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GAMALIBU23LSV

Winterizing

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GAMALIBU23LSV

I'm a new owner of an 01 23 LSV. It has the 383 hammerhead. Im going to store it in a covered slip lifted over the water. I have no trailer and I'm getting ready to winterize it for the first time. Looking for best way to get antifreeze in the motor and tips on getting water out of everything I need to, v drive, shower and anything else. Do I need to fog? Does my boat have cats?

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wheelman

if you you use the search feature on winterizing on this site you will find all the infomation on winterizing you could ever need. Your boat should not have cats. You will also find that you do not need antifreeze if you get all the water out, but it is a preference of some people.

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SkiBumPMC

The 383 is basically a bored out 350, so I assume your 383 is basically the same as my 1999 VLX with the 350 cubic inch Indmar Monsoon 325 HP...Running a ZF Hurth Transmission (ATF) and a Walters V-Drive. From all the posts I've read, nobody removes drain plugs on the Transmission or V-Drive, as there is not much water in them. They just remove the 2 hoses on either side of the trans/v-drive.

This should be the process...

  1. Drain both manifolds - There should be 2 hoses (1 from each manifold) with a quick disconnect in the middle.
  2. Remove & Drain the hoses going to the V-Drive / Transmission. The 1st hose comes from the thru-hull on the starboard side, where water is drawn from the lake. The 2nd hose is on the port side and goes to the seawater pump, near the transom port side.
  3. Remove & Drain the starboard side seawater pump hose (The hose that comes from the seawater pump to the trans oil cooler on the starboard side)
  4. Remove & Drain the port side seawater pump hose (pull off the bottom off of the seawater pump & drain)
  5. Remove & Drain the recirculating pump hose (J hose) on the rear port side (this should be the biggest hose out of 4 hoses)
  6. Remove & Drain port side engine block plug & knock sensor - (poke around with a wire to make sure no rust blocks the flow)
  7. Remove & Drain starboard engine block plug & knock sensor - (poke around with a wire) My 1999 does not have a knock sensor on the starboard side.
  8. Reinstall all hoses & plugs
  9. Attach a hose to the starboard side transmission/v-drive inlet hose - This is the start of the cooling system near the thru-hull fitting that draws water from the lake.
  10. Get -100 Antifreeze and dump it into that hose through a big funnel.
  11. If you have 2 people, one can fog while you're dumping antifreeze in.
  12. Start engine & pour in 4 to 5 gallons of antifreeze, shut it off and you should be good to go.

***I bought a 5 gallon jug with a hose attachment so I wouldn't have to keep dumping antifreeze.

I don't have a shower, but I have a heater, which should be the same process. 1 line is attached to the starboard side engine drain plug and the other is near the J-Hose at the transom. Prior to filling with antifreeze, I removed both hoses and blew air to remove the water from the heater lines. Might want to turn on your shower and blow that line out too!

Edited by SkiBumPMC

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SkiBumPMC

Also, prior to doing all that, you might run your boat to operating temp and then change the engine oil, as well as the transmission and V-Drive fluids.

Your engine is probably 15W40 oil, your transmission is ATF (Dexron/Mercon) and your V-Drive is straight SAE 30 oil.

Check to make sure your fluids are the same, but they should be the same.

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dreerm

24MXZ 450 LS3: Wondering why it's not ok and much simpler to winterize by running the engine up to temperature (i.e. thermostat open 160deg on my LS3) with garden hose then switching (via an inline valve) to glycol until the exhaust water runs pink.

This obviously avoids all the draining, un plugging and replugging and I'm assuming that I am avoiding the risk of water being left in the block by making sure the thermostat is open/at temperature but what am I missing?

Is draining to begin with just extra precaution or is it required to ensure there is no trapped water?

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Bill_AirJunky

Because diluted anti-freeze is not nearly as effective as straight anti-freeze.

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MadMan

24MXZ 450 LS3: Wondering why it's not ok and much simpler to winterize by running the engine up to temperature (i.e. thermostat open 160deg on my LS3) with garden hose then switching (via an inline valve) to glycol until the exhaust water runs pink.

This obviously avoids all the draining, un plugging and replugging and I'm assuming that I am avoiding the risk of water being left in the block by making sure the thermostat is open/at temperature but what am I missing?

Is draining to begin with just extra precaution or is it required to ensure there is no trapped water?

Thermostat open is a relative term, sitting in the driveway idling, the thermostat is probably just barely cracked open with most of the antifreeze entering the engine just being diverted straight out the exhaust, while the water in the block is recirculated.

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Rednucleus

What about removing the thermostat and then sucking the antifreeze?

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oldjeep

What about removing the thermostat and then sucking the antifreeze?

Sounds like all sorts of fun. Draining the engine and pouring antifreeze in a couple hoses would be a whole lot faster than remove thermostat, run full of antifreeze, replace and reseal thermostat.

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