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How to setup the WS420SQ?


Chatty21VLX

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Through my searching of ways to replace my tower speakers, I came across the WS420SQ. It seems like an awesome addition, especially with the PA mic and the ability to independently control the volumes.

Right now, my system is setup with the sub on its own amp, 2 tower speakers on their own amp, and 4 in boat speakers run off the speaker outs on the head unit.

I would like to move the in boats to an amp, so I have been looking at a 4+1 so I can replace the sub amp at the same time (the current sub amp is pretty low end).

My question is, how would I hook up the WS420 with 4 in boat channels, 2 tower channels, and a sub channel? From the pics, it looks like the WS420 only has 6 output channels.

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6 outputs, or in other words, 3 stereo pairs, is all thats need for 3 zone: in-boat, tower and sub. One pair to sub amp inputs, 1 pair to in-boats input and 3rd pair to tower amp.

With a quality 5 or 6 amp to run the in-boats and sub, you should only need a single pair to run the in-boats and a single pair for the sub. If you can tell us specifically what sub you have and what type of enclosure its in, we can offer some solid 5 or 6 chnl options.

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How do I only need a single pair to run the in boats? 4 speakers = 4 channels, correct? A 4 channel amp requires to sets of RCA cables, one for front and one for back (or left/right however it's labeled), correct?

The sub is an Orion 15" in a down firing vented box. Not sure of the model # since it was already installed when I bought the boat. I'm open to getting a new sub/box combo too because that 15 takes up a ton of room.

Another question: The WS420 has a single input. If my head unit has 3 pre-amp outs, I should use a full range set (labeled front)?

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How do I only need a single pair to run the in boats? 4 speakers = 4 channels, correct? A 4 channel amp requires to sets of RCA cables, one for front and one for back (or left/right however it's labeled), correct?

Cheap amps do, not quality higher end amps. They only require a single stereo pair for discrete stereo mode.

The sub is an Orion 15" in a down firing vented box. Not sure of the model # since it was already installed when I bought the boat

With a ported enclosure, you would be better served with an amp thats got an adjustable subsonic filter. Not may 5 chnl hybrids or 6 chnl out there that offer that. Going to a sealed enclosure makes it easier. Changing both woofer and enclosure makes it a cake walk

Another question: The WS420 has a single input. If my head unit has 3 pre-amp outs, I should use a full range set (labeled front)?

You absolutely want a full range output to the EQ.

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Kicker, JL, Rockford all make a solid marine 5 chnl. Arc Audio makes a couple of nice 5 chnl Class-D amp, but they are not marine. I have no issue using non-marine amps in the right application. Wet Sounds and JL offer top shelf 6 chnl marine amps. Again, Arc Audio offers a 6 chnl but its not marine. Price is going to range from the $400 range to over $1200 as well as varying levels of output on both the full range and sub chnls.

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Cheap amps do, not quality higher end amps. They only require a single stereo pair for discrete stereo

Can you please explain this to me? I haven't done any aftermarket stereo stuff in 15 years, so I guess i'm not understanding what it means or how to do it.

The amps I have looked at are $500+ jl and rockford, and they have 3 pairs of inputs on the 5 channel versions.

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It would be expected that a 5 chnl amp would have front, rear and sub inputs, but the difference between a thought out quality amp and price-point amp, is the ability to internally pass the signal on to all chnls using only a single left & right inputs. Or, you can set them up with the ability to fade between front a rear, but not with an EQ. You can also set them up to have the sub drive at head-unit volume or tie it to either the front or rear speakers when using fade. Again, not with the EQ as it provides the sub control. Its all in the complexity of the amp's front end. So in your configuration and using an EQ and the right amp, you would not need splitters or Y cables at the amp.

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I don't really care about fading front/rear or balancing left/right. I just want to be able to independently control the volume of the tower speakers and the in boats.

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I don't really care about fading front/rear or balancing left/right. I just want to be able to independently control the volume of the tower speakers and the in boats.

You can do what you want with the Clarion EQ for $50. The WS420 has some nice features, but you pay for it. You can do a single set of RCA's from your head unit into the EQ, and it will give you 2 sets of full range RCA out (labeled Front/Rear) that are on a fader to control volume, and 1 subwoofer out (90hz LPF). Put the "Front" RCA to your Tower amp, and the "Rear" to your in boat amp. Then you just use the fader to either turn the tower or inboat speakers down, and theirs a knob for the sub volume too.

The main thing the WS420 has over the Clarion, is dual zone EQ (though not as many bands to fine tune)... you can turn down the highs on the tower if they are too bright, without affecting the in-boat highs. And then you got the mic also so you can yell at people.

With this setup, you still have left right balance option from head unit. (I've never had a situation where I didn't want this centered). To fade front/rear on the in-boats, you can just bump the gain down on the amp for the channels that are too loud, like for dash mounted speakers for example. Not easy to do on the fly, but not really something you should need to adjust often anyway.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Would a wet sounds ht-6 be good for 2 tower speakers (either rev 8's or the exile/Samson 8's) and a sub? I'm not totally opposed to using a y splitter for a 4 channel to power the in boats.

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