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How is your system wired?


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Hey guys...trying to sort how I want to wire my system to power. Based on research, I have found 1 of 2 options would be best.

I have an XS Power XP3000 (group 31) that I used on my previous boat which did a great job. It's rated for 240 minutes at 3000 which is marginally enough (I like to listen while on the dock when not on the boat).

1- leave amp wired to common post of battery switch and wire my group 31 battery to the #2 slot in place of the group 24 that comes stock

2- wire amp to battery direct and leave stock battery setup on the switch

I see pros and cons to each thus, wanted to ask everyone's opinion. Ultimately, I will buy another and run a bank (in parallel) to increase playing time inbetween charges...

Edited by NCSurfing
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1) The dual circuit plus switch is a 4 post switch and does not have a common output post

2) This leaves the battery as a stand alone, totally independent from any input from the alternator.

1 - not sure I follow...my switch looks like the attached pic

2 - all clear on this...I have an onboard charger that I can hookup at the end of each day. Although a question...per scenario 1 if the amp is hooked to the common post and I am running on battery 1 (cranking) whereas stereo is on battery 2 (agm), will battery still charge?


Edited by NCSurfing
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Hard to tell with the cover on the back, but its my understanding that on the 2015s, Bu used only the dual circuit plus switch, but you never know, they may have still been offering both dual bank types.

The problem with having no contribution from the engine is that your 240 minutes is total for the day, rather then your engine off play time. This also means the battery will experience deep and frequent cycles. It wont last

IF a boat has a traditional 3 post 1/2/BOTH/OFF and its wired in the most ideal manor, then ALL loads will draw from which ever battery the switch is turned to. If there are loads that are wired battery direct, then you have potential for issues.

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