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Design my truck stereo.


tn_rider

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It's a sealed box the mesh grille is where the sub is. The Bluetooth works great! Can control it from the phone or head unit. The stock steering controls work as well. The thing I love most is you can have navigation on and hit a button and have half the screen on Navi and the other half on music. When you come up to an exit you need to get off on or turn the navi takes over the whole screen, reads you the message then goes back to half and half or full music screen depending on what you had it set to.

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Kind of off topic buy kind of on since it is for my truck (or SUV, semantics).

When you use a 4 channel amp to run the fronts and a sub, do you need a special amp to bridge the rears and keep the fronts separate? I'm seeing a lot of subs with a 2 and 4 channel switch, but this would be 3 channel? Am I miss understanding something?

thanks

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Falko,

The amplifier 2 & 4-channel input switch allows you to either run all four channels off a single pair of RCAs or run two pair of RCAs so that you can maintain fade. Fade could be used as a sub level control in your case. With either option the amplifier's separate F & R gain levels will be functional.

You would run the amplifier in the 3-channel mode by simply bridging the rear two channels into a single sub channel at the speaker output terminals. This does not require that you sum to true mono for a lowpass subwoofer, although a few select amplifiers may also offer the stereo/mono input configuration feature. If so, you would select 'mono' on the rear sub channels only.

Basically when bridging you are using the positive of one channel and the negative (which is also a positive with an inverted polarity) of another channel in a push/pull manner....which serves to double the power of a single channel. You would than avoid a 2-ohm woofer and run a 4-ohm model.

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Thank you. Just to clarify, I am looking at a head unit with separate pre-amp for bass. I would connect those to the input for the "rear" on the amp, bridge the amp rear outputs to drive the sub. The front pre-amp outputs would go to the fronts on the amp which would stay unbridged and feed the front speakers. The rear speaker wires driven by the HU amp would feed the rear seat speakers, will be much softer, but something for anyone that sits back there. That should maintain my fad control for the 4 speakers, and I should be able to adjust the sub through the HU since it has a separate sub output.

Again, thanks for the help.

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tn_

It depends.

If you have an existing 12" and you add a 10" with the equal and extra power to drive it, you will see a good bump in output, not as much as having dual 12s, but still significant.

I would only do this if both enclosures are sealed, not ported, the enclosures are totally separate for both subs, and there is space for both woofers to have the correct enclosure size.

If there is any compromise in the enclosure size, the enclosure construction quality, or powering each woofer to its potential, then I would stick with a single woofer and improve the quality wherever I can.

Many off-the-shelf under-the-seat sub enclosures for trucks do not actually have the net displacement that is represented. Many use very thin materials beyond the baffle side and many have shabby construction once you peel the carpet away.

So it depends on whether you are getting quality first before you add quantity.

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I have the type R shallow 12 in a properly made enclosure. It sounds great! I just want a little more. I want to see if I have the airspace left to see about doing a type R shallow 10 next to it. I think I MIGHT have space left for a shallow 10. Of course properly powered. I just didn't know if it would hurt my sound quality or have phasing issues.

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Many things to be concerned about....but in this case, phasing issues should not be one of them, if, both enclosures are sealed, both subs are crossed over at the same LP frequency, and in such a small cabin space with both subs under rear seats. So you should net pretty much the sum of the two subs without complication, and with the 12" being a little dominant.

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To add another, you should stick with a matching 12. In that case the amps would have to move somewhere else. There's barely room for the 2 by themselves. We could always port the cab :D

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