Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

98 Sunsetter Prop removal and repair SE Wisconsin


mtnbkr738

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone,

I have a couple small nicks on my prop. No wobble or vibration, but I want to get it cleaned up and repaired.

Question: Can I remove prop on my own? - or do I need a tool?

Question: anyone know a prop shop in SE Wisconsin? Im in Waukesha, WI.

Anyhelp is greatly appreciated!!

thx!!

Link to comment

Good idea to get your prop renovated.

Assuming you get one of the C clamp style prop pullers, read any instructions that come with it. Some users have found out the hard way that you don't just attach the clamp and start winding it up tighter until the prop pulls off - this method will likely break the puller.

Loosen the prop nut a turn or two. Leaving it in place prevents the prop from dropping to the ground when it breaks loose.

Fit the clamp and tighten it up firmly. The objective is for the clamp to apply some preload to the prop. A hammer blow to the puller near the prop hub or the puller bolt head will then provide the jolt that should see the prop break loose from the taper on the drive shaft.

Link to comment

Props Ahoy in Union Grove has always done a great job for me on my ACME prop.

People have recommended this place to me also...I grew up in the Grove. I have never used them...but have had friends that have.

Link to comment

If you are ever in the Madison area. Mike's Prop shop is great! Taken mine there a couple of times( I should have explained to my wife the water gets shallow near the shore I guess) and has been returned as near perfect as new. Always 1 week turn around and $120 or so.

Pick one up, it's a tool you need!

Link to comment

I made my own "harmonic " puller this spring. I bought 3 large nuts that fit the shaft (don't remember the size off top of my head), lined them up on

a bolt and tack welded them together. Ground down the welds and removed contraption from the bolt. I tried it once and it worked like a charm. Just

removed the prop nut and screwed this on in its place. Tapped with a hammer and my prop slid right off! It was funny 'cause my Dad was watching and I

was complaining about how hard these props are to break loose and it came off so easy. He was like "Yeah that looks real tough" Lol

The thing looks ugly but it worked well....at least the first time. Maybe just got lucky? Haven't needed to remove my prop again. :whistle: Knocking on wood

Link to comment

I've never been a fan of hammering on any part of the prop/shaft/puller. This force is transmitted directly to your v-drive bearings. You could end up brinelling them.

I agree with you there although only a moderate tap is generally required to break the prop free after the puller pre-loads the joint. The construction and strength of some pullers will have the capacity to just pull the prop free (like justgary's above - I used to have a home made one like that for my last boat) while the C-clamp type ones have been known to break if done up too tight. They're intended to provide pre-load only prior to a tap.

Conversely, I would never belt the living daylights out of the thing to just hammer the prop off. I recently pointed out the potential for brinelling with this and someone considered it rubbish because lots of people do it that way...

Link to comment

I've never been a fan of hammering on any part of the prop/shaft/puller. This force is transmitted directly to your v-drive bearings. You could end up brinelling them.

Couple thoughts.

1) since you are supposed to hit the side of the puller, the only thing that really sees and force is the strut bushings.

2) typically only need to smack it once

Link to comment

Couple thoughts.

1) since you are supposed to hit the side of the puller, the only thing that really sees and force is the strut bushings.

2) typically only need to smack it once

Thanks, oldjeep! Never realised you're supposed to hit the side of the puller - probs should read the instructions I guess...! :blush:

Edited by GreenMan
Link to comment

I have one of those infamous aluminum OJ prop pullers that break. Why on earth would you ever make any kind of puller out of aluminum? To save weight? Luckily, every time I've used it, only moderate force was required.

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...