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ALEDOMALIBUTEX

New Engine

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ALEDOMALIBUTEX

Well my leaky oil pan turned in to a new engine- seems the last owner had this boat out in the winter and did not know the engine block had cracked. Subsequently I purchased this boat and the crack was not visible at the time I purchased this. Now fast forward- What is the best option and are there any drawbacks to going with Re man engine? Cost between both is about 2500$ more for new. What to do- when service person was looking at the oil pan to pull engine he noticed crack. Was not running rough or did not leak out the crack, so not sure if this crack goes all the way in to the block. Any advice?

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oldjeep

Well my leaky oil pan turned in to a new engine- seems the last owner had this boat out in the winter and did not know the engine block had cracked. Subsequently I purchased this boat and the crack was not visible at the time I purchased this. Now fast forward- What is the best option and are there any drawbacks to going with Re man engine? Cost between both is about 2500$ more for new. What to do- when service person was looking at the oil pan to pull engine he noticed crack. Was not running rough or did not leak out the crack, so not sure if this crack goes all the way in to the block. Any advice?

Where are you looking at prices?

New long block - $2789

http://www.michiganmotorz.com/350ci-vortec-base-marine-engine-1996current-replacement-p-109.html

Reman - $2299

http://www.michiganmotorz.com/vortec-marine-engine-1996current-p-68.html

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robbennett

Oldjeep beat me to it haha. Reman can be good depending on who does it.

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Michigan boarder

Well my leaky oil pan turned in to a new engine- seems the last owner had this boat out in the winter and did not know the engine block had cracked. Subsequently I purchased this boat and the crack was not visible at the time I purchased this. Now fast forward- What is the best option and are there any drawbacks to going with Re man engine? Cost between both is about 2500$ more for new. What to do- when service person was looking at the oil pan to pull engine he noticed crack. Was not running rough or did not leak out the crack, so not sure if this crack goes all the way in to the block. Any advice?

Leave it and run it as is. Might last you a long time.

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oldjeep

Leave it and run it as is. Might last you a long time.

It is dumping all the oil out - previous topic.

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Woodski

A friend of mine had his block crack (outside between the freeze plugs) about 10 years ago. JB Weld the crack (did a V groove grind on crack), been fine ever since. The critical question is location of crack, if internal and potential to leak water in to oil or crankcase, replace block at a minimum, if only external and in a non stressed area, the JB Weld trick may work. Analyze carefully.

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MadMan

Can you post a picture of the crack?

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GreenMan

If you're talking about a crack in the block exterior that you can see and, as yet, is not leaking, I think you could easily live with it, particularly if yours is an open cooling system where the water jacket is not pressurised.

The worst thing that will happen is you may start to get a little water dripping into the bilge. It's not like your car where you will soon run out of coolant - you have a plentiful source under the boat.

If money is an issue and you just want to replace the oil pan for now, I think it's a reasonable option for you.

Or J B Weld it per @woodski.

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