigger, may not be a clean voltage source for an audio device in the signal path This circuit can also be at a different voltage level then that of the head-units' yellow B+ and the amps B+. if so, you will likely get noise.  

 

 

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You can run a 2 conductor wire from the dash to the battery. Use one side as + for all your dash area audio (thru the rocker switch and  around it for HU always on wire). Use the other conductor for your amp remote on. Simple.

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Sorry for any confusion gents. My comments have been purely focused on the electrical and not about the physical location or mounting of the BT. In that regard, I would prefer a short RCA connection. With proper gauge wire, good splices and proper terminations, the length of those 12V wires does not concern me. 

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On April 12, 2016 at 2:53 PM, sidekicknicholas said:

Heyyo,

I would like to move my head-unit's power to a switch rather than tied to the key.  When I do this I'll also tie in a bluetooth receiver to power on/off with it.  The problem is our current dash is out of space for a switch, so if anyone else has added, where did you add the switch(es)?  Currently switches all have a purpose too, so I can just pop a music cover on one of them.

 

Left side of Wheel:

Horn / Lights 1 = Interior / Lights 2 = Nav and Anchor lights / ACC 1 = Power hubs on boat (could tie into this if I had to) / 2x MLS

Right Side of Wheel:

1x MLS / 2x ACC (1x is forward flood lights, 1x is rear flood lights on tower) / Blower / Bilge

 

When I go to do this is it as simple as tracing my RED head unit power wire back to the ignition and relocating it to a switch?... and tie in the bluetooth's power here too.

 

Thanks!

Ok, so no noise to start?... Then less of a concern doing the swap. 

Is the switch you want to use live without key right now? And if so what other ones (switches) are? This will help determine if you need to waste wire going battery direct. 

A lot of people have no noise issues doing exactly what staple told you from first post. It is easy to add a spun wire if noise is a issue after first listen. It is most definitely true that sometimes a major rewire is needed to circumvent noise but always try adding to what you have if no noise is a issue to start. If a piece causes noise, then you addresses it accordingly and you know the steps needed now. :)

 

Edited by Truekaotik
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Ok, so no noise to start?... Then less of a concern doing the swap.

Doesn't exist at the moment.  Currently using a usb/battery powered bluetooth receiver but when running off the USB power it resets any time the key clicks off, so I have to repair and its annoying as all hell.

 

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Is the switch you want to use live without key right now? And if so what other ones (switches) are? 

The switch I would tie into (ACC for 12v plugs) goes live when "ON" no matter the key/ignition position.  All other switches are this way too... but none of the others are very practical to tie the stereo in with in the sense that there would be a lot of times I wouldn't want those items "ON" while the stereo is on because there would be noticeable effects.  12v plug switch really doesn't bother anything if on.

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If a piece causes noise, then you addresses it accordingly and you know the steps needed now. 

Makes sense.... start at the easiest setup and complicate if needed.

 

Thanks!

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