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Rambino21

Boat winterization video

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Rambino21

Hello I've got a 2001 vlx and followed this video exactly and also winterized the core heater. I live in idaho where it's not humid so I left everything disconnected rather than filling with antifreeze. Should I be good or are there any more steps I need to take? Thanks in advance guys!

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robbennett

I would think if you left all of the plugs out you would be fine. If any humidity builds in there then it should just drain out or be a frost on the walls of everything, I'd be interested to hear if anyone has had an issue with condensation causing freeze damage.

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Flyswatter

Make sure you blow all the water out of the the heater, just draining the line might not get all the water out. Also, make sure that you poke a small wire up through the block drains to make sure that there is no debris blocking the water from draining out.

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BuNewb

I might recommend putting the plugs back in after a week or so. I left mine out last year which resulted in quite a bit of rust on the threads in the spring. You could probably throw something on the threads as opposed to putting them back in.

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Rambino21

What would you put on the threads? I also blew out the core heater til there was no water coming out at all. The local boat winterization guy leaves everything undone as well. He says it's cuz there is no humidity here really in the high deserts of idaho... I just want to make sure I do everything properly. I just felt it wasn't necessary taking it in to get it done when I know I can winterize myself. Thanks again guys. The more info the better!

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Rambino21

Any more responses?

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gordon20mxz

Last year was my first year with my V-drive, so I had my dealer do my winterization on my boat lift and he basically did all of the drainage procedures in this video. I watched him because I wanted to learn how to do it. He left all the connections undone for the winter, left the clamps in a plastic bag zip-tied to the steering wheel and then in the Spring I had to have him come back to do the "summerization", hook everything back up. It's a pain to schedule meeting up with the technician and it's relatively expensive. Disconnecting and re-connecting off all of these hoses and the block plugs is a real pain in the butt.

This year I just want to run RV anti-freeze through the system like I use to do with my Ski Nautique. I worked fine with that in board engine

Basically, bring the engine up to operating temperature with a water hose to a flush adapter (or Fake a Lake) to open the thermostat. Then allow a few gallons of RV anti-freeze to be sucked in through the flush adapter (or Fake a Lake). With the engine at operating temperature, anti-freeze should get to all parts of the engine and manifolds and transmission cooler, correct?

I don't have a heater to worry about.

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saxton15

That's correct.

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isellacuras

Takes no more than 45 min to do procedures in video. Even less than 30 once you get familiar with the process.

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67King

If you don't have knock sensors, you can replaced the plugs with petcock valves, which will save a lot of time. Also, you can put a valved Y into the garden hose fittings for the exhaust mainfolds. That can save you a ton of time in future years.

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SkiBumPMC

Likewise, I followed the exact procedure on my 99 VLX with a 350 cubic inch Indmar Monsoon 325; the engine layout and components have not changed much!

As far as antifreeze, living in the Midwest, I like using it and I use -100, rather than -50 because it's only $1 more per gallon. Aside from rust protection, antifreeze keeps the seals, hoses & impeller lubed up so you won't have a "dry start" in the spring. Leaving the impeller in (dry) can burn it up on a dry start, which is why they tell you to remove it and cover it in Vaseline.

Gordon20mxz...I would suggest draining the block before just adding antifreeze to an un-drained engine, otherwise, you are just diluting the antifreeze with the water, already in the engine. In other words, your -50 antifreeze might become -30 or -20, so you don't want to dilute the antifreeze.

That said, there is no need to warm the engine prior to winterizing, unless you want to change your oil, as draining the water (as in this video) creates negative pressure because the block is empty, so a drained block will fill with antifreeze, first, because it is empty.

I drained my engine the other day, after warming it, but I also changed the oil. It started getting dark so I left all the hoses & plugs disconnected and waited until today to put everything back together and fill with antifreeze. The engine sucked in half of a 5 gallon jug before the antifreeze started coming out of the exhaust. That's because the AF was filling the engine, not just coming straight out the exhaust.

Edited by SkiBumPMC

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robbennett

Anybody just pull a plug on the top of the intake manifold and funnel in some antifreeze?

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oldjeep

Anybody just pull a plug on the top of the intake manifold and funnel in some antifreeze?

I just pull a big hose off the thermostat housing - the one that leads into the engine waterpump/block and pour it in there, also pour in through my heater core lines.

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