Oil change at the end of season or beginning

[1HELLUVALIFE]

what brand oil is everybody running? just plain ol rotella or synthetic?

[MadMan]

what brand oil is everybody running? just plain ol rotella or synthetic?

Neither, I use "Store Brand" 40wt.

[twitchee2]

Rotella t-6 synthetic, same stuff as my duramax.

[Slayer]

After reading numerous threads here on this oil and that oil, I settled on good ol' rotella-T dino oil.

[oldjeep]

Pennzoil 15w40 marine like it says in the manual;)

Edited October 14, 2015 by oldjeep

[Fman]

This whole thread is about overkill and its various degrees.

For some strange reason I find it interesting and educational. It's good to know stuff for us diy guys.

[twitchee2]

Honestly, the fact that is thread has become what it is, just shows how much we care about our boats. No matter when you change your oil or if you fill the filter before putting it on, it will allow us to have the best opportunity to have hours, days and years of trouble free fun on the water. Let be honest, we are probably some of the hardest users of these boat. If you take care of your toys, they will take care of you!

Edited October 14, 2015 by twitchee2

[catalac]

Nothing on a motorsports forum brings more entertainment than an oil thread.

[Sixball]

The one thing I will say is I can't think of any oil related failures from any good oil that meets our standers. If you run a quality oil I think you are safe! I have looked at many many blown engines, some that looked very much like oil issues but after digging deep we always found other problems.

[shawndoggy]

vs

And to further complicate things... if you run PCM, you get a ford oil filter on your chevy engine!

[Lance B. Johnson]

LBJ, next time you start your boat, watch how quick your pressure builds. Then, next time you change your oil watch the oil pressure when you start it. It will be significantly slower and may take even 10 seconds, especially with remote oil filters. Then compare that with how quickly pressure builds after a layoff, which is almost as instantaneous as in season starts. The biggest "delay-causing" condition comes post oil change.

All my point is, is why start your engine dry after it hasn't run for months if you can avoid it? And furthermore, if people are going to subscribe to the acid theory of why oil should be changed prior to layup, why not circulate it? Why just put fresh oil in the pan and not get it worked up in the areas that matter?

85, I have done way way more oil changes then I care to even admit. Boats, cars, tractors, heavy equipment, my boat, other peoples boats. If there is a difference it could be measured in 1-2 seconds. It has never been 10 second or I would have been nervous about something gone wrong. I watch the OP gauge every time to make sure and every time it shoots right up to normal (IF you fill the filter like we are saying) Ten seconds is an awful long time and in my mind, given all the oil changes I have done, I can only consider it strang on your part to say such a thing. Ten seconds means theres a problem.

It makes no difference, you either have to start the boat right away, or in the spring. So even if you were right about a ten second delay, it would have to happen one way or another.

And 85, during winter lay up, the oil WILL work its way back to the sump regardless if you start it up after the oil change or not. In either case you are not starting it DRY as you have put it. There will always be residual oil on the bearings (even if the boat sat 5 years!). I know that after years of engine work. I can promise you, that you are no better off starting it before winter lay up or after.

Ok we will just be arguing in circles from here on out. Let me just finish by saying that I started turning wrenches on cars at 14 and rebuilt my first automatic transmission at 16. I have 24 years as a paid technician/ and automotive teacher. One would think I know something on the matter?

[Lance B. Johnson]

LBJ, next time you start your boat, watch how quick your pressure builds. Then, next time you change your oil watch the oil pressure when you start it. It will be significantly slower and may take even 10 seconds, especially with remote oil filters. Then compare that with how quickly pressure builds after a layoff, which is almost as instantaneous as in season starts. The biggest "delay-causing" condition comes post oil change.

All my point is, is why start your engine dry after it hasn't run for months if you can avoid it? And furthermore, if people are going to subscribe to the acid theory of why oil should be changed prior to layup, why not circulate it? Why just put fresh oil in the pan and not get it worked up in the areas that matter?

85, I have done way way more oil changes then I care to even admit. Boats, cars, tractors, heavy equipment, my boat, other peoples boats. If there is a difference it could be measured in 1-2 seconds. It has never been 10 second or I would have been nervous about something gone wrong. I watch the OP gauge every time to make sure and every time it shoots right up to normal (IF you fill the filter like we are saying) Ten seconds is an awful long time and in my mind, given all the oil changes I have done, I can only consider it strang on your part to say such a thing. Ten seconds means theres a problem.

It makes no difference, you either have to start the boat right away, or in the spring. So even if you were right about a ten second delay, it would have to happen one way or another.

And 85, during winter lay up, the oil WILL work its way back to the sump regardless if you start it up after the oil change or not. In either case you are not starting it DRY as you have put it. There will always be residual oil on the bearings (even if the boat sat 5 years!). I know that after years of engine work. I can promise you, that you are no better off starting it before winter lay up or after.

Ok we will just be arguing in circles from here on out. Let me just finish by saying that I started turning wrenches on cars at 14 and rebuilt my first automatic transmission at 16. I have 24 years as a paid technician/ and automotive teacher. One would think I know something on the matter?

[formulaben]

This whole thread ENTIRE FORUM is about overkill and its various degrees.

Fixxered.

[Wakesetter2008]

Always change oil at the end of the season, because used oil also contains water and other residue.

The best option is to drain the oil when engine is warm/hot.

[Michigan boarder]

Hello, and welcome to page 4.

[ahopkins22LSV]

Always change oil at the end of the season, because used oil also contains water and other residue.

The best option is to drain the oil when engine is warm/hot.

If your oil contains water you have bigger issues to worry about then when you change your oil.

[oldjeep]

If your oil contains water you have bigger issues to worry about then when you change your oil.

Small amounts from.condensation

[85 Barefoot]

85, I have done way way more oil changes then I care to even admit. Boats, cars, tractors, heavy equipment, my boat, other peoples boats. If there is a difference it could be measured in 1-2 seconds. It has never been 10 second or I would have been nervous about something gone wrong. I watch the OP gauge every time to make sure and every time it shoots right up to normal (IF you fill the filter like we are saying) Ten seconds is an awful long time and in my mind, given all the oil changes I have done, I can only consider it strang on your part to say such a thing. Ten seconds means theres a problem.

It makes no difference, you either have to start the boat right away, or in the spring. So even if you were right about a ten second delay, it would have to happen one way or another.

And 85, during winter lay up, the oil WILL work its way back to the sump regardless if you start it up after the oil change or not. In either case you are not starting it DRY as you have put it. There will always be residual oil on the bearings (even if the boat sat 5 years!). I know that after years of engine work. I can promise you, that you are no better off starting it before winter lay up or after.

Ok we will just be arguing in circles from here on out. Let me just finish by saying that I started turning wrenches on cars at 14 and rebuilt my first automatic transmission at 16. I have 24 years as a paid technician/ and automotive teacher. One would think I know something on the matter?

I'm not responding because I'm questioning your background. I'm responding because you are still misunderstanding what I mean about starting "dry". I'm not at all saying that oil does not work down into the pan, layup, or not. Of course it does. IF your opinion is that its best to change oil at the end of the season and not start it to circulate it, that's fine.

[1HELLUVALIFE]

I'm not responding because I'm questioning your background. I'm responding because you are still misunderstanding what I mean about starting "dry". I'm not at all saying that oil does not work down into the pan, layup, or not. Of course it does. IF your opinion is that its best to change oil at the end of the season and not start it to circulate it, that's fine.

What is your point? I still don't understand. If you change oil and filter there will be a brief second with no pressure, regard less if you start it 10 seconds after changing oil or 10 months.

[Lance B. Johnson]

What is your point? I still don't understand. If you change oil and filter there will be a brief second with no pressure, regard less if you start it 10 seconds after changing oil or 10 months.

Exactly.

[85 Barefoot]

What is your point? I still don't understand. If you change oil and filter there will be a brief second with no pressure, regard less if you start it 10 seconds after changing oil or 10 months.

Except that there will be MORE residue on the internals 1 hour after last shutdown than 6 months. So if you know you have to run without pressure for a few seconds (I said up to 10, which I have had happen), why not do so with freshly coated parts as opposed to 6 months when most engine wear occurs at startup?

LBJ, just so we on same page, are you saying its BETTER not to start it until the spring? If not, then why so vociferous about debating it?

Edited October 14, 2015 by 85 Barefoot

[Snrizedstr]

I change mine at the beginning of next season....when am all done running the engine for winterization I add 2.5 ats of extra oil to cover the crankshaft completely.

Obviously it drains very slow in the spring before I can start it.

Edited October 15, 2015 by Snrizedstr

[Lance B. Johnson]

Except that there will be MORE residue on the internals 1 hour after last shutdown than 6 months. So if you know you have to run without pressure for a few seconds (I said up to 10, which I have had happen), why not do so with freshly coated parts as opposed to 6 months when most engine wear occurs at startup?

LBJ, just so we on same page, are you saying its BETTER not to start it until the spring? If not, then why so vociferous about debating it?

It is no better or no worse. Your logic/ reasoning isnt quite right and doesnt make sense, so I suppose I was falling into teacher mode

and its good to call BS when you see it and save everyone an extra step when changing oil.

[85 Barefoot]

It is no better or no worse. Your logic/ reasoning isnt quite right and doesnt make sense, so I suppose I was falling into teacher mode

and its good to call BS when you see it and save everyone an extra step when changing oil.

You're saying that there is as much protection "up" in the engine including rockers, cams, lifters, bearings etc. after 6 months as there is one hour? Is that what you mean by no difference? I respectfully disgaree and to each his own. Starting an engine, ANY engine, immediately following an oil change is prudent for many reasons. Hardly BS. Carry on.

Edited October 15, 2015 by 85 Barefoot

[Lance B. Johnson]

You're saying that there is as much protection "up" in the engine including rockers, cams, lifters, bearings etc. after 6 months as there is one hour? Is that what you mean by no difference? I respectfully disgaree and to each his own. Starting an engine, ANY engine, immediately following an oil change is prudent for many reasons. Hardly BS. Carry on.

Yes and if you'll note, my argument from the beginning has been that it DOES NOT take longer to build pressure providing you fill the oil filter. If you don't fill the filter it takes less then 3 seconds to build pressure. So if you wanna believe your engine a favor I suppose it does no harm.