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Water from valve covers


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@powbmps: P/N for the gas strut: SPD-5200-30A are the ones on my hatch and the lengths noted in the Bakes site match. The brand is SPD, the 30 is the extending pressure in lbs and the 5200 is the series. As for the handle, mine is a relatively simple vinyl loop on the front, bottom of the hatch. There are other options like the very nice machined aluminum version on the latest Prostar that looks great. If you get a chance, could you get an actual weight of your hatch? Mine tips the scales at 58#.

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It just hit me after looking at your pics again: your motor box is completely loose at all times isn't it. I don't see any hinges or hinge marks/holes in the carpet where the back of the motorbox attaches to the floor. That would explain why you need hold downs in all four corners of your motor box (I missed that earlier). The rear hold downs must be a royal pain to attach.

If this is correct, I would consider installing a good set of removable pinned hinges at the rear of the hatch.

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Edited by DIE2SURF
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Lots of good advice. I've got my work cut out for me (when the rain stops).

Looks great. All cleaning supplies that I already have as well.

They hold the engine cover down. Front port side is a bi**h to get on without losing some skin.

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So, looking at this, is your engine cover in two separate pieces? Like the attached piece would strap down to the floor, and then there is a section on top of it that is hinged? I think I've seen something like that somewhere else before.

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62 pounds. Hinged in the middle. White blocks hold it in place and bands hold it down. Would the gas strut be for raising and holding just the top half, or the whole thing?

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For that type the struts only lift the top half. Been a while since I saw a 2 piece, can't remember what I saw it on - didn't think it was a Malibu.

And the struts that were referenced would likely be too powerful, since they are made to lift the whole cover, not just the bottom portion.

Edit: not just the top portion.

Edited by Michigan boarder
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Woodski,

Is yours the two piece design as well? If not, I'm thinking (2) 20# units instead of the 30#. Don't see an option lower than that.

@powbmps: P/N for the gas strut: SPD-5200-30A are the ones on my hatch and the lengths noted in the Bakes site match. The brand is SPD, the 30 is the extending pressure in lbs and the 5200 is the series. As for the handle, mine is a relatively simple vinyl loop on the front, bottom of the hatch. There are other options like the very nice machined aluminum version on the latest Prostar that looks great. If you get a chance, could you get an actual weight of your hatch? Mine tips the scales at 58#.

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Woodski,

Is yours the two piece design as well? If not, I'm thinking (2) 20# units instead of the 30#. Don't see an option lower than that.

You could also create some kind of latch, so that when the upper lid is closed you can "lock" it down. Then if there is some upward pressure it won't matter.

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@powbmps: mine is the single piece version, looks like about 5 # lighter for total wt. I agree the two 30# struts would be a bit much for the upper half. I would get a weight on it before getting the struts. I wonder if there were ever any there. Too strong of a strut is worse than too little as it tends to really work the attachment and pull the screws loose.

The two peice version I was referring to in earlier post is on a Nautique 196 and both section pivot at the back. They both have rubber hold down straps the keep the cover secured at the front. I don't recall any struts on that cover like Malibu uses.

Edited by Woodski
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Go ahead and pull that tank so you can change the short exhaust hoses at the tips. I changed the fuel and exhaust hoses in my 1999 this spring and discovered that one of the short ones had a nice crack on the bottom. It will be easier to do while you have the rest of the exhaust system out.

And I can't think of a better way to sink a boat than having an unaccessable exhaust hose burst while under way.

By the way, I even changed the fuel filler hose since I had to remove it to get the tank out.

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Go ahead and pull that tank so you can change the short exhaust hoses at the tips. I changed the fuel and exhaust hoses in my 1999 this spring and discovered that one of the short ones had a nice crack on the bottom. It will be easier to do while you have the rest of the exhaust system out.

And I can't think of a better way to sink a boat than having an unaccessable exhaust hose burst while under way.

By the way, I even changed the fuel filler hose since I had to remove it to get the tank out.

Alright justgary, I didn't really need another project :biggrin: ....

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What a mess. The hose on the left had a split starting so some more preventative maintenance is in order.

Edited by powbmps
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Welcome to the rabbit hole!

Might as well put some STE exhaust tips on it while you are in there. Are your hoses 3.5" or 3"? I upped mine to 3.5 to get a little more flow.

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I say combine your anchor and nav lights, and slide your interior lights to the left. Then you will have 1 switch open to do something fun: EJECT, or NITROUS, or whatever.

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might want to consider any rudder maintenance since the tank is out. New packing, zerk fitting, etc. Just a thought...

Edited by DIE2SURF
  • Like 2
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Well allright!!

Did you rebuild the carb? What are your plans for a choke with the Performer intake?

I may have forgotten to mention that this is a re-manufactured 5.7 Vortec (hopefully it works out okay), bored .30 over, with new water pump and intake. I am in the process of switching the other parts over now. Amazing how much easier a marine motor is to work on compared to an automobile. Even at 20 years old, everything comes apart relatively easy.

As far as I could tell the carb was working well, so I just cleaned it up for now. Uhhhhh......I'm going to show my overall ignorance and ask what you mean about the choke. Is it a different setup with this intake?

Even out of the water, the steering was very stiff. I'm thinking that this melted area where the exhaust was resting on it wasn't helping. Bought a new cable, tightened up the helm and lubed up the steering assembly. Should help.

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Edited by powbmps
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My pre-vortec intake had the linkage that went from inside the intake to the carb, and closed the butterfly when the engine was cold. The Performer intake does not have that, so since I swapped my intake too I have no choke. I need to get an electric, or a manual cable.

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My pre-vortec intake had the linkage that went from inside the intake to the carb, and closed the butterfly when the engine was cold. The Performer intake does not have that, so since I swapped my intake too I have no choke. I need to get an electric, or a manual cable.

Okay, that makes sense. Mine has an electric choke, so no linkage in the intake.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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