Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

jwl019

2010 VLX - Wakemakers Premium Complete Reversible Pump Ballast System Installation

Recommended Posts

jwl019

I have finally decided to bite the bullet and install a complete ballast system in my boat since I am tired of throwing a pump over the side to fill the rear lockers and bow bags. I ordered (x3) complete kits (http://www.wakemakers.com/wakemakers-premium-reversible-pump-ballast-system.html) from Wakemakers over Thanksgiving weekend for the install.

While waiting for them to arrive, I have been studying up on all the installs I have seen on here:

1. http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/54906-247-johnson-pump-install/page-2#entry893908

2. http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/39656-2012-vlx-integrated-ballast-install/

3. http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/58155-finally-going-reversible/page-6#entry893776

4. http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/53660-2015-22-vlx-johnson-pumpwakemakers-custom-bag-install/

Along with watching Wakemakers youtube video of drilling holes thru the hull. Even though I have seen/read all this I am still extremely nervous drilling the holes and definitely want to do it right the first time around!

Saturday, I went and got my boat from storage and parked it in my garage so I could get started. Being I have to angle the boat in so that it fits, lets just say the wife is hoping I get this thing installed fast since her car will be parked outside of the garage until the project is complete.

Sunday, I looked around the boat and decided to start up in the bow first.

First I decided to run the 1" fill hose and 3/4" vent on the starboard side. Doing it on the starboard side would keep the lines away from the amps/batteries on the port, and the vent lines for the hard bow tanks are on the starboard side anyway. I started with running the lines, and I chose to run the 1" fill line first. I removed the sub from under the console and ran the line from the bow back to the sub locaction. There is a hole already running from the cup holder area to under the console, so I just had to push the line thru and check to make sure I left enough in the bow to attach the line to the bottom of a bag up there no matter which bag and where I placed it, right now I am using a Fly High 400# bag pushed over to the surf side up there but will probably go to a sumo 600+ eventually.

post-16917-0-24070400-1450108841_thumb.j

Edited by jwl019

Share this post


Link to post
jwl019

Here is the hole running from the bow to under the console where I ran the 1" hose and 3/4" vent hose.

post-16917-0-72682600-1450109694_thumb.j

post-16917-0-47024800-1450109798_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
jwl019

Once I got the hose that far, I had to figure out where to go from there. Under the console, there is a cut out in the floor where more ballast lines/wires/cables run thru so I decided to try to squeeze the 1" line thru there and would run it to the hole already cut out along the wall accessible by the center drain plug. I tried pushing the hose thru and kept getting caught up around the 1/2 way mark. Due to the ballast lines coming with the quick connects already installed, I could not try pushing the line thru going the opposite direction so I had to come up with another solution. I used the 3/4" vent line that I had not run yet to push thru the hole in the center drain plug area and pushed it forward to up under the console. Once I got the 3/4" thru and pulled up above the floor, I slide the 1" fill line over the 3/4" vent for about 10" and pushed/pulled both lines back thru to the center drain plug hole.

post-16917-0-38361700-1450110459_thumb.j

post-16917-0-41352000-1450110466_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
jwl019

Here is the pic where I pulled both hoses out of the center drain plug area.

post-16917-0-41023500-1450110557_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
jwl019

Next, I ran the 3/4" vent line along side the fill line in the bow, it will stop under the console right by all the other thru hull fittings under there.

post-16917-0-53502400-1450110811_thumb.j

post-16917-0-67629100-1450110818_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
jwl019

While I was running lines in the bow area, I went ahead and ran my power wire for my distribution block (http://www.wakemakers.com/blue-sea-6-circuit-power-distribution-block.html). This is not in the kit, but I decided it would make the install cleaner only having one wire running to the battery instead of 3 sets of wires from all 3 kits. I plan on installing the distribution block somewhere behind the throttle area on the wall eventually.

I ran 8 gauge wire from the hole in front of the batteries over to the hole in the console area by running it behind the front ballast tank. I ordered 15' of it off Ebay and it looks to be the right length depending on where I mount the distribution block. I probably could have gone smaller, but I decided not to test it in case I ever had all 3 pumps running at once, or if I ever add anymore pumps to the distribution block, then I would be covered.

Edit: ended up using 5' of red and 5' of black 4 awg power wire (per suggestions from MLA and BearCreekBum along with what others have used in the threads linked in post #1). I ended up mounting the distribution block under the observers compartment, see pics towards the end of my install.

post-16917-0-91423000-1450111391_thumb.j

post-16917-0-67177100-1450111397_thumb.j

post-16917-0-33121100-1450111405_thumb.j

Edited by jwl019

Share this post


Link to post
jwl019

This is where I have come to a stopping point and scratching my head. Running lines was not as bad as deciding where to mount the pump or drill the thru hull for the intake.

Here is where I plan on placing the thru hull and the pump.

Do you see any issues with the placement for either? The orientation of the pump in the pic may not necessarily be how I mount it, but I am planning on mounting it in that area and it would be nice to be able to change the impeller without unmounting the pump which I could do if the pump was vertical or horizontal like in the pic.

With the pump being mounted under the console on the back wall separating the bow from the center, the only issue I see would be changing the impeller would require removing the sub each time (hopefully it is not too often).

post-16917-0-59216200-1450111995_thumb.j

post-16917-0-22193900-1450112006_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
jwl019

I have not really started on the rear pumps yet, but I have been contemplating on where to drill the holes for the thru hulls.

I really do not have much room near the Vdrive since I already have the stock aerator pumps, paddlewheel, and depth gauge there to install and be able to use the shut off valves.

So I might have to move further back towards the transom? If anyone has pics of this hull that mounted 2 additional thru hulls there can you please show me where you placed them?

post-16917-0-50750800-1450112200_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
jwl019

Here is where I am thinking of placing the thru hulls.

Do you see any issues with both holes being this far back?

If I mount them back here, I will probably have to use a 90 degree fitting either straight from the thru hull or after the shut off valve (like in pic) so that the hoses can run up to where ever I mount the pumps at (have not gotten that far just yet).

I would like to mount them both on the port side if possible since it seems like they would be out of the way the most on this side.

post-16917-0-04716000-1450112580_thumb.j

post-16917-0-74568100-1450112589_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
NWBU

I'm going to install 2 reversibles over the winter too, so thanks for sharing your project. Since I don't have a SG boat and tend to spend more time on the regular side surfing, I'm only going to install 2 pumps for the rear sacs, and then use a diverter valve on the starboard side to run a line to the bow sac.

My thought is I can start filling the port sac and bow sac after I launch, and then switch the diverter valve to fill the starboard sac from the same pump while the port sac empties when switching to goofy side surfing. Curious if you thought about that or decided against it for any reason that I should think of too?

Share this post


Link to post
windy1

So your making additional holes for pumps for the rear and not just piggybacking from your existing pumps or replacing existing pumps with reversible using existing holes?

when I installed a reversible for the bow sack I had big plans for mounting everything nice and pretty but ended up just laying the pump on the floor under a bow cushion flat not mounted to anything. works fine. I use a hose for the bow sack and a hose extension for an additional center sack when the crew is light. when done I tuck it under the gunnel out of sight. I am going to try a valve next year so I can hook up both sacks at the same time and not have to switch a hose from a full sack. in other words leave hoses connected to both from fill time to drain time then disconnect and tuck it away for travel.

isn't your boat for sale.

Share this post


Link to post
jwl019

I'm going to install 2 reversibles over the winter too, so thanks for sharing your project. Since I don't have a SG boat and tend to spend more time on the regular side surfing, I'm only going to install 2 pumps for the rear sacs, and then use a diverter valve on the starboard side to run a line to the bow sac.

My thought is I can start filling the port sac and bow sac after I launch, and then switch the diverter valve to fill the starboard sac from the same pump while the port sac empties when switching to goofy side surfing. Curious if you thought about that or decided against it for any reason that I should think of too?

I actually did think about that, but my crew is pretty mixed regular/goofy, so I figured I would go ahead and run one pump for each. Another reason is that I am thinking about branching off those lines with a y valve for any sacs I may want in the cabin. My thought would be have a y valve off the port side going to the starboard and vice versa for the other. If surfing regular, the port rear would be filling the sac in the rear hatch and I could use the starboard pump to fill a bag on the seat since that pump would not be doing anything, the only time I would actually have to wait would be for swapping sides.

Share this post


Link to post
jwl019

So your making additional holes for pumps for the rear and not just piggybacking from your existing pumps or replacing existing pumps with reversible using existing holes?

when I installed a reversible for the bow sack I had big plans for mounting everything nice and pretty but ended up just laying the pump on the floor under a bow cushion flat not mounted to anything. works fine. I use a hose for the bow sack and a hose extension for an additional center sack when the crew is light. when done I tuck it under the gunnel out of sight. I am going to try a valve next year so I can hook up both sacks at the same time and not have to switch a hose from a full sack. in other words leave hoses connected to both from fill time to drain time then disconnect and tuck it away for travel.

isn't your boat for sale.

Correct, I am making additional holes for more pumps in the rear. I thought about the piggybacking but have read more threads on here that people usually end up pulling their piggyback system and installing reversibles so I am just going that route.

You are correct on that it is for sale, but if it doesn't sell then it really is not going to hurt my feelings. I actually have a great trade-in off on a '15 leftover and have been considering it for the past couple weeks as well, have until the 16th to decide and may just do it when I get to the point of drilling the holes in my install lol! I actually really like this boat, and the listed wave is pretty good so I figured I would go ahead and install the system right since my only complaint was the time it took throwing the pump over the side to fill the added bags I needed to make that wake.

After reading a few of the reviews on the 16's, I am actually thinking of waiting until this time next year to purchase a new Bu. The 400hp motor and better warranty is really making me consider waiting.

Share this post


Link to post
Love2Ride

Do a search for 2012 Integrated Ballast Install on the website here. Brett came up with a KILLER system for additional pumps/bags.

Share this post


Link to post
NWBU

Brett has a nice setup but I really want to minimize fill and transfer time as much as possible so I decided on separate 1" thru hulls rather than using the T handle and Y off of that. I'm hoping to be able to flip the switches when a rider is done on one side and be able to surf the other side by the time that person is picked up and the next rider is ready.

I'll also run another diverter valve off the port pump to feed another cabin sac, so both pumps will be multi-purpose.

Edited by NWBU

Share this post


Link to post
soonerbilly

^^^^^^that's what I did. Works great.

Share this post


Link to post
jwl019

I don't get as much done on the week nights, but I did manage to mount my bow pump, ran the vent lines and will be cross venting, along with taping up the vent line thru hull areas where I plan to drill.

Should I install the rear vent lines in front of all the factory ones or can I go behind them towards the transom (easier to access)? Since I am cross venting them, I do not think I will be getting any passive draining out of them.

Edit: Last night I flipped the pump around 180 degrees so that the motor is now above the impeller.

post-16917-0-98500500-1450207678_thumb.j

Edited by jwl019

Share this post


Link to post
jwl019

Rear vent lines run, I had to undo the hose covers in the lockers so that I had enough room for both vent lines to run thru since I am planning to cross vent the bags.

I also plan on using a zip tie screwed to the metal support bracket in front of the pop up pylon to create a high point in the lines.

post-16917-0-21803400-1450207715_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
soonerbilly

I thought I had read that you were supposed to mount the pumps hose connections down to minimize leaking into the motor /damage? Or is that just for the older pumps?

Share this post


Link to post
jwl019

I thought I had read that you were supposed to mount the pumps hose connections down to minimize leaking into the motor /damage? Or is that just for the older pumps?

The instructions said it could be mounted in any position without loss of efficiency, just looking at the pic though, I will probably straighten it out a little bit. The pump is pretty heavy to hold with one hand while laying on your side to install it. Being in the orientation it is in, it will make the hose run a lot easier than trying to turn 90 degrees going in and out of the pump.

Share this post


Link to post
minnmarker

I thought I had read that you were supposed to mount the pumps hose connections down to minimize leaking into the motor /damage? Or is that just for the older pumps?

:plus1: You are still supposed to mount them with the motor above or beside the impeller, not below it. A good place to put the pumps is under the rear port seat. Plenty of room there - at least that I don't use for anything else. From there the tubing goes easy into bilge by V drive and to front and back lockers.

Share this post


Link to post
MLA
The instructions said it could be mounted in any position without loss of efficiency,

This is true regarding pump operation. What needs to be considered, is when the pump head is up and motor down, you stand a chance for water to leak down the drive shaft into the motor. Over time, this will rust and corrode them.

Share this post


Link to post
jwl019

Last night I straitened the pump up under the console, tied my cross vented lines up to the metal support bracket that runs across (ski pylon is on it), and used the magnets to help locate the hole I wanted to drill in the center bilge area.

I was just about to drill and assembled the ball valve and thru hull so I could make sure I would have enough room to assemble it and use the shut off valve when I noticed that the ball valve does not screw on very far to the thru hull. It went on easy for a little bit, then got to the point where I could not turn it anymore even with a wrench and crescent wrench. The ball valve still had about 1/2" more room inside that it could screw down more, I could see/feel the gap when looking at them assembled. At that point I decided to call it a night after marking where I would drill a hole later after calling Wakemakers today to make sure that is how it is supposed to be.

I contacted Wakemakers this morning and they said the thru hull is tapered so really you can only screw it on so far before it will not go any further, just looking at it with the naked eye, I could not see it. So, I guess tonight I will drill my 1st set of holes and get the bow pump finished up.

post-16917-0-84086600-1450303833_thumb.j

post-16917-0-57817200-1450303839_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
jwl019

Got the holes drilled, wasn't as bad as I thought it would be! Make sure before you drill your hole that you have enough room for a crescent wrench or socket to tighten the nut, got lucky and just barely had enough room for the crescent to tighten in the center drain plug area.

post-16917-0-65857600-1450323470_thumb.j

post-16917-0-41977200-1450323485_thumb.j

post-16917-0-88906700-1450323499_thumb.j

post-16917-0-91131500-1450323514_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
BearCreekBum

I'm glad you will be an expert when you do mine next year.

Share this post


Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...