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powbmps

Water from valve covers

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powbmps

Searched, but hoping for more info. 1995 350 MTS with 1,800 hours.

The bad: I am getting so much moisture from the valve cover vents that puddles form in the carburator. At one point the spotter side cylinder head cracked and was patched with JB Weld. Installed a vented catch can to keep the water out of the carb. Took the boat out for an hour yesterday and could see the water beading in the tubing. There was enough that I could slosh it around in the can after.

The good: Compression is good in all cylinders (no water present on plugs). Boat starts on the first turn of the key and seems to run great. No visible water in the oil.

I've already got the engine upgrade bug, so I will most likely be replacing the long block this winter. However, I would like to get a better understanding of what the issue could be. Any ideas?

Thanks!

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oldjeep

My guess would be that if you pull the valve cover that you will find another crack. It would have to be tiny if your oil doesn't look like a milk shake.

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powbmps

My guess would be that if you pull the valve cover that you will find another crack. It would have to be tiny if your oil doesn't look like a milk shake.

Couldn't see anything, but I didn't clean the oil off very well. New heads on a 1,800 hour block doesn't seem like the best idea (at least that's what I'm telling myself) so I'm thinking new motor over the winter.

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EchelonMike

If it has great compression, and the oil hasn't been fouled by water, I'd be darn tempted to pull the heads since there is a known crack/issue with them. A head swap is not hard on a carb engine...while yanking the whole engine is a big job.

You could upgrade heads to something more performance oriented, and when the lower end finally lets go or has an issue, buy a short block, swap over the new heads and you're back running.

-- Mike

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powbmps

Replacing the MTS with a Gen+ Vortec. Crappy picture ​of the first step. Only 7 months of winter left :cry: .

20151026_175408.jpg

Edited by powbmps

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DIE2SURF

wow...you didn't waste much time. when POWBMPS gets a bug to do something, lookout! Have fun with the build. Post pics along the way to make for an entertaining winter project for the rest of us.

(And your cherry picker certainly trumps mine.)

post-5643-0-04300200-1445952262_thumb.jp

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67King

I'm digging the hoist........

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powbmps

Here's what I have so far. Little bit of ice in there this morning. Wish the mini-excavator was mine, but a neighbor with one is almost as good.

20151027_100119.jpg20151027_100037.jpg20151027_100146.jpg

Now I just need to remember where everything goes.

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Michigan boarder

Well here we go!! That'll be fun, nice looking boat. Suggestions:

A. Clean that bilge!

B. Are your fuel lines ethanol proof?

C. Paint your engine mounts

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DIE2SURF

for a '95 with 1800 hours on it, your interior and floor look fantastic. original, or replaced?

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powbmps

Well here we go!! That'll be fun, nice looking boat. Suggestions:

A. Clean that bilge!

B. Are your fuel lines ethanol proof?

C. Paint your engine mounts

A. & C. are good suggestions. What do you mean about the fuel lines? The one in the boat has an odd "whiteness" to it.

for a '95 with 1800 hours on it, your interior and floor look fantastic. original, or replaced?

It's all original. Once I pulled the cover off, I figured I better grab it. Even with the money I'm putting into the motor, I'm still feeling good about the purchase. Don't mind the excuse to get some more power :biggrin: .

Going to sand down and repaint the gauge panel. Will lose the red pin stripe, but not much I can do about that. Ditching the depth gauge, as it doesn't work. Wondering if I can get the left speedo apart and remove the mangled white needle? Replacing a couple bulbs and cleaning the mold off the backs of the gauges. Need to troubleshoot the voltmeter and temp. gauge too. The inside of the cubby was nasty before I cleaned it out.

20151027_114559.jpg20151027_114528.jpg20151027_114305.jpg

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DIE2SURF

Very cool. What Michigan Border is talking about regarding your fuel lines is that in earlier models of boats, the fuel lines installed weren't intended for high amounts of ethanol in the fuel. The lines can break down and wreak havoc on your fuel system. Since you've gone to the trouble of pulling the engine, you ought to consider replacing your fuel lines. You've got 20 years on them at this point, and I've heard that they have a 10-year life span, but I could be wrong.

Edited by DIE2SURF

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powbmps

Very cool. What Michigan Border is talking about regarding your fuel lines is that in earlier models of boats, the fuel lines installed weren't intended for high amounts of ethanol in the fuel. The lines can break down and wreak havoc on your fuel system. Since you've gone to the trouble of pulling the engine, you ought to consider replacing your fuel lines. You've got 20 years on them at this point, and I've heard that they have a 10-year life span, but I could be wrong.

Sounds like a good idea. Shouldn't be too bad with everything else out of the boat.

Gauge panel is pretty beat.

20151027_202727.jpg

10 minutes with a palm sander and emery paper. Painting tomorrow.

20151027_205626.jpg

Edited by powbmps

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Michigan boarder

If you remove the lines you will probably have to pull the fuel tank. I did that to mine (I pulled my engine too recently) and that was a whole 'nother mess to clean. Here's what I used to scrub the bilge and everything behind/under the tank/rear seat:

post-8942-0-46589900-1399551475_thumb.jp
And here's how it turned out:
post-8942-0-01290900-1399552340_thumb.jp
post-8942-0-47456100-1399552358_thumb.jp

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Michigan boarder

Can't recall who, but there is a place that will convert your old Airguide speedo's to a GPS speedo. It looks the same as it does right now, but is GPS. I think it's $350. Part of my winter plan.

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DIE2SURF

Nautic Logic. Bozboat has and loves it. I almost bought it, but decided to drop the extra $ and just get a PerfectPass since I'm course skiing again.

www.nauticlaugic.com

Edited by DIE2SURF

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Woodski

@powbmps: There is a place that does Airguide rebuilds and the guy specializes in them. Do an Airguide search as there was a post / thread somewhere that detailed rebuilding them as they can develop a leak. One way to stop the leak potential is to swap out the direct pressure pitot tubes for the venture style ones. I did that on my boat and like them much better as they are not as weed / clogging sensitive. If I find the thread, I will shoot you a note.

Now is also the best time to replace the fuel lines, 90's generation fuel lines were not designed for ethanol laden fuels. While doing that, also check the anti siphon valve on top of the tank, I have seen some corrode and stick shut. Also, the blower hose along the exhaust pipe has most likely lost its flexibility, good time to replace. I noticed either tie wraps or some sort of band on the 4 engine box locators along the side, what are those for? I have not seem those on other similar 'Bu's.

As for Michigan Boarders comment on grunge in and around the fuel tank, very much on point. When I pulled my tank, same discovery. Good reason for it as all the bilge air is actually forced through that area prior to exiting the transom vents. Basically it ends up being the drop off point for a lot of the oil saturated air. I highly recommend pulling or giving that area a good look while access is at its easiest. If you pull the tank, I suggest you enlist some help and get it as empty as you can before lifting and particularly before setting on a gunnel, it is really tippy and weighs more than you think! Ask M-B.

One item you might want to strongly consider is a speed control system. For a non DBW boat, Perfect Pass is the gold standard and well worth the investment if you are interested in good, consistent same speed pulls from your driver. The gauge insert will occupy a hole the same size as the Airguide, which many people simply replace one speedo with the PP gauge. I redid my dash to accommodate both Airguides and the PP gauge off to the right section of the dash, I got a 4-1 gauge for the engine parameters. Accuski was another brand but they went out of business and the current standard is ZO but only applicable to newer DBW boats. Each has their strong points.

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Michigan boarder

Here's what I have so far. Little bit of ice in there this morning. Wish the mini-excavator was mine, but a neighbor with one is almost as good.

20151027_100146.jpg

Now I just need to remember where everything goes.

Looking again at this pic, you should consider removing those front mounting brackets and mounting them to the new block before you reinstall the engine. That way instead of lining up 3 small bolts on each side, you will be lining up 1 large stud on each side that the mount will slide over. Mark the current position of those large bottom nuts before you touch anything else though. That will all make your reinstall much easier.

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powbmps

Lots of good advice. I've got my work cut out for me (when the rain stops).

If you remove the lines you will probably have to pull the fuel tank. I did that to mine (I pulled my engine too recently) and that was a whole 'nother mess to clean. Here's what I used to scrub the bilge and everything behind/under the tank/rear seat:

And here's how it turned out:

Looks great. All cleaning supplies that I already have as well.

I noticed either tie wraps or some sort of band on the 4 engine box locators along the side, what are those for? I have not seem those on other similar 'Bu's.

They hold the engine cover down. Front port side is a bi**h to get on without losing some skin.

20151028_194324.jpg

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DIE2SURF

I'm having a hard time following the need for the bands to "hold down" the engine cover. Have you experienced and issue with it blowing up? During travel?

The sheer weight of my engine cover, along with the gas shocks keep the engine cover down/secure. I'm honestly interested in this...

My boat came with two sets of fixed hinges that I hate because I can't take the motor box off without unscrewing them from the floor. I've seen some boats with the pull-apart hinge, and my buddy has a sanger with the attwood (larger) hinges.

Edited by DIE2SURF

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Woodski

@powbmps: those appear to be added on, my boat does not have them and I have no issue with the box coming up. How much does your engine box weigh? If you still want a hold down, look at a CC 196 or new Prostar, they each have external tie down hooks. The CC also has a two piece box with the lower clamshell having internal hooks, except the upper half is still open so good access. Does your box have the internal gas struts? They offer some lifting resistance and then when extended, provide return resistance, which might be the force needed to avoid lifting while at speed. P/N available if needed.

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powbmps

The box is plenty heavy enough and stays in place without the bands attached, so I don't know why they are there. No gas struts and no indication that there ever were any. I would like to add some though, so a P/N would be great. Mostly to hold it open and not have it laying all the way back on the seat when open (puts a lot of stress on the hinges). Also wondering about adding a small "handle" of some sort to the front edge to make lifting the top half easier. Hard to jamb your fingers between the two.

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DIE2SURF

whao...something ain't right here. Mine (and I'm sure most everyone's) motorbox came with gas struts and a lift handle. I will see if I can find a few pics and parts for you if you like.

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oldjeep

I've often wondered why they hinge those things at all. Much nicer to just lift/roll the whole thing off and out of the way.

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