which wetsounds? Rev8, 10 or these?

[David]

Wetsounds is the absolute right choice in a tower HLCD speaker. Here's one reason why.

A horn flare (acoustic transformer) must MATCH the high impedance/high density of energy radiating from the tweeter TO the low impedance/ high compliance of the open air. Exactly how it does this function has everything to do with the quality of sound.

If a horn is a long parallel tube that rapidly expands at the end, just like that of a trumpet, it will have a higher cut-off point (won't effectively play into the lower treble/upper mids) and will be filled with resonant peaks. So for a horn tweeter to sound its best the horn flare must have a slow, gradual and calculated taper...exponential in this case.

The Wetsounds HLCD adheres to this science with dedicated and more fully developed horns....rather than using a cosmetic grill as an abrupt flare at the end of a more constant tube.

[triscadek]

Okay, I have made my decision. I went in to the local dealer today and they were working on a new Nautique with four Rev10s. Looked awesome. I listened to it and was impressed. They did not have any 410s for me to see mounted so I googled the 3some which is what he suggested. I personally hate the way it looks. just awkward and far from uniform. So, the four Rev 10s are whats going to be on order soon. Now, IF I go with the swivels for mounts do they detach completely where I could do a quick disconnect to take them off the boat during storage at the dock during the week etc? If so Ill buy all swivels for peace of mind from anyone looking for a 5 finger discount, otherwise Ill just buy the outer pair with swivels and try to "lock" them on somehow.

Also, for Four Rev10s, what amp would I need? The guy at the shop today said 450w is where the 10s are happy. So do I need 1800w RMS? I have to bridge them due to my wiring harness. and if someone could explain ohms to me regarding these, that would be great? Do I want 2 or 4ohms?

[MLA]

Yes, the swivel clamps do detach. Get 2 pair of the suitz-10 to cover them and they have carry handles.

For two pair of rev-10, I like the Wet Sounds SD-2. Single amp option with plenty of power for them.

Bridging is a wiring configuration thats done at the amp, not how the pods are wired up the tower. You will likely want to upgrade the tower wiring to a 12/2 for each pod. Thats a 12 gauge 2 conductor for each pod.

The speakers only come in 4 ohm, so no worries there right now.

[triscadek]

So how do they detach and curious how they get power if they are able to detach? Hopefully it's a quick detach?

Would I need to worry about how they would be wired at the amp to make it 2ohm/4ohm? The guy at the authorized dealer today said a min of 16g which is what I have. I purchased and installed a wiring harness last year that has enough to do my front and rear light bars, 2 sets of speakers bridged (which is how I have them wired now) and an all around light. All are being used. So my only option is to bridge them. I only have two positive and two negative going up for the speakers.

It was a PAIN getting wires through that tower. Never again lol.

Edited January 26, 2016 by triscadek

[David]

One configuration that would work if you are limited in the number of conductors through the tower (4 ttl.) is too series the left two speakers, series the right two speakers, run the left and right sides in parallel, and bridge an SD2 into mono. The Wetsounds SD2 is one of the few two-channel amplifiers that can cleanly bridge a fullrange signal.

Mono works well on a tower.

On an older tower and using a horizontal array, the swivel collars will allow you to fan out the exterior speakers, minimize the beaming down the center, and widen the dispersion pattern. Fanning out the speakers a bit also helps to minimize the off-axis comb filtering.

[MLA]

So how do they detach and curious how they get power if they are able to detach? Hopefully it's a quick detach?

They have a threaded locking collar that secures the pod to the tower side of the clamp. This allows for the pod to swivel as well as be removed. The speaker leads, as well as 4 smaller leads for RGB LEDS, pass through the center of the clamping system with the use a male and female connector. This design allows for all the speaker weight and load, to be shared by the clamping halves and locking collar and no load to be transferred to the speaker and LED leads. Using a traditional male and female terminal setup, gives you a lot of surface area contact as opposed to some systems that only have a small spring tab and post with only a small contact patch. These other system also share some of the speaker load when the locking bolt is secured and even more load if its only left finger tight.

Would I need to worry about how they would be wired at the amp to make it 2ohm/4ohm?

Yes, but after the final amp choice is made. For the amount of wattage traditionally fed to a Rev-10, and from an amp like the SD-2, I prefer 12ga. The speaker furthest from the amp can be as much as 25-30 feet. I dont thing I could bring myself to use 16ga.

[triscadek]

Dang it. I really don't want to re do that tower. It took us forever. To run the harness I have. Where's best for wire? Autozone/O'Reillys is always stupid expensive and sells single strands.

[MLA]

Where's best for wire? Autozone/O'Reillys is always stupid expensive and sells single strands.

Neither IMO.....ask your wet Sounds dealer what they suggest/use/sell

[Truekaotik]

So how do they detach and curious how they get power if they are able to detach? Hopefully it's a quick detach?

Would I need to worry about how they would be wired at the amp to make it 2ohm/4ohm? The guy at the authorized dealer today said a min of 16g which is what I have. I purchased and installed a wiring harness last year that has enough to do my front and rear light bars, 2 sets of speakers bridged (which is how I have them wired now) and an all around light. All are being used. So my only option is to bridge them. I only have two positive and two negative going up for the speakers.

It was a PAIN getting wires through that tower. Never again lol.

Mike answered the detach.

For the wiring, if you had 12 gauge wire ran how you explained ( 2 sets of speakers bridged) I would say your ok BUT you don't. Basically bridged is at the amplifier like mike explained ( on a 4 channel amp) but it can also mean parrallel at the speakers on a 2 channel for people not in the know. Basically you have two speaker wires ran up the tower, your jumping (or paralleling) from one speaker to the next + to +, - to -. If you can get two 12 gauge up the tower ( it is possible we have ran 4) then you can wire it the same way on the SD2 as it is now but with 12 gauge. I hope that made sense. This is if you had it pre existing, you could "skimp" it. Right now, I would have 4 sets of speaker wire ran at one time, paralleling at the amplifier giving each speaker the same breathing room

Edited January 27, 2016 by Truekaotik

[triscadek]

Well, the problem you see is that I have an insulted harness already running up there that takes up he full hole. I have a forward facing LED light bar and a rear facing LED light bar as well as an all around light and my 4 tower speakers. There is no more room to run wire. There are 8 wires total. All 3 lights share a ground, then 3 positives for each light and then my other 4 go to speakers. 2+ and 2-

[triscadek]

http://www.aerialwakeboarding.com/product-p/bt-wiringkit-20.htm

Okay so here is the wiring harness that currently runs up the tower. I have two light bars to power, one forward, one rear plus the 4 speakers. Will the eight - 16g wires be okay for what four Rev-10s will need?