Winterization How-To's / Step By Step

[Cayute]

Sorry if this is derailing a bit guys but I have a perko flush pro installed. My question is if I drain all the water from my engine as it shows in the video and put my antifreeze in a bucket and put a hose from my flush pro to the bottom of the bucket will the engine suck the water out of the bucket or do I need to be pumping it into the engine some how?

Thank you.

[jonredcorn]

Sorry if this is derailing a bit guys but I have a perko flush pro installed. My question is if I drain all the water from my engine as it shows in the video and put my antifreeze in a bucket and put a hose from my flush pro to the bottom of the bucket will the engine suck the water out of the bucket or do I need to be pumping it into the engine some how?

Thank you.

**Edit - I'm wrong. I'm not sure why people still use the Perko Flush Pro.

Edited September 16, 2015 by jonredcorn

[oldjeep]

Sorry if this is derailing a bit guys but I have a perko flush pro installed. My question is if I drain all the water from my engine as it shows in the video and put my antifreeze in a bucket and put a hose from my flush pro to the bottom of the bucket will the engine suck the water out of the bucket or do I need to be pumping it into the engine some how?

Thank you.

No, the flush pro requires that there be pressure from the garden hose connection, that is what moves the springloaded ball that opens the flush port and closes the boat inlet port.

[jonredcorn]

No, the flush pro requires that there be pressure from the garden hose connection, that is what moves the springloaded ball that opens the flush port and closes the boat inlet port.

Jeeeze I'm that guy spreading mis-information now. Sorry. Thanks for setting the record straight.

[3sport]

No, the flush pro requires that there be pressure from the garden hose connection, that is what moves the springloaded ball that opens the flush port and closes the boat inlet port.

Flush pro also comes with an "adapter" that you can use to hold the ball open so you can gravity feed the anti-freeze while you run the engine.

[oldjeep]

Flush pro also comes with an "adapter" that you can use to hold the ball open so you can gravity feed the anti-freeze while you run the engine.

Never seen that, anyway to make that work with the transom port that most folks use with the flush pro?

[3sport]

Never seen that, anyway to make that work with the transom port that most folks use with the flush pro?

I've never used it with the transom port, but don't know why it wouldn't work with it. Its specifically there for winterization.

[Cayute]

I just have mine underneath the rear Center seat on the intake. Like to flush the engine whenever I'm running in the river with brackish water.

I will look into this adapter. If I can't get ahold of this adapter which would be the best way to "pump" the antifreeze in?

[3sport]

The adapter should be attached to the cap on the hose connection. Little black piece. See pics

http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/sdk8/AB4BFA62-0C9B-44D5-810A-05E900811FEC_zpsrld5vlfh.png

http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/sdk8/C12A7384-7EDD-4D8A-AE0E-1352096DC159_zpseuv2dldq.png

[3sport]

You insert the adapter, attach the hose that's connected to the bucket of antifreeze and then run the engine until antifreeze is coming out the exhaust. Be sure to run your shower too if you have one.

[Cayute]

Thank you. And that will take care of the heater lines aswell?

[minnmarker]

You insert the adapter, attach the hose that's connected to the bucket of antifreeze and then run the engine until antifreeze is coming out the exhaust. Be sure to run your shower too if you have one.

It's not that easy. You have to be sure the thermostat is open (or better yet, absent). If not, none of the antifreeze will get into the block and you'll have a very bad day in the Spring when your bilge fills up with water due to a cracked block!

Flush Pro looks like a nice product - especially if you're in salt water and flushing your engine after every outing - but it really does the same thing as a simple T in the raw water line and shutting off the seacock valve.

There is no magic there. You still have to make sure all the water is out, not just get antifreeze in.

[3sport]

Yes, I assumed everything was drained first. My bad if that wasn't clear.

[Cayute]

Yes I will be draining everything first just like they do on the video at the start of this thread. Just was wondering if my flush pro would be of any use to get antifreeze in the system after it is drained. Thank you

[minnmarker]

Yes I will be draining everything first just like they do on the video at the start of this thread. Just was wondering if my flush pro would be of any use to get antifreeze in the system after it is drained. Thank you

Yes it will. Should protect lines, raw water pump, water pump, trans cooler, V drive. "Belt and suspenders" in a way. Double protected.

[SkiBumPMC]

Can we settle the T-Stat / Warm Engine controversy once and for all?

If you properly drain an engine block, manifolds and hoses as in the now infamous "Boat Winterization - Indmar Monsoon 350" video, by PPT (Performance Product Technologies) then you don't need a warm engine or the T-Stat removed to get antifreeze back "in" the engine. A properly drained engine, hot or cold, will fill with antifreeze because it's empty and there is negative pressure.

Not that I'd recommend it, but the only people who should warm their engines to open the T-Stat (or remove the T-Stat) are those who don't bother to drain the engine, first, before adding antifreeze. I see a lot of videos of people doing this, but they basically wind up with diluted antifreeze. This might not be bad if you live in Oklahoma, but in the Midwest where we can get -20 degree (or colder) cold snaps for days, that -50 antifreeze won't give you -50 protection, any more, because it's diluted.

So. I ran my engine the other day to change the engine oil and then I drained the water from everything, exactly as in the video. Again, this method would be suitable for those who don't use antifreeze, at all, as there should be no significant amount of water left that could freeze and cause damage from expansion. So, in my case, it started getting dark, so I left everything out (hoses & plugs) until today. So today, after reinstalling the plugs and hoses, I set up a 5 gallon jug full of antifreeze with a hose and then I started the engine. The water pump sucked in almost half of my 5 gallon jug into the engine before any antifreeze started coming out the exhaust and that's because the engine was filling with antifreeze.

Anyone disagree? I value any input.

Edited November 4, 2015 by SkiBumPMC

[dreerm]

Been using the -50 stuff for 20 years in NW Wisc. No problems. I warm up the engine, change the oil, then drain the raw water lines and block, remove the stat, run 4 gallons of -50 thru using muffs (I/O) or T in raw water line (inboard), and put the stat back in after. Fog engine during last gallon. Also plan to turn on shower (new for me) during last gallon or two. 40+ boat years and no freeze damage at all. Based on Crew advice, this year I'll start draining the exhaust manifolds but have never had any problems not doing that in the past.

For the old I/O pontoon I don't even bother with most of the above. Just warm up, change oil, run again till the stat opens, switch to antifreeze and let it suck in 4 gallons. Shut off and drain the block. No problems. http://www.amazon.com/Camco-65501-Yourself-Boat-Winterizer/dp/B0000AXQU2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1439233697&sr=8-1&keywords=boat+winterization+kit

-50 stuff on sale at Menards for <$3 per gallon. We use 18+ gallons every Fall for boats and out cabin.

24MXZ 450 LS3: Wondering why it's not ok and much simpler to winterize by running the engine up to temperature (i.e. thermostat open 160deg on my LS3) with garden hose then switching (via an inline valve) to glycol until the exhaust water runs pink.

This obviously avoids all the draining, un plugging and replugging and I'm assuming that I am avoiding the risk of water being left in the block by making sure the thermostat is open/at temperature but what am I missing?

Is draining to begin with just extra precaution or is it required to ensure there is no trapped water?

[minnmarker]

24MXZ 450 LS3: Wondering why it's not ok and much simpler to winterize by running the engine up to temperature (i.e. thermostat open 160deg on my LS3) with garden hose then switching (via an inline valve) to glycol until the exhaust water runs pink.

This obviously avoids all the draining, un plugging and replugging and I'm assuming that I am avoiding the risk of water being left in the block by making sure the thermostat is open/at temperature but what am I missing?

Is draining to begin with just extra precaution or is it required to ensure there is no trapped water?

Antifreeze coming out the exhaust does not mean that it has gone through the engine. Repeat. Fluid can and does go directly from the raw water pump to the exhaust manifolds. There is no way to be absolutely sure you have gotten antifreeze into the block - or not refilled it with water if you only drained the block and did not drain everything upstream - except looking at what comes out of the block drains. See below for a new method.

I slightly changed my post oil change procedure this year due to hassle of removing and replacing the stat. Instead, after rewarming the engine using a T in the raw water hose by the V drive, I removed the block plugs (plug and knock sensor) and manifold disconnect and let them drain. I immediately started the engine (still hot) and ran RV antifreeze through the system (starting at the T). Wanted to see when pink fluid started coming out of the block drains, and was prepared to remove the stat if I did not see it. Sure enough, after about 2 gallons there was pink pouring out of the block and manifold drains - so the stat was still open. Shut off the engine and got the fogging spray ready and turned on the shower. Started back up and fogged and sucked in 2 more gallons of antifreeze while fogging. End result: a fully antifreeze flushed impeller, trans cooler, engine, shower, etc. without having to pull off those stubborn hoses, remove the PITA impeller, or take the stat out. Quick and easy. I really do not like messing with the hoses or impeller housing if it's not absolutely necessary.

Now to get one of those electric oil pumps which will really save time!