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Nitrousbird

How long would you keep her?

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Nitrousbird

2002 Avalanche; 167k on the clock, bought her 10 years ago.

Not my daily. Used for:

- Snowy days

- Hauling stuff (Lowes runs and the like)

- Long trips (typically three 7 hour one-way trips a year not towing, another 7 hour one-way towing the boat, with some years having one other long trip in her, non-towing)

- Towing to the ramp, 3 minute tow

I just got back from Norris where she was a real POS. Exhaust weld broke; so a loud, loud drive. Two patch fixes didn't hold. Then the fuel filter I replaced maybe 20k ago decided to get a hairline crack in it, but the fuel lines were so jacked up I couldn't get it off with my limited tool selection...so for the first time since getting this truck I let a shop work on it and were able to swap out the filter but the fuel lines are shot.

I already ordered stainless long tubes/y-pipe and a fuel line kit for her this morning. I've already replaced the entire braking system (minus ABS unit and master cylinder reservoir). I've also replaced the fuel pump (80k miles), both front wheel hubs, alternator and some other minor stuff. Original, untouched motor, tranny, front/rear ends.

I'm fixing it to make sure she will be good for at least another 6 months. She isn't all that pretty anymore (rusty rear fenders), tear in the driver seat that can't be repaired (North Face Edition, can't get replacement skins, so I'm running seat covers). Otherwise she is a great highway cruiser.

My original plan was to upgrade in the spring/summer 2017. Think it is worth nursing her another 18 months? The fixes I'm doing now have to be done to be able to sell her without taking a severe bath. My fear is the tranny taking a crap on me, though it has never shown signs of giving up.

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MadMan

My goal is always 200k miles, so I say keep going. Don't get caught in the trap of thinking a couple things broke now so that means something else is going to break (car dealers love this type of thinking).

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Slayer

If it was me, I'd broom it, but only if it were a dd. If you can dump a few bucks in and eliminate some problems, then it's worth another 40k miles. What do you want, anyway? Another avalanche?

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robbennett

While those problems are very annoying they are minor. They happened at a really bad time too. You could go out and buy a brand new truck and have problems with it so I would say keep it a while longer. I have been pretty annoyed with my new truck because it is under warranty and it seems like the dealership just doesn't want to fix any of my problems because the warranty work doesn't pay as much.

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oldjeep

Sounds like you already spent the money to fix the problems, so I'd just keep it until you get to the point where it costs more than it is worth. I'm at 124K on my DD truck and much prefer the occasional repair to the $400 truck payment.

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Bozboat

I follow the three strike rule. If it lets me down 2x then I'm looking, after 3 strikes I drop it off for good.

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oldjeep

On the rusty rear fenders, might be time for some bushwhacker cutouts - assuming you don't have the cladding and the rust hasn't extended past where they cut/cover.

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Nitrousbird

On the rusty rear fenders, might be time for some bushwhacker cutouts - assuming you don't have the cladding and the rust hasn't extended past where they cut/cover.

It's a 2002; they are the weird year for the '02 - '06 Avalanche. WBH cladding delete option wasn't available in 2002. Cladding is also a different color in the '02, different interior (some things are worse, some are better), plus some other minor differences.

I do agree on the whole truck payment thing. Bought my DD (BMW 335i) cash this year, so would like to fully replenish that before buying another truck.

What do you want, anyway? Another avalanche?

The three trucks I would "reasonably" want:

- '07-08 Escalade EXT

- '09 6.0L Avalanche (it's a unicorn, sadly)

- '11 quad cab Raptor (way more than I want to spend)

That said, everything I'm listing is 25-35k, which as my frugal wife pointed out, is hard to justify for something I'm not daily driving and isn't a sports/muscle car.

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Bill_AirJunky

Sure is nice not having a truck payment. :dontknow:

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Slayer

It's a 2002; they are the weird year for the '02 - '06 Avalanche. WBH cladding delete option wasn't available in 2002. Cladding is also a different color in the '02, different interior (some things are worse, some are better), plus some other minor differences.

I do agree on the whole truck payment thing. Bought my DD (BMW 335i) cash this year, so would like to fully replenish that before buying another truck.

The three trucks I would "reasonably" want:

- '07-08 Escalade EXT

- '09 6.0L Avalanche (it's a unicorn, sadly)

- '11 quad cab Raptor (way more than I want to spend)

That said, everything I'm listing is 25-35k, which as my frugal wife pointed out, is hard to justify for something I'm not daily driving and isn't a sports/muscle car.

I only ask because I know someone with an avalanche for sale with 73,000 miles for $14,200. It's not a 6.0L, however.

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Nitrousbird

I only ask because I know someone with an avalanche for sale with 73,000 miles for $14,200. It's not a 6.0L, however.

That's a good price assuming '07+ and not a base model. Any info on it?

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edwin

If it was my world - "she gone!"

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coldwater-echelon

I would keep it for a while longer. I have a '07 Avalanche and love it, great people mover and tow vehicle. My only regret is that I did not get the 6.0 L motor for more pulling power. I have 77K miles on it now and will keep it until it dies, unless I find a great deal on a newer one.

Not having a car or boat payment is great! The paid off nation is the way to go.

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That Guy

Damn! Love that blue!!!

As far as the OP, I'm not sure the cost of repairs but no payments are nice. I bought my truck new last year and plan to keep it 10+ years, it doesn't get driven daily so that helps keep the miles off of it but the payment still stings. I'm in it for the long run, so I think you should hang onto yours as well.

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Nitrousbird

As far as the OP, I'm not sure the cost of repairs but no payments are nice.

$173 shipped for all new OEM lines. Stainless long tube headers with Y pipe was $280 shipped. So under $500 in repairs and will probably gain 10 hp to the wheels in the process.

As long as the manifold bolts don't give me too much hassle (soaking in PB Blaster until much better stuff arrives from Amazon) and if the headers don't fight me going in, it should be a pretty straight forward repair.

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Pnwrider

Since you listed it, I'm gonna go ahead and vote for the raptor.

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Falko

Stick with what you got 'til you're scared to drive it.

Saying that, I found this awesome deal on a slightly used SS....

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Levi900RR

I think whatever you decide to do you've gotten your moneys worth out of that thing. Nice work.

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mainekneeboarder

$173 shipped for all new OEM lines. Stainless long tube headers with Y pipe was $280 shipped. So under $500 in repairs and will probably gain 10 hp to the wheels in the process.

As long as the manifold bolts don't give me too much hassle (soaking in PB Blaster until much better stuff arrives from Amazon) and if the headers don't fight me going in, it should be a pretty straight forward repair.

I don't think there is an 02 GM truck up here in Maine with the stock manifold bolts left in it. Almost every truck has atleast a couple break while driving, and a few more break when trying to fix the leak the broken ones caused! I used to use PB Blaster alot until I tried Castle "Thrust", very good penetrating oil and worth a try if you can find it down you way. Broken manifold bolts are something we deal with often up here, if they give you too much hassle I can give a few options to try if needed.

All my stuff is old high millage stuff, so you know my answer to the Keep or sell question.

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Nitrousbird

I don't think there is an 02 GM truck up here in Maine with the stock manifold bolts left in it. Almost every truck has atleast a couple break while driving, and a few more break when trying to fix the leak the broken ones caused! I used to use PB Blaster alot until I tried Castle "Thrust", very good penetrating oil and worth a try if you can find it down you way. Broken manifold bolts are something we deal with often up here, if they give you too much hassle I can give a few options to try if needed.

All of my bolts are intact and the heads look good (but rusty). I have a can of Kano Kroil being shipped, which is supposed to be some of the best stuff out there. The bolts will get a nice soak in that before I ever put a ratchet to them. I am doing my best to not snap a bolt into a head, as extracting them will just suck.

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mainekneeboarder

If they look good maybe you get lucky, hopefully. I actually just did one today that looked ok but two broke one came out, so I cut the rest. Lots of times if they are too rusty we just cut the bolt heads off to get the manifold off them and some of the rust from the manifold holding them in. Then its just the bolt stuck in the head holding it and with a few tricks its some times easier then fighting with them when they are rusty and stuck in the manifold also, Lots of times with an aluminum head they spin rite out this way as its usually the rusty manifold they are stuck in. Plus it sometimes saves them from breaking off flush to the head if they are stuck in the head a little. We very rarely drill any out anymore.

I have heard of that penetrate but haven't tried it.

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JoeA

Sounds like you already spent the money to fix the problems, so I'd just keep it until you get to the point where it costs more than it is worth. I'm at 124K on my DD truck and much prefer the occasional repair to the $400 truck payment.

What does "DD" mean? Sorry...maybe I'm getting old.

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oldjeep

What does "DD" mean? Sorry...maybe I'm getting old.

Daily driver

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