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Losing my mind


FlyBoyCoy

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Just got the 2007 23LSV mid summer last year and put exactly 50 hrs. Took her out to dust her off and warm the oil for the first oil change (by me). Then went to remove the T-handle plug from under the port side access panel by the oil pan to then drain the oil from the oil drain line. Here is where the frustration sets in. I can not, for the life of me, get the T handle plug to loosen!!! It's making me crazy. To the point where I feel like I have to take it in to a shop to have them do it. I even tried using a crescent wrench to get some real torque on it. Aaaaaand nothing. I've had other bu's and just hand tighten these plugs and it's easy to get them undone.

Is there a trick you would try?

Thanks in advance.

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Try some Wd-40 or PB and let it sit for a while. I would be cautious in using a hammer for fear of doing damage to the fiberglass. Instead I would try using a longer cheater bar on the T. Maybe a pipe-wrench would work depending on how much room you have to work with.

Edited by Simo
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Be prepared to drill that thing out when the T handle breaks off! Definately use some sort of loosening agent before you use a cheater bar or the dreaded "C" word on it. I would use the appropriate sized open end wrench or you will most likely destroy the handle going crescent! JM2C

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Try some Wd-40 or PB and let it sit for a while. I would be cautious in using a hammer for fear of doing damage to the fiberglass. Instead I would try using a longer cheater bar on the T. Maybe a pipe-wrench would work depending on how much room you have to work with.

"Soft gentle" taps was my thought to help the lube work through the threads. Definitely wouldn't go the "bigger hammer" route if that fails! If it was my car I would hit it with a torch too - probably not so smart with fiberglass in the picture!

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After you let the penetrating oil soak in for 24 hours try dry ice in a cloth bag wrapped around the T handle shaft. rig up something to hold it before you start. Do not let it touch the fiberglass. Wear heavy winter gloves.

Heat applied to the shaft will only expand it and make it harder to remove.

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Turn it from the base of the T which has a 9/16 nut at the end. (after the penetrating oil). If you only try turning the T you will snap it of guaranteed. If all else fails and you do snap it off, replacing the thru hull garbor and T handle is not THAT expensive. BUT another thought would be buying a oil suction pump with the money that you would spend on the garbor and T handle and just suck the oil out thru the drain hose. The Vacuum style pumps work great and will also be useful if you want to drain the transmission or V drive. You will definitely want to make an adapter to hook onto the drain hose which is very easy using a female air hose fitting and a short piece of clear hose. The electric pumps are even better but a bit more money. Either type pump beats waiting to gravity drain oil by 900%. Along with letting you service your drive train components as well.

  • Like 4
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If the worse case happens, and the bottom inlet isn't sitting on a bunk, unscrew the 4 screws from the bottom and push the whole assembly down and out through the bottom of the hull. Now you can monkey grip it how ever you want to, to take it apart. Granted you have to buy a new T handle, but "Marine Hardware" has them in stock.

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I've never had much luck with penetrating oil on anything with pipe threads. I believe it's because pipe threads are designed to seal anything from getting past the threads, including penetrating oil.

I had a similar problem with the transom plug on an older boat. Got it off with a lot of torque.

Any drain plug that I install, that doesn't get removed regularly, I install with liquid Teflon pipe sealant to try to keep them from sticking.

  • Like 2
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Find a friend. Put a wrench on the nut at the bottom of the T and a closed end of another wrench around the handle. Turn left. Seriously a second person will make all the difference.

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Find a friend. Put a wrench on the nut at the bottom of the T and a closed end of another wrench around the handle. Turn left. Seriously a second person will make all the difference.

If you are into that sort of thing...

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I'd try more torque first.... Dry ice second... Don't know that penetrating oil is going to help in this case... And I'm typically a fan of that sorta thing

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My T handle vibrated loose last year. We saw water coming out from around the engine box. Looked while sitting and didn't see anything. Looked again while underway and as we're looking at it (it's spraying everywhere underway) the handle came out from it's last thread and fell over, letting in a gush of water. What timing.

So maybe that's why the handle is so tight.

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  • 3 months later...

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