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jdiaz78

LS3 Engine Winterization 2014

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jdiaz78

I have searched the forum and the post I found with any information were for a open loop system. I have a closed cooling system on my engine. I'm having a hard time finding someone to go to my lift and do the winterization. One of the dealerships said they would go there, but didn't know about a closed system.

So with that out of the way, does anyone know a good video or step by step instructions for me to follow?

Thanks in advance.

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skyskier

Find someone who can do it and knows how. The time spent searching will be less than the time you spend learning how to do it yourself, and you will not have to buy a new engine in the spring.

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23LSVOwner

Is that a Marine power motor?

If so you might want to talk to your dealer about the flame arrester (air filter) shield. There is a bulletin for it.

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shawndoggy

I have searched the forum and the post I found with any information were for a open loop system. I have a closed cooling system on my engine. I'm having a hard time finding someone to go to my lift and do the winterization. One of the dealerships said they would go there, but didn't know about a closed system.

So with that out of the way, does anyone know a good video or step by step instructions for me to follow?

Thanks in advance.

Assuming that this is the marine power engine the marine power manual is pretty good. There's a diagram showing the drain points. almost all of the the raw water will come out when you pull the vdrive plug, and then a bit more with each exhaust manifold (port side manifold is drained by pulling the heat exchanger plug).

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EchelonMike

A dealer that can't winterize a closed cooling engine is a dealer that scares the $#@&*$^[email protected] out of me. This is like Course 101 in college...basic stuff.

Anyway, if you want to learn to DIY, there are a lot of online resources. For example, Bakes has a resource library with winterization for the LS3, which you can find by clicking here. The first half is for raw water, the second half is for closed cooling. There are also several hoses on the vdrive that have to come off as well, and if your boat has a heater option, you need to drain it at the engine. The manuals that came with your boat will show you how to properly winterize your drivetrain. Literally paint-by-numbers...not difficult at all.

I assume you want to change the engine oil and filter too. I would do this:

1. Run the engine to get the oil warm - it is easier to pump when warm vs cold.

2. I use an oil pump to suck the old oil out of the engine. Once the oil is out, I remove the oil filter and replace it.

3. Refill the engine with oil, and then re-start the engine to circulate the fresh oil thru the engine. Let it run for a minute or two.

4. With engine running I spray fogging oil into the throttle body until the motor stalls out. That coats everything nicely internally.

5. Turn the key off and then follow the water draining procedure for your specific model of engine and transmission

6. I remove the batteries and bring them home with me.

7. I typically soak a rag in some WD40 and wipe down some of the metal parts of the engine. I spray the motor mounts lightly with WD40, as well as the driveshaft, and anything that looks like bare metal. Just to fight any corrosion.

8. Make sure water that came out of the engine is removed from the bilge to prevent any damp/mold issues over the winter. I usually put one of those dehumidifier tubs of stuff in the bilge to remove any last bit of moisture from the bilge.

One last thought - there have to be a lot of boaters in the KC area. We usually have a winterization party at my house with some boating buddies. We winterize, have a few brewski's, and wax up/clean up the boats before putting them away...makes the end of the summer easier to tolerate. :-) Find some Bu guys that are experts and have them show you the ropes!

Good luck!

-- Mike

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30378

Mike, that sounds like a party I want to join!

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shawndoggy

Anyway, if you want to learn to DIY, there are a lot of online resources. For example, Bakes has a resource library with winterization for the LS3, which you can find by clicking here.

That is an indmar guide, for a raw water cooled LS3. While it's sorta helpful, Indmar and Marine Power set their boats up a little differently. Not to mention that all Marine Power LS3s are close cooled. The Marine Power manual is really the best resource. Skip to page 25

1. Run the engine to get the oil warm - it is easier to pump when warm vs cold.

2. I use an oil pump to suck the old oil out of the engine. Once the oil is out, I remove the oil filter and replace it.

The Marine Power LS3 takes 10Q. Many oil pumps won't hold that much (well... mine doesn't anyhow). Running the hose out the bottom of the boat is easy too, and you don't have to warm the boat up. Just stick the hose out the bottom (with appropriate receptacle) and let it drain overnight.

4. With engine running I spray fogging oil into the throttle body until the motor stalls out. That coats everything nicely internally.

DO NOT FOG YOUR MARINE POWER LS3 -- OR ANY CATALYTIC CONVERTER EQUIPPED BOAT -- THIS WAY UNLESS YOU HATE YOUR MONEY (will ruin your cats in short order).

Edited by shawndoggy

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