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DaDeuce

Oil change at the end of season or beginning

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DaDeuce

So its time to start thinking about winterizing the boat. I have a question for the crew though..... I'm due for a 50 hr oil change/tune up right now. Should I go ahead and have this done now when I get it winterized or in the spring when we get her out? What do you guys normally do?

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oldjeep

There are a lot of threads on this, but I think most agree that it is better to store with new clean oil than old sometimes corrosive old oil. Now I don't start my boat after the oil change, so I'm not sure how much it actually matters in my case since the parts are still coated in the old oil.

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Wakesetter67

Yes store with Clean oil Has something to do with acid in the residue of the old that can corrode Cam bearings etc,

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Cory

I store with clean oil. End of Season: Winterize and change fluids; Beginning of Season: wax the hull

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gobble

End. Cars too.

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foiler1

end of season then you don't have to deal with it in the spring. Once I have ice out, I am too excited to do maintenance. fill her with gas and drop her in

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MLA

im an end of season kind of owner as well. This can also leave you with a turnkey boat in the spring.

Edited by MLA

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MadMan

This is one of those splitting hairs deals, it doesn't really matter. For me, I change it by the hour meter, independent of season end.

I've pulled apart engines that have been sitting for 15 years, never saw any damage from dirty oil.

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Sixball

End of season also. Put your old oil in an one gallon jug. Then in the spring or even a month or two dump it out you will have a coating of slim on the bottom. Just saying if you put nice clean oil in a oil pan that has settled sediment in it the first thing that happens is it gets your nice clean oil nice and dirty.

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Bill_AirJunky

Whenever I get around to it this winter. At some point I'll need to go have a beer or two with her......

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Fman

I'm also in the change before winterization camp, I run it for a few mins after the change to circulate fresh oil through the engine. Then I winterize the boat.

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Pnwrider

As previously stated this has been discussed a lot. I like to change oil at the end of the season during winterization process.

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Lance B. Johnson

This is one of those splitting hairs deals, it doesn't really matter. For me, I change it by the hour meter, independent of season end.

I've pulled apart engines that have been sitting for 15 years, never saw any damage from dirty oil.

Awesome someone with some common sense!

Same here. I have pulled down engines that have been sitting for many years and never noted any damage from oil/ sitting.

I don't recall who, but I remember someone on this forum changing the oil at the end of the season and then again at the beginning. There are some scary anal types around here. :lol:

Edited by Lance B. Johnson

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twitchee2

IMHO it really doesn't matter. As long as the oil is changed every 50 hours of use, change it when ever it is easiest for you. I live in So-cal, the extent of winterizing for me is putting some fuel stabilizer in the tank. I will change the oil at the beginning of next season. After speaking with a performance motor cycle engine builder (roommate's boss), he said there is no use letting fresh oil sit and not get used. He changes the oil in his boat pre-season.

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UWSkier

Our winterization goes like:

Change oil and impeller on the lift

Add stabilizer to the fuel

Go skiing a bunch

Boat on trailer but still in the water: fog engine

Back to the house

Drain engine, transmission, heater

With all drains open, pull lanyard and cycle engine with the starter

Wash, wax, remove battery, cover, cry a little bit.

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oldjeep

Mine is pretty simple, once I give up hope on the season I go out to the garage.

Change oil

Change impeller every couple years

Drain block, heater and then pour in -100 antifreeze

Battery switch should have been off already- check it.

This year - trans, drive fluids, plugs, cap rotor.

Take everything out of boat and put it in totes.

Clean everything inside and out.

Wax boat

Pull charger cord out cover vent and cover.

Plug cord in a couple times over winter - don't like having chargers running for 6 months in my attached garage.

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Fman

Awesome someone with some common sense!

Same here. I have pulled down engines that have been sitting for many years and never noted any damage from oil/ sitting.

I don't recall who, but I remember someone on this forum changing the oil at the end of the season and then again at the beginning. There are some scary anal types around here. :lol:

This is good to know, I trust your judgement seeing as you are a mechanic! I do it before winterization just so I don't have to mess with it when spring comes around.

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augie09

uggg...I have to change the oil soon.

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saxton15

I did a late season 50 hour oil change. Only put another 25 on the oil before I winterized it. I think it's good until spring.

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Lance B. Johnson

This is good to know, I trust your judgement seeing as you are a mechanic! I do it before winterization just so I don't have to mess with it when spring comes around.

And I do the same thing, I change it in the fall before winterization. But only because if we happen to get an awesome day in February (like this year) I wanna jump in and go!

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85 Barefoot

There are a lot of threads on this, but I think most agree that it is better to store with new clean oil than old sometimes corrosive old oil. Now I don't start my boat after the oil change, so I'm not sure how much it actually matters in my case since the parts are still coated in the old oil.

Respectfully, not starting the engine after the oil change is the worst scenario. If the boat sits all winter the oil on parts will drain off completely so when you start in the spring and the pump isn't primed or filter filled, you're running for at least five seconds with no present oil at all. Always start the boat immediately after an oil change so that as time passes, even if the parts "dry out" you're not starting without the system ready to lubricate.

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Lance B. Johnson

Respectfully, not starting the engine after the oil change is the worst scenario. If the boat sits all winter the oil on parts will drain off completely so when you start in the spring and the pump isn't primed or filter filled, you're running for at least five seconds with no present oil at all. Always start the boat immediately after an oil change so that as time passes, even if the parts "dry out" you're not starting without the system ready to lubricate.

Just a hunch here:

Ill bet oldjeep fills the filter with oil prior to screwing it on. The filter won't be empty.

No matter what the oil pump won't be primed in either scenario.

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85 Barefoot

Just a hunch here:

Ill bet oldjeep fills the filter with oil prior to screwing it on. The filter won't be empty.

No matter what the oil pump won't be primed in either scenario.

I bet he does too. I do, and still get a 5-10 second delay before it pressurizes (per gauge). Point is, if you warm the engine, change oil, start engine, then you still have oil residue on the parts to lubricate prior to pressure building. After several months, it won't be there. If you prime the system right away, then its primed in the spring so you're not starting bone dry.

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oldjeep

I do fill the filter, but fail to see what difference it makes if I start it right after the oil change or on 6 months.

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Lance B. Johnson

I bet he does too. I do, and still get a 5-10 second delay before it pressurizes (per gauge). Point is, if you warm the engine, change oil, start engine, then you still have oil residue on the parts to lubricate prior to pressure building. After several months, it won't be there. If you prime the system right away, then its primed in the spring so you're not starting bone dry.

Not really 85. The oil will always drain back to the sump. Its an open system and there is no way to maintain the residual pressure needed to maintain prime. An inlet check valve would be needed on the inlet side of the pump to achieve what your talking about and I have never seen and engine that had one. There would be too much danger for the check valve to become plugged.

You realize that the oil pump isn't submerged in the sump and that there is a pick up tube that carries oil to the pump. really it only takes a minute for all the oil to drain back down through the pump and down the pick up tube and into the sump.

The important part is that the gears in the oil pump maintain some coating that allows the pump to get some sort of suction asap. Even if I took apart an engine that sat for 5 years, there would be oil coating the gears.

Edited by Lance B. Johnson

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