Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

Deal, Ok Deal or No Deal?


Roush611

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, oldjeep said:

Could be something as simple as the rudder bushings being worn out.  Main thing is going to be to get it on a trailer where you can check everything for play/alignment.

 

As far as the raw water pump - what exactly is wrong with it?

There is a pretty good leak coming from it and it seems pretty wobbly. The tech noticed right away because he put his hands on both the exhaust risers and one was dramatically hotter than the other. 

1 hour ago, Michigan boarder said:

That is what I'd want to know, it could be just the impeller, which is an easily replaced wearable item.

The impeller was replaced December 14. The guy did not use the boat much last year 

55 minutes ago, jtryon said:

$400 off for the pump is great, you can replace that for much cheaper.  any idea how new the impeller was though?

See above. I was hoping t was just the impeller but the tech made it pretty apperant that the whole pump needs to be replaced. 

Now I just need to figure out how to do that. I've done it on a belt driven direct drive but never a crank driven v-drive. Anyone know a write up or how easy it is? I would imagine not too bad just awkward.

Link to comment

Not exactly sure if your's will be the same as my '01 with a Monsoon 325, but I pulled the whole pump off to change the impeller the first time I did it.

https://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=774

I removed all the hosed connected, then unscrewed the allen head bolts that were thru the black part on the above listed pump, taped it a few times with a rubber mallet and it popped off.  Awkward is an understatement of getting in there to remove it, I ended up just laying on top of the motor and reaching down in there.  Figure out the right size allen and get the socket style of the same size to use a socket wrench.  Much easier, I ended up swapping mid way to the socket wrench and went a lot faster.

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
2 hours ago, Roush611 said:

There is a pretty good leak coming from it and it seems pretty wobbly. The tech noticed right away because he put his hands on both the exhaust risers and one was dramatically hotter than the other. 

The impeller was replaced December 14. The guy did not use the boat much last year 

See above. I was hoping t was just the impeller but the tech made it pretty apperant that the whole pump needs to be replaced. 

Now I just need to figure out how to do that. I've done it on a belt driven direct drive but never a crank driven v-drive. Anyone know a write up or how easy it is? I would imagine not too bad just awkward.

Its not a big deal as long as the base wants to come loose from the pulley - just 3 bolts holding it to the crank pulley and one on a bracket that keeps the pump body from rotating.  I'd be wondering why one exhaust riser was dramatically hotter would be related to the raw water pump.

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
16 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

Its not a big deal as long as the base wants to come loose from the pulley - just 3 bolts holding it to the crank pulley and one on a bracket that keeps the pump body from rotating.  I'd be wondering why one exhaust riser was dramatically hotter would be related to the raw water pump.

 

 

When I pull the pump I will make sure that there is no blockage anywhere.  Temp wise when the boat was running everything read ok. 

Link to comment

I just replaced mine on a 97 sunsetter. May be completely different but looks like the same part mine is just plastic. The hardest part was getting 20yr old hose off, ended up replacing the hoses bc I had to destroy them to get the old pump off. Other than that it was super easy if you have basic mechanic skills. 

I would say thats a great buy. I bought mine last year and wish I had a V-drive. Also, I didn't care for all white boats at first... After a season on the water, if you are at all like me and hate water spots, swirls, oxidation... ect. you will love the lack of dark colors. I just spent 2 days de oxidizing and waxing my boat.. now I will def look for a white/light colored boat in the future... 

Link to comment

An inboard boat should pull to the right a bit. Pre-loads the rudder for a straighter pull of a skier/boarder without wandering as the pull changes from side to side. Search rudder tuning to dial it in to your liking--it should not have to be replaced unless the shaft is worn and has excessive play not curable by bushings.

Congrats!

Link to comment

There may be no issue with the rudder. Just want to make sure you know about prop torque. All inboards will do a hard turn if you let go of the wheel. Is that what it does?

Does sound like a good deal. Oh, just read Jk's post above. So ya, sounds like a good deal. Let us know,

Steve B.

(I have to make the big decision too :)  )

Link to comment

Well I still do not have the dang boat. There is an issue with a bank lien being placed on the trailer from the prior owner due to the release of liability not being sent in.  Looks like we have a week more of dealing with that before I can give the seller his money.  

One thing thing I did find while going through the boat though is there are seat skins made for the two cushions with rips and the left and right rear storage lockers. The current owner did not even know he had those so that is a big come up.  

Once I get the boat on the trailer (currently on a hydro hoist) I can really take a look at the rudder. I don't see it as a deal breaker if indeed I need to replace the bushing and such. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
15 hours ago, Roush611 said:

Well I still do not have the dang boat. There is an issue with a bank lien being placed on the trailer from the prior owner due to the release of liability not being sent in.  Looks like we have a week more of dealing with that before I can give the seller his money.  

One thing thing I did find while going through the boat though is there are seat skins made for the two cushions with rips and the left and right rear storage lockers. The current owner did not even know he had those so that is a big come up.  

Once I get the boat on the trailer (currently on a hydro hoist) I can really take a look at the rudder. I don't see it as a deal breaker if indeed I need to replace the bushing and such. 

Hah!  You know I had something like that happen to me last week.  I had the buyer ready with the money and the bank wanted the titles so I sent pictures over.  They noticed my trailer title was Missouri, not Texas.  I thought, uh-oh, I must not have ever retitled the trailer when the lien was paid off.  Then I think, why should I have to do that since the bank has to tell the DMV and TPWD.  I mean they did for the boat right? So why not the trailer?  I just must not have ever gotten a clean title in the mail.  So off I go on a 1 hour drive to the regional DMV to wait an hour for a copy of my trailer title.  

Well, I learned that in Texas trailers under 4000 lbs are non-titled and that ladies and gentleman is when I left an imprint of my hand on my forehead.  Got a nice letter from the clerk at the DMV stating that very thing and sent it to the buyers bank and he was on the road 30 minutes later to Texas with the check.  Other than that, it was the only hitch in a very pleasant sell.  

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...