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Factory vs. Aftermarket Stereo $$ Difference


Josh4mc

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I posed this in the other topic but don’t want to hijack their thread.

What would be the cost difference between a full stock system (inboats, sub, towers) versus a professionally installed after market system (Exile or Wet Sounds)?

What % off MSRP should be assumed? 15%, 25%, 35%?

This is what I have from a build sheet for stock components.

Sound System - Wake 23 LSV Pack (8 in spkrs) $3,522.00

Subwoofer - 12 inch Rockford Subwoofer (w/amp) $907.00

Black-Speakers - Wet Sounds Rev8 (1 set) $1,933.00

Black-Speakers - Wet Sounds Rev8 (2nd set) $1,833.00

Tower Amp - 500w $855.00

Total: $9050.00

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My armchair qb wild guess is that that's a $6k system in the real world.

I am too cheap and too picky to go the professionally installed route, so no comment there.

I'd be interested in a cost comparison if self installed too.

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that amount got me

-kenwood 315bt headunit

-ws 420 eq

-1 pair rev 10s

-1 ws xxxv2 sub

-3 pair ws xs 808

-2 ws sd2 amps

-1 ws sd6 amp

-blue led speaker rings for rev10s and xs808s

-custom built sub box

-all necessary wiring, fuses, distribution blocks (everything required for install)

-all installed and tuned after tax

edit: that was with a complete stereo delete from the factory so installer didn't have to mess with pulling anything out

Edited by SSinister06
  • Like 2
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Self installed, my guess:

$550 for factory grade interior speakers (go on jet.com... looked like you could get 'em for about $535 new)

$400-500 for amp to power said speakers (personal faves are arc audio KS 300.4 or JL XD 800/8)

$500 for nice sub (JLW6 or equivalent). Money to be saved if you go used (JLW6s come up regularly for $300-350 in my parts)

$500 for sub amp (factory refurb JL 750/1) (you could spend less and there are lots of options)

$50-150 for sub box. depends on prefab sealed or diy ported (construction components (mdf, glue, resin, aeroport (if desired))

$1000 for 1 pair rev10s

$275 for wetsounds G3 tower brackets (if req'd)

$500 for tower amp (factory refurb JL 750/1)

$500 for misc install bits (wire, lugs, fuses, splices, heat shrink, RCAs, etc, etc. darvex.com is your friend)

$200-300 for EQ of choice

$40 for BT dongle of choice

OPTIONAL:

Group 29 battery and box: $110

Blue Sea Add-a-Battery Kit: 100

So right about $4,500-5K for a real good self-sourced setup with nice top-shelf components.

(above prices assume you aren't adverse to doing some deal sniffing, and if you are OK with used, you could probably reduce many costs)

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Unless I knew the person installing I'm scared to let a professional touch my stuff. I've had bad experiences in the past when I was younger and my parents insisted a pro do it. There's good installers out there you just have to do your research on them. You can do the work yourself with the help of the crew!

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that amount got me

-kenwood 315bt headunit

-ws 420 eq

-1 pair rev 10s

-1 ws xxxv2 sub

-3 pair ws xs 808

-2 ws sd2 amps

-1 ws sd6 amp

-blue led speaker rings for rev10s and xs808s

-custom built sub box

-all necessary wiring, fuses, distribution blocks (everything required for install)

-all installed and tuned after tax

edit: that was with a complete stereo delete from the factory so installer didn't have to mess with pulling anything out

Who did the install around KC?

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Josh...........have you heard a system that big? You might be more than satisfied with much less.............especially if you have kids. If you do decide to go big, ordering from the factory is not how it's done.

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Josh...........have you heard a system that big? You might be more than satisfied with much less.............especially if you have kids. If you do decide to go big, ordering from the factory is not how it's done.

I have probably not heard a system like these listed above and do have little kids. I have done a few full car audio installs when I was younger but would have a difficult time finding the hours to do that now.

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Don't know what the intended usage will be but sometimes going too big results in a stereo that's not that well suited for 80% of actual listening usage. That stereo looks to be built to light up the entire bay which is good or bad depending on which end of the stereo you'll be on. Hope your kids aren't in the boat at the time.

You also don't list any electrical upgrades in your package. To power that beast you're going to need at a minimum 2 large batteries, an upgraded alternator for your engine, upgraded cables for the charging system/amp feeds and I would recommend an in boat multi bank battery charger (to charge the batteries after a day of blasting on the lake) if you plan to use that system to anywhere near it's potential.

I'm running a pair of Wet Sounds Rev 10s and Rev 8s, 4 JL speakers in the boat and a single 10" JL sub powered by with 2 JL amps. It sounds great but I honestly rarely have it jamming anything past an idle as it'll blow you out of the boat and being on a smaller lake the cops don't seem to enjoy it. This system is probably as far as you can take the charging system without upgrading the alternator.

I bought my boat used and it was advertised as having $5K in professionally installed stereo equipment. The installation was a mess, was built out using car stereo components (wire, fuses, terminal blocks and connectors) and only had a single battery. I basically started from scratch to rebuild the electrical out. I used the Blue Seas "add a battery" kit to replace the existing stock starting battery with 2 - Blue Tops, installed all new marine circuit breakers, terminal blocks, and marine grade cables/wires from Genuine Dealz (http://www.genuinedealz.com/). I highly recommend these guys for electrical components. If you're not comfortable making the larger cables yourself they'll custom make them for you. At any rate the point is there's a lot more that goes into installing a big stereo than buying the gear. If you're going to go big you're going to need the supporting electrical system to go with it. All but a few of the local sound shops will have a clue about marine stereo and most don't have a clue on any stereo installations. At least that's been my experience.

There's a guy that posts regularly on here and the MC site from Earmark Marine that seems to really know his stuff when it comes to high end gear. He's helped me when I posted about tuning my installation and his advise was spot on. His recommendations made a night and day improvement on how my installation performed. I'd give them a call and see what their perspective is and see what a matched package from them would cost. I'm sure if you were going to cut a check for $6K - $7K there would be a discount.

http://earmarkcaraudio.com/

Edited by Bturner
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This would likely get you:

WS-420BT or SQ with BT and under dash mount

2 pair rev-10

SD-2

2 pair xs-650

2 pair xs-808

SD-6

XS-12

Installed

Using Mikes post as a reference.....

This is as solid as you can get for marine audio at the moment and most "Marine Installers" will agree. Going to a big box car or tint shop sometimes isn't the proper choice unless they have a "marine installer". Why? Because marine audio is different than car in many ways, from material used to tuning everything for a open environment. If they do not have vast Marine application knowledge, down the road you will develop a bad taste for installers. I have witnessed this many times. Finding the right installer is about as fun as finding what mechanic is reliable when you don't know. The right installer will be there for issues and just a "I forgot how to work this" scenario. You have support and that is huge if your on the water and your stereo won't fire or you want some helpful knowledge. Buying online you loose this, if that matters to you, along with proper install techniques. I know we have some second string audio quarterbacks that think because they read it on the internet (mainly regurgitating what the audio installers said in another post) they now know everything. See this still in some posts... It takes years and years of installing and schooling (yeah we professionals do that) to know how to asses a build and pair the proper equipment for a clean and worry free experience (better chance than if you did it). If you want to do it yourself that is fine, but a professional "marine" installer can install and tune beyond any DIY guy. I am not trying to offend anyone, just giving my opinion as everyone else has.

The Sinister class D amplifier will run cleaner and use less power than most marine amplifiers. It also has a small footprint compared to its power ratings. The Rev10's are in a class of their own, they can be played at any volume with clarity and precision. They also produce more mid-bass than any other tower pod still. The 650 and 808 are designed to produce a uniform balance between the mid driver and dome tweeter, better power handling than most other cabin speakers as well. The 808's handle more power than most other 8" marine Inboats as well. As for the XS12, it is the best MARINE 12" woofer in its class of power and handling. Anything comparable is non marine. For the 420 you get seperate EQ for tower and cabin, a mic, seperate zone control for tower, sub, cabin plus a main control if you are not running a head unit or choose to not use its volume knob. All this will give you clean low output all the way up to OMG, Clean usage listening is 100%. With 2 SD's, a alternator upgrade is not a must. A extra battery paralleled to the stereo battery will allow longer cove or sandbar play time. If your not gonna sit key off blasting for hours, you may get away without a shore charger. MAY! That's if you want to skimp after such a huge purchase. I suggest a battery addition and a shore charger with any marine audio upgrade like this though. It is better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it..

Just remeber most of these guys saying do it yourself, got help from the "professionals" on these wake forums over the years. There is only a handful of reputable marine installers on the forums, so finding them may be tiresome unless you ask.

My opinion on the main topic.

Stereo delete is good if you don't want the product they offer. A factory install isn't done by a professional installer so you are getting a thrown together system not tuned And in most cases a improper sub enclosure.

Edited by Truekaotik
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True, I totally agree that there are high end installers out there who can work magic that most can't DIY. I'm thinking of the high end installs I've see out of liquidtrends, for instance. Absolutely beyond the reach of 99% of DIY installers. Usually those installers are also master woodworkers and vinyl workers, and it's the finish detail that sets them apart.

But I've also seen the garbage "pro" installs that people not lucky enough to live in liquidtrends' neighborhood can get. Unfortunately I know that these overpriced abominations seem to be the rule, not the exception, and I know that a well executed DIY install can beat those day in and day out.

As for "regurgitating," nobody MAKES you post here. I understand that this is your business and it's how you make a living, but honestly most of what you do as a marine installer is pretty darn straightforward and can be learned by someone with an interest. If you want to share your knowledge, that's great and helpful. If you just want to tell us that without a phD in electrical engineering our system is going to sound like arse, well then I think you are really not adding any value here and I question why you are posting here to begin with?

Shoot I mean share some technique too! I can turn on American Woodworker on PBS on a Saturday morning and this guy can crank out a shaker rocking chair in 28 minutes. He makes it look easy in a way that it's clear he has a lifetime of experience. Why don't you share some of that stuff here? Show us your amazing work. Inspire us!

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Back to the original question. Full factory is going to be roughly 7k. Basic factory ~$2600. So using a hybrid solution is a third option.

2600 factory

1000 Rev 10

500 sub

150 sub box

250 misc parts (less is needed)

1000 tower/sub amps

$5500 will sound better than factory, but likely not as good as full custom. Obviously as stated above you could save a bit on some of the components, but that would definitely get you going.

As for "prop shops" there are limited options here. The dealer service department does this at a couple of dealers here. I know my dealer is an official wet sounds dealer. As noted above, this is neither brain science or rocket surgery. There is ample resources to help guide you through the process, should you decide to roll your own. FMAN, IXFE, and others have recently done excellent threads documenting thier DIY systems.

I too would love to see some of the pro installs documented here. We all love pictures of cool boat items.

  • Like 2
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I'll say this, I ordered stereo delete and I purchased a full exile system equivalent to the factory set up listed and installed myself. The cost was over half off what you had listed for the factory system. And better sound.

Edit. BUT..... For MOST the factory system is perfectly good and it is ready to go the day you pick up your boat. Also, if you go aftermarket, and the installer pulls power from somewhere they shouldn't have, and something else shorts out, you run the risk of Malibu denying a warranty claim. Just food for thought

Edited by wakebrdr94
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