Water from valve covers

[Ndawg12]

No way man!!! Get that thing on a garden hose and fire it up....and video it....and post it here!!!

[Woodski]

@powbmps: Great looking mill. FYI - proper marinized engine sump vents actually connect to the spark arrestor and not to a vent can or more specifically vent to the bilge. The intent is to ensure the blow by fumes are drawn in to the intake and not allowed to collect under the engine box. You should have an aluminum bar that rests on top of the spark arrestor (between the metal and the plastic cover) that allows you to connect the blow by hoses directly from the valve covers. On my Mercruiser, the relay reset panel was attached on the front right (behind the captains seat) of the engine bolted to the cylinder head. It appears that the thermostat housing check valve (rod + springs + plastic ball) setup to control flow to the exhaust manifolds from the thermostat housing is missing, I assume you simply have not installed yet. Lots of diagrams available if you simply google Mercruiser thermostat housing or cooling system diagram.

[Michigan boarder]

I say dyno! $500 of fun.

[Michigan boarder]

Now would also be a good time to install a Flush Pro or make a home made one, so that you have an easy direct water hook up via garden hose.

[powbmps]

Blow by hoses properly re-installed. I was using the catch can to collect all the water that was coming out of my valve covers on my old motor (to keep it out of the carb). The check valve was not in there when I bought the boat. I was under the impression that it wasn't necessary, but will replace the parts if it is a good idea. ***Just went ahead and ordered all the parts for $23.50 shipped.

@powbmps: Great looking mill. FYI - proper marinized engine sump vents actually connect to the spark arrestor and not to a vent can or more specifically vent to the bilge. The intent is to ensure the blow by fumes are drawn in to the intake and not allowed to collect under the engine box. You should have an aluminum bar that rests on top of the spark arrestor (between the metal and the plastic cover) that allows you to connect the blow by hoses directly from the valve covers. On my Mercruiser, the relay reset panel was attached on the front right (behind the captains seat) of the engine bolted to the cylinder head. It appears that the thermostat housing check valve (rod + springs + plastic ball) setup to control flow to the exhaust manifolds from the thermostat housing is missing, I assume you simply have not installed yet. Lots of diagrams available if you simply google Mercruiser thermostat housing or cooling system diagram.

Edited December 2, 2015 by powbmps

[powbmps]

No way man!!! Get that thing on a garden hose and fire it up....and video it....and post it here!!!

So.....to do this, other than the water supply, would I just need to hook the battery up to the starter (with a switch of course)? I can't put it back in the boat at this point.

Keeping it in the garage all winter, so I wouldn't be worried about it freezing. I am dying to start it up. Need to get some low rpm break-in hours on this thing.

Edited December 2, 2015 by powbmps

[Michigan boarder]

So.....to do this, other than the water supply, would I just need to hook the battery up to the starter (with a switch of course)? I can't put it back in the boat at this point.

Keeping it in the garage all winter, so I wouldn't be worried about it freezing. I am dying to start it up. Need to get some low rpm break-in hours on this thing.

Water supply - do you have a 1" supply and hose that you can tap into? If you are limited to a standard hose via 3/4 supply and a 5/8 hose, you will not be able to do much more than idle. Of course, you'll have to exhaust all that water out as well.

Not sure how your cannon plug would work in that set up. Can't be too hard to figure out though....you'd likely need to jump something.

Break in - I had mine done on the dyno, and they varied the throttle from low, to high, to mid, to low, all over the place. Did that for 20 minutes. Then changed the oil and it was off to the races with full dyno pulls. Heck, I gotta put it up here, it was soooo sweet. Post #284:

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/47273-michigan-boarder-engine-blueprint-and-build/page-15

[oldjeep]

I don't think you want to start it on the ground unless you have a pretty good sized motor stand that is anchored do it can't flip or walk.

[powbmps]

That motor sounds awesome. According to the instructions that came with my motor:

1. For the 1st hour, do not exceed 2000 rpm and vary rpm continuously.

2. For the 2nd hour, do not exceed 3000 rpm.

3. For the next 5 hours, do not exceed 4000 rpm.

Then there are some other rules until you reach 20 hours.

Hopefully I can figure out a way to do this in my garage over the winter. I don't know if I will have the patience once it is in the water.

Water supply - do you have a 1" supply and hose that you can tap into? If you are limited to a standard hose via 3/4 supply and a 5/8 hose, you will not be able to do much more than idle. Of course, you'll have to exhaust all that water out as well.

Not sure how your cannon plug would work in that set up. Can't be too hard to figure out though....you'd likely need to jump something.

Break in - I had mine done on the dyno, and they varied the throttle from low, to high, to mid, to low, all over the place. Did that for 20 minutes. Then changed the oil and it was off to the races with full dyno pulls. Heck, I gotta put it up here, it was soooo sweet. Post #284:

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/47273-michigan-boarder-engine-blueprint-and-build/page-15

[Woodski]

@powbmps: the Jabsco raw water pump delivers 10 GPM / 1,000 RPM linear through the RPM range so you will need a pretty decent supply and catch capacity if you plan on running the engine for any given amount of time or engine speed.

[powbmps]

Thanks for the info Woodski. No way I'll get that out of my garden hose. Is it just about having a large enough water supply to pull from, i.e., an in-ground swimming pool? You could set the motor near the edge, pump the water right out and drain it directly back in.

@powbmps: the Jabsco raw water pump delivers 10 GPM / 1,000 RPM linear through the RPM range so you will need a pretty decent supply and catch capacity if you plan on running the engine for any given amount of time or engine speed.

[powbmps]

Went with the stock Mercruiser manifolds. They sure are pretty without any rust. Weather looks nice this weekend, so the plan is to put the motor back in, hook everything up, and have it ready for spring. No water in the motor, so I have to assume it will be fine over the winter.

[oldjeep]

What kind of warranty did you get on the long block? I'd want to make sure that run testing or break-in was accomplished before it ran out.

Edited December 3, 2015 by oldjeep

[Woodski]

@powbmps: did you know which specific cylinder heads are on that mill or do you know the original engine year? Did you get a HP rating from the vendor on the engine? Did you check to verify the exhaust ports match the new engine? Looks great...

[powbmps]

12 months and unlimited hours from date of invoice (10/27/15) so theoretically I am covered. Bought it from one of the closest places I could find. Worst case I can drive down there if there are any issues.

What kind of warranty did you get on the long block? I'd want to make sure that run testing or break-in was accomplished before it ran out.

[powbmps]

Vortec Gen+ heads. Both are stamped with 13120906. Searched it up and confirmed that they are, in fact, Vortec heads. Supposedly it is in the 330 hp range. Exhaust lines up with the heads (at least the gasket lines up with both pieces).

@powbmps: did you know which specific cylinder heads are on that mill or do you know the original engine year? Did you get a HP rating from the vendor on the engine? Did you check to verify the exhaust ports match the new engine? Looks great...

[Woodski]

@powbmps: I was wondering if you got the next gen cylinder heads (post '96), looks like you did so you will see a nice power bump from them. Looks like you checked the exhaust port matching.

[powbmps]

@powbmps: I was wondering if you got the next gen cylinder heads (post '96), looks like you did so you will see a nice power bump from them. Looks like you checked the exhaust port matching.

Your reply got me thinking, so I pulled the manifolds off to take a look. The ports in the manifolds look great, but the ones in the heads left something to be desired. Uneven edges, and noticeable ridges blocking the flow. Stuffed some paper towels in to keep debris out, Dremeled the perimeters of all 8 ports and then held the Shop-Vac to them as I pulled the towels out. Then I slotted the holes in the gaskets so that I could push them up about 1/16" while I tightened the bolts. Should be good to go now.

[powbmps]

Couple of nice days so I put the motor back in. Just need to figure out the fuel pump situation and it will be good to go for Spring.

Edited December 6, 2015 by powbmps

[powbmps]

It lives!  My fuel pump wiring seems to work.  Just had to prime the pump first.

When running a new motor (with fake-a-lake), how long should it take for water to start coming out of the exhaust?

Thanks!

[oldjeep]

1 hour ago, powbmps said:

It lives!  My fuel pump wiring seems to work.  Just had to prime the pump first.

When running a new motor (with fake-a-lake), how long should it take for water to start coming out of the exhaust?

Thanks!

within a couple seconds

[powbmps]

Can't seem to embed the video....

http://vid1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd415/powbmps/Motor.mp4

Need to set the timing.

 

Edited April 16, 2016 by powbmps