2010 VLX - Wakemakers Premium Complete Reversible Pump Ballast System Installation

[NWBU]

You may already know this from talking to the guys at WM about your project but they're coming out with some new ballast bags soon that will fit the Malibu rear lockers better. I'm going to swap out my 750s for those when they're released.

[jwl019]

Made a little more progress last night. I have drilled 5 holes, and I am thinking of using the rear drain plug below the motor as the last hole since I never use that drain plug. If I change my mind, I will just drill one more hole.

First I finished connecting the lines to the thru hull in the center drain plug area and cut my lines to the correct length to where they run up to the bow bag.

[jwl019]

Next I drilled my rear bag vent holes and one hole for a thru hull near the motor back towards the transom and installed the fittings.

After looking at pics of Brett B and Fman's pics in this thread: http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/39656-2012-vlx-integrated-ballast-install/page-2 , I did not have enough room for a thru hull to be installed between my aerator pumps/depth sensor/paddle wheel. In their pics it looks like they had a lot more room between theirs. I placed the thru hull assembly down where theirs are to look and mine almost touched the aerator and sensor when just sitting between them so I moved further back where there is a lot of room.

[jwl019]

Just because, here is a pic of the boat while all the install is going on.

[jwl019]

Got the rear vent lines attached to the thru hulls and have started laying out my fill lines for the rear as well. Now is when it is getting pretty difficult due to thinking of pump placement and line runs. I am already thinking about adding a y-valve to fill a sac on the seats for each side depending on which side we are surfing, so that is what is making the current placement of the fill lines that much harder since I want to leave myself enough room to add the y-valve later.

Another issue that I am unsure on and need some help:

I will be using the Blue Sea 6 distribution block to run the power to the pumps. What kind of inline fuse do I need to run between the battery switch and this distribution block and which would you recommend? I am thinking of using a 100-125 amp inline fuse but not sure what type of fuse to use.

Something like this or the anl type?:

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Single-In-Line-Holder/dp/B006T2N2LM

[BearCreekBum]

Do you know what the full load amp rating of your new pump is?

[jwl019]

I think the pumps are 20 amps at start up and then 15 running. Each pump will have it's own fuse, but I want a main fuse to this panel that will handle up to it's rated capacity if I decide I need more accessories added later unless it is best to fuse only what I currently need and up the amps later as I add. The electrical side of the install is where I am going to have the most trouble since I am not a fan of messing with electricity!

[BearCreekBum]

I guess a better question is what size conductor are you running from the batteries to the Blue Sea.

[jwl019]

I have 15' of 8 gauge that will be running from the batteries under observers area to somewhere over near the throttle where I will mount the 6 circuit block.

[MLA]

I guess a better question is what size conductor are you running from the batteries to the Blue Sea.

I think Blue Sea puts a 125A capacity on the block total. The safe route would be to use a gauge that would handle that potential load.

[jwl019]

Got the rear pumps installed, all that is left is running all the wiring.

[jwl019]

Pics of the fill hose runs.

[jwl019]

Pics of the pumps installed.

[BearCreekBum]

I have 15' of 8 gauge that will be running from the batteries under observers area to somewhere over near the throttle where I will mount the 6 circuit block.

That seems too small a conductor for the power block and will limit any future loads. There is a good chart on the Blue Sea website and it looks like the minimum size conductor you will need is #4 AWG which will be good for 100 amps. If the pumps are really pulling 15 amps running that will be 45 amps total and #8 is only rated for 40 amps. Is there a FLA indication on the nameplate of the motor?

[jwl019]

That seems too small a conductor for the power block and will limit any future loads. There is a good chart on the Blue Sea website and it looks like the minimum size conductor you will need is #4 AWG which will be good for 100 amps. If the pumps are really pulling 15 amps running that will be 45 amps total and #8 is only rated for 40 amps. Is there a FLA indication on the nameplate of the motor?

Will take a look on the plate of the pumps and take a pic, they do have some numbers written on them that I noticed last night.

I guess I went off this post for coming up with my wire size:

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/52840-reversible-pump-wiring/ (post #10)

And a little from this post:

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/36078-wiring-for-ballast-system/

And after reading this thread, I need to change out my fuses that came with the kit from 30 amps to 20 amp fuses it looks like.

[MLA]

Id stick with the 30A fuse that was supplied. The 12ga cable is ample and the 30A fuse will handle the current spikes as the impeller flips.

[jwl019]

Pic off the pump with the specs on it.

[jwl019]

Started running some wires today. Ran the rear pump wires up towards the throttle area for now where they will attach to the switches once I decide where to put them. I had some on the plastic slip over stuff left from my truck stereo install so I used it cover the white wires in the engine area.

Edited December 25, 2015 by jwl019

[jwl019]

Ran the port side over to starboard side where it taped them together and will run them up towards the throttle area.

[jwl019]

Got the wires from the pump ran up to the throttle area.

I ran the two rear pumps that I had wrapped in the wire loom up the engine divider and up behind the carpeted panel seperating the starboard locker from the back bench seat and then up under the gunwale and zip tied them up to the existing wire run.

The bundle of wires are the excess pump wires that will go to the switch, and the 3 even length wires are the wires from the switch to the distribution box that will be located in the battery compartment behind the observers seat.

[jwl019]

Here is were I mounted the distribution box under the observers compartment. I had a 5' run of 4 awg (5' red and 5' black), thanks to MLA and BearCreekBum for helping me figure out the size I need along with the responses from the other ballast posts. I will be adding a 100 amp midi inline fuse when it arrives in a few days to the positive wire which is on the common post on my battery selector switch. My negative cable will run to the negative terminal on battery 1.

[jwl019]

Next step will be mounting the 3 bay switch bracket. I am really thinking about mounting it up in front of the throttle like Fman did on his ballast installs, but I will have to be exact in my placement so that I don't interfere with the throttle cable. The other alternative is down low in front of the fuse/safety switch area but as soon as you move forward of the safety switch the panel has a curve to it so the middle bracket of the ballast switches will not be sitting flush with the panel.

[jwl019]

One other thing that I am thinking about doing now is going ahead and splitting my rear pumps to a quick connect located in the side cup holder area so if I want to fill a bag in the cabin all I have to do is turn a bosworth valve (yet to determine where to locate it but probably just under the rear seats next to the pump). I am thinking that if I can find a female 1" to 1" thread barb, I could just place a larger washer under the panel and once the quick connect and female end are screwed together that will hold it tight and be pretty stealthy.

Edited December 30, 2015 by jwl019

[Ndawg12]

Pics of the pumps installed.

Are you filling/draining from the front of the bag?

[jwl019]

Are you filling/draining from the front of the bag?

I am, probably not the best way and the bags will not get pancake thin but I did not like the idea of the connection being on the back of the bag where I cannot easily see it. The 750's I have fit really, really tight length wise so I did not want the quick connect in a bind between the transom, and that step in the floor from the factory ballast pump at the back.

Should still work pretty good though huh? Worst case, I guess at the very end of the day I can just get in the rear lockers and pick up the rear of the bag to let it drain towards the pump. In between sets, I would think at least 90% of the bag would drain, especially if I drain the rear sacs first so the bow would probably sit lower anyway.