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Another sub story


Bill_AirJunky

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Rebuilding the sub box under the drivers side dash after the heater failed this summer & damaged it. I have the box & faceplate built out of marine plywood. I put the heater vent & snorkel in the faceplate. Need to coat it to be waterproofed & looking into what others have done. Sounds like I need to route & sand all the corners round, caulk the seams inside, & coat it with resin or bedliner. I'm looking for suggestions on what caulk & bedliner to use. Can I get it waterproofed well without using resin & only using bedliner?

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Edited by Bill_AirJunky
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If you do something like linex I'm sure it's sufficient but the diy stuff is questionable. Rattlecan bed liner is definitely not up to the task. Resin is easy and it dries pretty quick. I usually throw a little glass in with it (why not, right?) too but that's probably overkill.

  • Like 2
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Hey keep me posted, as I'll be watching closely. Going to move my Sub into the helm this winter as well !

Post Lots of pics for me to reference. Nice job on the new enclosure, like the way you incorporated

the heater vent into the bottom.... has me thinking.... :) by the way what's the " Snorkel" ?

What are you going to cover the face of the enclosure with, carpet or a black crinkle paint

and how are you going to fasten it in place?

On a side note, loved the SMT65's so much going to get another set of cans. Thinking of the SMT9Q's!

Edited by Dare2goBare
  • Like 1
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Snorkel is Heatercrafts hot tube. As much as I dislike having the heater core under the dash, it worked fine for 10 years. I suspect it'll work for that long again. I'm just not interested in relocating water lines, etc.

I'll probably cover it with carpet unless I find something I like better. The shape of the faceplate is what holds it snug in place. I'll get some more pics as I go & you'll see the base footprint.

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I didn't think the spray bedliner would work. I bought a quart of the roll on stuff and put three coats on. Been in the boat for four years and so far so good. Resin would certain do the trick as well.

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^^ We need some pics of that box! I had one in college I built....man I miss that system. Having buddies hitting your shoulder signalling you to turn it down from the back seat because they can't breathe when the subs hit. :lol:

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Bill I built my box last season and had it Line-Xd and I think it should be fine for waterproofing purposes. I've only had one seaons on my box but it seems to be fine. Mine is a ported 4^3 cf box supporting a 80lb 15" xxx so I think you'd be fine just doing line-x/rhino line running your kicker.

Edited by rjones
  • Like 1
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^^ We need some pics of that box! I had one in college I built....man I miss that system. Having buddies hitting your shoulder signalling you to turn it down from the back seat because they can't breathe when the subs hit. :lol:

EAC2AF18-5075-4FD2-BB80-1589B8F90005_zps49A61FF0-0535-4018-92F0-08A4F264C379_zps1AA2FE01-BD9D-471E-8F19-8F873366707C_zps

  • Like 3
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Routed all the corners, hit it with the belt sander, and put a coat of epoxy resin on it. I'll get another coat of resin on it tomorrow. Haven't decided what I'm going to do on the face yet. Would be cool to do something original... Vinyl? Gator Grip? Carbon fiber?

Edited by Bill_AirJunky
  • Like 2
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Routed all the corners, hit it with the belt sander, and put a coat of epoxy resin on it. I'll get another coat of resin on it tomorrow. Haven't decided what I'm going to do on the face yet. Would be cool to do something original... Vinyl? Gator Grip? Carbon fiber?

Any thoughts on LED back lighting? Something I'm considering if I can incorporate with my 12" RF Sub.

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Bill, are you keeping that grill? It looks sharp....or it doesn't look sharp....not sure which I mean, but you know what I mean :biggrin:

Something like this might look a little more up to date

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kicker-12GR120-12-Inch-Round-Subwoofer-Grill-For-Standard-Kicker-Subs-/141723662218?hash=item20ff63778a:g:~EQAAOSwMmBVrWtL

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I hadn't really thought about changing the grill. And I've already made the cuts on the faceplate to fit it. It does have some corners on it, but their sort of tapered inward so I haven't had a problem with them.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey Bill.....

how is the project coming along? ... would like to see more pics.

This is as far as I've gotten. Kick Panel & Console out.... finding all the screws was a real treat,

but I placed the ski locker sub box under the helm. Lots of room, so I'm looking

forward to the new Sub Kick Panel build.

post-20239-0-64632600-1448315992_thumb.j

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I like it D2B! And it looks like you have room on the left for a faceplate that can hold your heater vent & hot tube!

I haven't touched mine since I got the resin on it. I talked to a buddy about putting some CF on the faceplate & spraying it with resin. I guess thats how you get it to turn out glossy & smooth. I haven't decided if I'll do this or just carpet the front again.

I've been in & out of Falko's thread about his new Chevy Avalanche, which has made me think maybe I should be building a new sub for my own Avalanche.... now that I have all this experience building subs.

  • Like 1
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Yes the left side is where I plan to put the heater vent. I only have the two vent heater

and the hot tube is in the side walkway where I'll leave it. Thoughts on putting in a three vent heater, but

thinking on this winters budget, I'm going to put the other set of cans on the tower first.

I'm leaning towards carpeting the faceplate, but yet TBD. Thing are on a slow down with

the on slot of Christmas so I'll get into it after the holidays.

  • Like 1
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Yea, my hot tube is in the aisle too. I hate it there because it ends up under a pile of gear or coolers. So I think it'll be more accessible by the driver's feet.

Enjoy the Christmas hunt! I think I'll do it via Amazon again.

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